* major typos in title, start* and Turn over*
My 92 Camaro recently started having some issues with starting. We have replaced the starter and the ignition module.

Recently, now when I turn my key the power comes on but the car won't start, it doesn't even slightly attempt to start. No sound or anything. It's just not recognizing it at all. When my starter broke it still made some noise.

VATS system? Mines been dead for ages, don't even think it has a fuse in it.
Neutral safety switch?
Ignition switch?

If needed I can do a video of it later tonight and how it's reacting. After turning it 10000 times it will sometimes start. I keep wondering if something came loose when the last mechanic screwed around with my car and I found a backup lock for the plug clips on the floor. I am not familiar with what is what in this car so I don't trust myself to look for wires that aren't supposed to be loose.

 

Update profile, please. My guess is VATS. Try this. Turn the ignition to run, not start, observe the security light. Does it go off or stay on? If it goes off try to start the car, if it doesn't it's the VATS.

 

Okay i will try next time it stinks out on me! My dad mentioned trying to start it in neutral? Not sure why... what would it mean?

Im also trying a new key to see if my old key is busted.

 

you can measure the resistance on your key. The little resistor. Once you figure out what it is. You can buy a vats bypass module and install it under your dash. IIR there were only 8? Different resistance values.

 

VATS is a likely cause of this issue. You say the VATS has been dead for years? The reason for trying to start the engine in Neutral is to test the park/neutral switch. If it starts in neutral, then the park portion of the switch is damaged and it needs to be replaced.

Do you have a service manual with wiring diagrams for the car? Do you have any experience diagnosing auto electrical systems? If not, you may want to refer this to a professional. If you want to dig into this, I would start by reading the start circuit diagrams. You'll need a 12 volt test light.

A quick description of the starter circuit goes like this: The yellow starter control wire from the ignition switch goes to the VATS start enable relay under the left kick panel. The yellow wire then goes from the relay to the park neutral switch on the shifter. From the park/neutral switch, the purple wire goes to the starter.

Start your testing at the purple wire to the starter. It has to have 12 volts when the key is turned to START for the starter to operate. If it doesn't, go to the ignition switch and see if the yellow wire there has 12 volts with the key turned to START. If it does, then access the VATS relay under the driver's kick panel and look for power through the relay on both yellow wires. If no power through the relay, listen for the relay to click when the key is turned from LOCK to RUN. You can use a jumper to connect the two yellow wires at the relay together to test the rest of the start circuit. You can also test for 12 volts on the pink wire to the relay and ground on the black/yellow wire. The BLK/YEL wire is grounded by the VATS module when the key is turned to RUN, assuming the VATS module receives a valid key code. You can backprobe the BLK/YEL wire and tap it to ground with the key in RUN to see if the relay activates and the starter cranks when the key is turned to START. The diagram for this circuit in any decent service manual is pretty clear and easy to follow.

The VATS bypass resistor kit will work, only if the VATS wiring and decoder module are okay. If not, you will need a VATS bypass module to completely replace the VATS decoder. The VATS decoder controls the starter with the start enable relay and also controls the fuel injectors by providing a coded fuel enable signal to the PCM. Without that signal, the engine will crank but not run.

 

Question... Is it still possible to get a replacement vats control module or what ever parts are needed to make it function correctly again? Also this may be slight, but did you try cleaning off the pellet? Sometimes dirt can cause it to not read correctly. Also it could be worn out as well.

 

Any update? Did you get it figured out?

Edit: I fail as a technical advisor. I didn't even think to mention the battery and cables. Especially the side post terminal connections can develop high resistance. A quick check is to disconnect them, starting with the negative. Look for any discoloration. A cleaning tool for the side post battery terminals should be available cheap at your local parts store. If the cable end is corroded, clean in by soaking for several minutes in hot tap water. Best to be sure that the problem isn't just battery connections.

 

Well, no update. Car must be fixed. Thread deleted.