92RS-HeritageEd

iTrader: (2)

Pulled fuel sending unit via pre-cut access panel, Removed old pump, seated new pump, connected 2-Wire power plug, checked new hoses were secure. Put assembly back, connected the 3-Wire (I think) power plug under the car. Installed battery, turned key, no FP prime heard. The pump was some NOS (POS) Off brand eBay CRAP I had on the shelf the last 6/8 months.

Do I have to splice-in the 2-wire power plug supplied w/ the new FP? Shouldn't it be "Plug N Play" with the stock 2-wire plug?

Anyone have suggestions on a replacement?

Tuned Performance

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Tuned Performance

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92RS-HeritageEd

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Tuned Performance THE GREAT... I have not checked for power at the relay cavity D of the relay a green/white stripe wire. The old pump primed & worked, just seemed weak, RPMs would surge slightly while in idle, when trying to "give it gas" you could hear the engine drawing in air but it was like the fuel pressure wasn't there... What's your thoughts?

Tuned Performance

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92RS-HeritageEd

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No helper, and when I reinstalled the old pump it now has the same freaking issue

Where's the Oil Pressure Switch? When jumpering the oil pressure switch I would just take a paper clip between black/ground and grey/pump power on the connector to the Oil Pressure Switch? That should give 12V to FP 3-Wire connector thus if the FP then primes the Oil Pressure Switch just failed?

Tuned Performance

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92RS-HeritageEd

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Thanks so much and i'll be on that in the morning. Just 1 more question for the evening, would a faulty connection at the Battery Junction Box have an impact? Isn't that where the hot wire from the 20A ECM/FP Fuse routes to? That junction box was missing and all of the hot wires that went to it were ran straight to battery.... Just a thought.

Tuned Performance

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92RS-HeritageEd

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92RS-HeritageEd

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So, I pulled the pump & assembly, cleaned contacts w/ wire brush, ensured connections both in the tank & below, reinstalled, same, No FP Prime. That's when I broke out the GMSM. Now it stated if no prime Disconnect FP Relay > Use Fused Jumper Wire to CKT120 / Grey Wire? It implies that if this doesn't produce FP Prime then there's either an Open Circuit, Faulty In-Tank Pump, or Faulty Pump Ground. So I tried, and the pump did not run when 12v was applied to the cavity w/ the grey wire.

1. Open Circuit - How & Where could this be?
2. Faulty In-Tank Pump - Can't be, the two pumps worked when connected to a spare battery outside the vehicle...
3. Faulty Pump Ground - Anyone know where the above diagram is telling me that ground is located? Is it the one @ the rear of the driver side head?

92RS-HeritageEd

iTrader: (2)

So I get off work, run outside and jack her up... what greets me... locking latch on the connector not there, wires were so burnt up or covered in crud I could't see the colors furthermore as I reached to undo the pigtail :-( I realized 1 of 3 freaking wires were burnt off!

Well seems like I'm going to need either a new FP Relay or OPS & Pigtail...

- The OPS was obviously dead or hanging on by its last wire before. Does the OPS and FP Relay actually work in tandem? I thought if the FP Relay was good the pump should prime no matter what. It starting to feel more like if the OPS pigtail is damaged then the FP circuit isn't complete or "open" shutting the fuel system off...

Any thoughts, or experiences?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

92RS-HeritageEd

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Replaced pigtail - Connected - Same (No Fuel Pump Prime)
Jumped the outter two most pins on connector - Same (No Fuel Pump Prime)

Any insight as to the suspected bulkhead connector C100 issue?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

92RS-HeritageEd

iTrader: (2)

Tuned Performance you've done it again! While it wasn't the C100 or any of the connections or wiring to the FP, you kept me on the path of power. When I was about to give up I recalled that I installed a battery junction box since mine was absent. When it was removed from the equation and all hot wires ran straight to battery the FP primed on the first try. if it isn't broken... I shouldn't try to fix it!

Thanks Tuned Performance!

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

IROCU2

Did I miss something here. What fixed the problem?

92RS-HeritageEd

iTrader: (2)

When I was about to give up I recalled that I installed a battery junction box since mine was absent. When it was removed from the equation and all hot wires ran straight to battery the FP primed on the first try. See post #16.

IROCU2

Ed,

I am having the same problem as you and I checked everything like you did. I am now at the place where my SES light do not light up when turn the key to the on not start position. I am clueless as to what I need to do. Hopefully you you and Tuned Performance can get me back up and running. I need help. Thanks.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

here is a schematic of your 86-89 tpi 1227165 ecm. The ses light gets powers from the injector fuse or gauge fuse. The ecm grounds the light to make it come on. You should backprobe pin a5 to see if there is power with the key on. If there is the ecm is bad. If not check the bulb socket connection and condition of the bulb.

IROCU2

Tuned Performance,

Thanks. I did probe the A5 pin and it did not come on. That does not means that the ECM is possible bad do it? So I guess I will have to pull the cluster to remove the light to check the socket connection correct? Thanks for all your help.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Did you have power at a5 ?
you can try to ground this pin

IROCU2

Tuned Performance,

No I did not have power when I probe the a5 pin.

IROCU2

Tune Performance

I pulled the cluster and replaced the light and it now lights up. I guess that means I have a bad ECM? If so do you recommend a rebuilt one over one brought out of the Auto parts store. Or can you recommend one for me? Thanks for all your help. At least I have a working light again.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

It lights up on its own now ?
or when grounded ?
If it only lights up when grounded the ecm would be bad or a bad ground behind the passengers side cylinder head.
Rockauto has your ecm but it’s cardone. I have heard mixed reviews on this ecm.
you might want to stay local to source one.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...searchTerm=Ecm

IROCU2

Tuned Performance

When I replaced the bulb with a new one and turned the ignition switch to the run position the new bulb lit up. My bulb in my test light went bad so I have to wait until I get another bulb to do the retest. I will let you guys know what happen. Thanks for you time helping me with this problem.

IROCU2

Tuned Performance

I finally got a chance to test the A5 pin for the ECM connector. I used my test light and it did light up when I put it in the a5 pin. However, the SES did light up.

92RS-HeritageEd

iTrader: (2)

Well, back to the drawing board. The original pump that was running after Post # 16, recapped in #19 is now on it's way out. Since the po HACKED an access panel I pulled the sending unit (again), slapped in the $10 eBay replacement pump I had laying around for about the last year or so (again) and either it's not priming (again) or isn't truly the right pump for this application. It didn't even register on the FPG, I didn't mess w/ any of the power wires like I had in post # 1... and I can feel the swear words coming.

Tried: Applying 12V directly to both pumps. The failing pump physically bumps movement wise when energized, The one I had on the shelf for a year seems like it just comes on no bump when energized...

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

Uh - get a proper pump? Like a Walbro 255 or an AEM, etc.

GD

92RS-HeritageEd

iTrader: (2)

Is that a order only pump? Didn't see at any parts store or JEGS.

The pump I assume was failing (SPECTRA P/N 5211001) had no sock filter and when I looked at the bottom where the filter would have been there's a mini screen that was F.O.S! Might try a new sock filter since I've cleaned that little screen until I can find the part number for the stock replacement or one of the fancy ones mentioned above.

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

I used a kit for a C4 vette. Much easier to find. Look up a part number for a 255 lph AEM kit. Stop using cheap parts store or stock replacement brand pumps. I put in a Deatschwerks 255 lph pump for a Vette like 4 years ago. It's a turbine style pump and virtually silent. Will support over 600 HP. And it was less than $100.

Walbro (Edelbrock sells kits with Walbro 255 pumps in them), AEM, or Deatschwerks. It's just an in-tank pump - you can make any universal pump work.

GD

92RS-HeritageEd

iTrader: (2)

Cleaned mini-screen > Replaced Sock Filter = Car started / pressure at 12psi. Since it would only drop after initial load I put it in drive and pulled to the front of the driveway, held 12psi. Backed up > removed FPG > Took a drive = No Issues.

Since the pump had a date stamp of 3/15, I will be ordering one of the better quality replacements for swap.

ownor

iTrader: (5)

Glad you got it figured out.
I always used the AC Delco EP241 TPI pump with good results for any stock or mild TBI build.

I find it's much easier to just run 12V from somewhere in the fuse box to the G terminal of the ALDL terminal (left lower corner when looking straight at it) then messing with the OPS.
I usually use my multimeter leads with the pointy probe and stick it into an open terminal that has 12V and connect the other probe into the G terminal, then switch it (and/or re-plug plus lead, usually uses different terminal on the multimeter) to current measurement mode instead of the usual voltage measurement. current measurement will produce a "short circuit" (just like a single wire would) between the leads as opposed to the voltage measurement you usually use. you can also measure current draw of the relay and pump that way and most multimeters are internally fused for 10A my TPI pump draws about 3.5 amps to give you a ballpark idea.

sounds fine to me if SES comes up on ignition on?