Hey guys, about a year ago my car decided it didn't want to be driven anymore. It would crank and if left alone just peter out. it would also immediately die when put in gear. Now that I'm back home and have some time to work on it, the problem seems to be worse. Right when I crank it it sounds like crap and dies within 10 or so second. Stumbling and sputtering the whole time. I'll list a few things I've tried below, but if anyone has any suggestions I would greatly appreciate them.

1) Checked the fuel pressure
2) unplugged MAF sensor(I did plug it back in when that didn't work)
3) unplugged torque converter lockup(again plugged back in now)
4) removed and cleaned the Idle Control Valve (I got mixed signals on how its supposed to be reinstalled, but it didn't help at all)
5) cussed and threatened too take it to the junk yard, but she saw straight through that BS

 

 

I did, it was around 42-45

 

Any stored codes ?
Maf ? Is this your profile car 91 ?

 

Yes it is my profile car, and I have unplugged the MAF sensor to see if it would smooth out and it didn't. So I plugged it back in. I'll look into the stored codes now.

 

My car doesn't seem to be storing a code, I read somewhere that it takes around 20 seconds for it to store one. Does that mean 20 seconds of run time or just key on time after the error? If its run time then my car cannot do that in the state it is in.

 

Your car has a map not maf . The check engine light would remain on if there is a stored code. You might have a ignition issue ignition control module or pickup coil.

 

I'll check these out. Also I saw somewhere that the oil pressure switch on the back of the block can cause an issue similar to this. Anyone have any experience with this?

 

Update:

I bought a new battery because mine kept is old and kept dying. Now I can hear a faint humming noise all the time under the hood. Engine off, Key off, Key out of car. Could this be related??

I replaced the Ignition coil and it didn't fix the problem, and when i opened up the distributor cap this is what i saw





I'm no expert, but that don't look too good. What do y'all think?

 

The ops would not be related to the engine cutting out.
It’s a relay backup. They other thing you can do is ohm the injectors warm. If they are stock grey body injectors they are known for shorting our.

 

So I replaced the Ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor and now the car will idle indefinitely. However it still sounds like dogs**t and won't rev. Now I am trying to take out the distributor to replace the Coil Pickup and the dang thing won't come out. The cap is off hold down tab is off the shaft and everything. Is there something simple I am overlooking or do i just need to gorilla this guy out??

EDIT: I got it out and oh my I think i found my root cause

 

So my distributor was totally rusted to hell. Little parts were broken off and stopping the shaft from rotating. Got a new one on the way now.

 

Nasty

 

New distributor is in and the car runs better than it ever has. Man did I overcomplicate this problem. Thanks for your help!

 

Glad you found it without to much trouble.