Full interior 68 Chevelle, 3800 lb car. Car had dish stock 355 with 170 Etec heads and edelbrock 2201 rollin thunder cam. HR 234-238 almost .550 lift on a 112. Air gap, stock powerglide and converter, strange dana 60 with 3.73's. Car is a turd, won't spin tires.

I am installing nyes 406 shortblock, selling 170's replacing with afr 195 eliminators. Zero deck, 13cc dish srp piston. should be around 10.25 or so.

Goals are 500 ftlb about 450-475 hp. 5500-6000 max.

I am thinking of sticking with this cam, seems to fit this build okay. Magazines have made good power with this cam but kinda look at that like .

However i have picked out some lobes. How much do you think gains would be with different cam.
Comp cams lobes
Intake - QNI 13544 287 adv. 234@.050 .588 lift
Exhaust - QNX 13571 291 adv. 236@.050 .564 lift
108lsa 104ICL

Opinions??? Am I close here !? Thanks

 

I dont think you need a lobe that aggressive but it would do what you are looking to do. Possible go a few degs shorter with those heads

Good dual plane and 750 ish carb, well tuned it will make good steam

Do not use the eddy thunder cam

 

Carb is quick fuel ss750an DP.
Air gap intake. Dynatech 1 5/8 - 1 3/4 headers. 2 1/2 exhaust.

oh. Extreme automatics stage 2 200r4 and his 3000 stall non lockup .

 

Yeah, the heads are on the small side. Might have trouble hitting your hp goal, but the butt-dyno will be good!
I think you'll need at least that much cam to hit 450 hp, and you'll need every bit of 6000 rpm to do it.
The 200R4 and 3000 stall will really wake it up. More effect there than you'll get from the engine upgrade!

 

What is the stall speed? That will determine the cam choice, unless you are willing to change it to match the cam.

 

AFR 195s on a 400+ci small block? You should be able to hit your goals EASILY with the existing HR cam.

Agreed with above, you're still going to need a higher stall converter to launch it with authority. No need for something too slippery- 2500-2600 RPMs should be plenty with all those cubes on the street. Don't buy a "cheap" converter, though. They're one of those parts just looking at rated stall speed doesn't tell the whole story. Torque multiplication and efficiency matter A LOT. On the cheap I've used ******* Converters several times now and found them to be about the best bang/buck of any I've tried. I've even had them sent out and TESTED BY A COMPETITOR (Hughes) and they came back and said "there's not a damned thing wrong with this converter". There are, of course, many good converters available out there from other quality manufacturers.

[edit] OK, so the board's profanity filter doesn't like when I combine Red with Neck in one word. But that's actually the name of the company, not an insult. They're from down in TX and I will admit, when you call them on the phone the southern accent is a little thick. But they know how to screw together a righteous converter.

 

Agreed with Damon that the current cam and heads should work well for you. A number of articles and members and LT1 guys have hit around 500 horsepower at the crank with regular AFR heads in a 383 with the 280XFI by comp and your cam is similar but your heads flow better and you have a bigger engine. The cam I have in my 383 is slightly bigger than your current cam and I have no problem driving it on the street with my manual trans. For sure it will have an easy idle and peak before 6K and live a long time. If you have a good exhaust system and with those heads flowing so well have you considered a single pattern cam?

 

Eddy cam is abit lazy lobed. It can work but there are better choices. Idle abit smoother and make more area under curve with one of the faster lobes like lunati voodoo or comp xe or xfi