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Living with a failed oil ring

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Old Apr 12, 2019 | 08:47 AM
  #1  
Tootie Pang's Avatar
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Car: 1989 IROC Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI L98
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Living with a failed oil ring

So now that I've got this stock LB9 sorted and running great, the engine is oil fouling the number 2 plug. It's easy enough to swap out every two months of regular driving but I was wondering if there is anything I can do to reduce the fouling. Thicker oil, additive, special plugs, HEI, etc. Any tips or tricks. The engine is otherwise perfect. It has almost 120,000 on it.
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Old Apr 12, 2019 | 10:23 AM
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Car: 1967 Camaro, 91 z28
Engine: Lb9
Transmission: M20
Axle/Gears: J65 pbr on stock posi 10bolt
Re: Living with a failed oil ring

You can try a non-fouler
you will need to double check your plug reach and thread pitch.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...+5ba262ccc615a
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Old Apr 12, 2019 | 10:49 AM
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From: Los Angeles
Car: 1989 IROC Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI L98
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Living with a failed oil ring

Thanks. The product page says it is for running too rich. I'm wondering if this won't help with oil contamination. I'm using stock copper plugs.
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Old Apr 12, 2019 | 10:55 AM
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From: Mile High Country !!!
Car: 1967 Camaro, 91 z28
Engine: Lb9
Transmission: M20
Axle/Gears: J65 pbr on stock posi 10bolt
Re: Living with a failed oil ring

I had a 400sbc years ago. It helped with it. Extended the time I had to change the plug.
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Old Apr 12, 2019 | 01:30 PM
  #5  
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Re: Living with a failed oil ring

Stick a basic, bare bones platinum, like a basic bitch no + anything, no iridium, no titanium, no depleted uranium or splitfire garbage they try to sell you, just a regular old $2 Bosch Platinum plug. I don't care what anyone else has to say on the subject, but a platinum plug just might get you a bit more life before fouling.

Case in point, my 3.1 would load up and sputter and puke and eventually refuse to fire and flood on any other plug, more so when the weather got cold. Bosch Platinums and it'd run day in and day out for years without a plug issue. Pop in a standard plug to fit in with meathead hotrodder logic about plugs and nitrous, and on the first dead cold day, there you sit in -17 wind chill changing your plugs at the gas station because the standard plugs were fouled. Change back, good to go.

Try it, you got nothing to lose.
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Old Apr 12, 2019 | 01:59 PM
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Car: 1986 IROC Z
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi
Re: Living with a failed oil ring

Originally Posted by Tootie Pang
So now that I've got this stock LB9 sorted and running great, the engine is oil fouling the number 2 plug. It's easy enough to swap out every two months of regular driving but I was wondering if there is anything I can do to reduce the fouling. Thicker oil, additive, special plugs, HEI, etc. Any tips or tricks. The engine is otherwise perfect. It has almost 120,000 on it.
How did you diagnose a bad oil ring?

Have you checked the valve seals?
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Old Apr 12, 2019 | 02:11 PM
  #7  
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From: Portland, OR
Car: 86 Imponte Ruiner 450GT, 91 Formula
Engine: 350 Vortec, FIRST TPI, 325 RWHP
Transmission: 700R4 3000 stall.
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt Torsen 3.70
Re: Living with a failed oil ring

You could go one step hotter on the plugs to keep the junk burnt off.

Also a hotter coil and module to allow a larger gap will help keep them clean. DUI sells a coil and module for .060" gap.

GD
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Old Apr 12, 2019 | 04:33 PM
  #8  
Tootie Pang's Avatar
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From: Los Angeles
Car: 1989 IROC Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI L98
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Living with a failed oil ring

This is very helpful and giving me some things to try.

I changed the stem seals and springs about a year ago. The plug was fouling before then and still is now.

I removed the plug last week and the base of the plug was a little wet with oil (I drove it from cold start 200 feet into the garage) and it had fouled up over a few months, inside the porcelain, not around the tip.

I was told platinum will help and Iridium is even better because it is a hotter plug so it will burn off contamination better.

I already have a set of iridiums so I will probably want to use them.

Since the plug is gumming up in the base, not the tip, I'm not sure twice the gap and spark energy would help, but maybe it would... a hotter ignition burns more junk off.

I am thinking of putting a non-fouler and an iridium on just the problem cylinder and leave the stock coppers everywhere else. Does anyone think that might cause a problem?
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