When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
Yes Sir, I saw that I might have to get the whole enchilada. I have no problem with that, but I want to see if I can just get the plastic. I have a replacement mirror all set to go. I old one was scratched up. Had to go.
I'm gonna try some silicone spray. See it that makes it pop back in any easier. I hope, because I want to drive it again. Yes, the mirrors are powered.
Grabbed the whole mirror from Hawks Motorsports. Was having no luck just getting the plastic. Are the motors interchangeable from side to side? I got a driver's side that I'm scarfing the plastic & mirror glass if it's pristine. Otherwise, nos glass is ready to go.
The SEM trim black is a perfect match. I Scuffed up the tabs good with a green Scotch Brite pad. Then used the self etching primer, which is black as well. See for yourself. I have to give thanks to Chris & his '89 red iroc build on Facebook for the suggestion.
Success on the 2nd attempt to remove the plastic backing & mirror from a donor assembly. The factory used 3 dollops of adhesive to mount the glass to the backing. The new replacement glass has 2 strips of tape.
Had to pirate one of the locator things from the cracked one.
New glass ready to go in after an alcohol bath is given to the plastic. Want it clean for good tape adhesion.
Thanks! I've always wanted a clean third gen and now I have one.
I'm used to restoring/working on first gen Mustangs (64-70) and I gotta say the aftermarket supprt for third gen parts is alot smaller. You can literally order every single nut/bolt/bracket/widget for those Mustangs.
Hey Boom, if you ever want to sell your '88-'90 wheels for the correct style, let me know. I will pay your price.
Thanks for the offer. I'll have to look at the correct style for 86 and see. Still learning about these cars and SBCs.
Been working on fixing a few odds and ends. I had a leak from the fuel pump. Turns out whoever installed it didn't use a gasket/RTV or anything. I cleaned it up and installed the proper gaskets. So far it seems to have fixed the leaking.
My battery is just chilling here in the corner, it also looks like a battery could go on the drivers side. Which side is correct? Either way I need to get the mounting hardware to secure it.
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/62639173@N03/, on Flickr
I had to pull the driver's valve cover off because some knobgoblin installed it upside down (Edelbrock script). Found out I have to remove the wiper motor to get the cover off. Looks pretty clean under there though. Installed a permadry gasket when I put the cover back on.
haven't posted in a while. I'm not really working on anything. ive just been driving the wheels off of it. I'm working at a location that's putting about 85 miles a day on it. 85 miles at 80mph is nice. ive known for a while that my suspension needs some love. i heard a ball joint clicking yesterday. guess that next.
Well, I finally got the driver's side mirror replaced. Before I taped the glass to the plastic, I generously applied silicone spray to the plus sign on the back of the plastic as well as the clips that it plugs into. Lined up the screw looking locators & pressed hard. Nothing. Took my finger tips & pecked it hard. Success. Then I doused the plastic face with alcohol in prep for good tape adhesion. New glass fits perfectly, like factory glass.
Custom made fit to order sunscreen for my '89 Iroc fits like a glove. Thicker than the cheap ones you can get from the parts store, that don't fit real good.
Covercraft exact fit sun shade.
Last edited by 2 birds 1 Z; 06-05-2018 at 10:25 PM.
Reason: Added picture
Got my new driveshaft for the Iroc today. Have to get the car up in the air to do the swap. Stock shaft is big time rusty, it was a northern car. While under the car, I will take an inventory on all the rusty pieces.
While looking under the car in prep for the driveshaft swap Saturday, I noticed I now have a small oil leak. Gotta try to find the source & nip it in the bud.
im making a list of mechanical things to start working on. I still haven't fixed that ball joint.. drive the thing constantly though. hard to take it apart when its moving all the time. did they make any upgraded a/c fans? mine works on all setting but it really seems like it could blow harder.
Two weeks and two (guaranteed) salvage compressors later, a manifold assembly, a high pressure switch, a low pressure line, a "retrofit kit" (for 134A conversion) annnd a new dryer with orifice tube later.....the IROC has A/C!
I spent about $260. 👍
Let my 14 yr old change distributor cap, rotor, and most of my plug wires. Saturday coming in from a cruise in the car had developed a bad miss. Wound up being a plug wire had came loose from the loom and burnt up on the exhaust manifold. My son loves being involved in working on this car. He also changed a few hydraulic lines on my tractor I was very proud of him he will be a much better mechanic than I am that's for sure.
Adjusted the choke a little on my new Sean Murphy Induction Quadrajet and drove to the parts store to get calipers for the daughters Mitsubishi Outlander.
I finally got the timing close enough to fire my 383 stroker and have it idle on its own, had to shut it down after a few seconds because its open headers currently and my cry baby neighbors were outside. started hearing a drip sound from underneath the car and noticed a bunch of coolant dripping out of the torque converter dust cover. after twenty minutes of thinking it was a freeze plug behind the flex plate and wanting to die I was able to trace it to the temp sender unit in the head, It was hand tight lol.
also noticed the trans cooler lines are leaking where they go into the trans, they're brand new braided stainless ones from summit so I'll have to check the adapter fittings. does anyone use any kind of thread sealant on these? I understand not to use them on the flared connecting but what about the pipe thread connections?
I noticed there was a tapping when I turned. it was coming from the rear of the car. it sounded like something hanging and swing back and forth and hitting the inner fender.i popped the hatch and opened the covers to see if there was something inside that was doing it. nope. climbed under it and didn't see anything. finally I pulled the inner panel out all the way and looked down into the rear quarter. it was full of water ( its been raining for weeks here). there was a small reflector floating in it. the reflector was tapping up against the quarter when I turned. I didn't see a drain hole. I got my drill out and drilled a drain and watched about 1/2 a gallon drain onto my driveway. so fixed that! im driving a lot more than I was in the last year. I think the extra miles are taking their toll on my already worn out suspension. im planning a pretty extensive suspension rebuild/ upgrade but im not sure when it will happen. hopefully before stuff starts falling off.
I went to orileys today to get a new transmission mount. I asked for one made in the U.S.A because ive read people have had issues with inferior Korean rubber. they didn't have one made in the U.S.A so im going to order on eonline
Did this over the weekend and a couple of days ago, but I finally fixed the driveline vibration! Ordered a "T-56 specific" aluminum 3.5" shaft from Midwest Chassis and had to wait a while to get it (yokes were backordered), but it was worth it. I was previously using a 4th gen aluminum shaft but it would start vibrating at 70 MPH and then buzz the car apart at 75+. Original steel one was way worse and started at lower speeds. Tried a UMI adjustable torque arm to set the pinion angle parallel with the powertrain, flipped the driveshaft a few times on the pinion yoke, tried both poly and rubber trans mounts, and none of that really helped. Trans was rebuilt for other issues and that didn't help either.
The final setup with no noticeable vibration is the new driveshaft, setting the pinion/trans angles to a "broken back" or W configuration, and going back to the rubber trans mount. I ran it up to 85 or so and I couldn't feel any driveshaft vibrations, just the preexisting wheel/tire chassis shake.
Pulled one of the heads to investigate a one cylinder low compression issue... looks like a botched valve job. The guide and/or valve stem is pretty sloppy now too. Just built this engine in April this year. I see signs of the exhaust valve to the right beginning to do the same thing.
Drive it like I stole it on my way to look at a C4. Which was junk- a no go.
That’s funny man- ditto a few weeks ago. Been gunning for a 6spd with the sawblades’n’LT1 but without the PSairbag for awhile. So ‘92/93. This got snagged right before I showed up. Anyway not the forum for this :P ...
Finally getting around to working on my car. All the panels needed replacing anyway so took them off so I could get to everything easier. Gonna have to work on a few things but not sure what yet.
05-03-2018, 07:33 PM
