If those that have removed, (or seen it done), Third Gen F body engines, both ways, could pipe in which way is easier, that would be great. I have access to a two-post lift, however ceiling hight is approx. 9 foot, so under-car work is done sitting on roller stools.

Also, leave trans or drop also(it doesn't have to come out). I am still toying with replacing my LB9 TPI 305 with some kind of SMOG passable 350.

 

I have always done mine out the top; the "traditional" way. However it is definitely possible to do it out the bottom, with an engine table and other tools of that sort that are specialized for it.

If you go out the top, my recommendation would be to leave the transmission in place. Out the bottom, take it all out together.

For a CA smog-passable 350, I would suggest a 96-2000 short block; F-body L98 heads (casting 083,or a certain other one that's essentially the same but came on marine & crate engines, whose casting # I can't recall ATM) or aftermarket with a CARB EO #; and keep the TPI. The risk of using aftermarket heads would be that it would attract scrutiny that might then include the block casting, whereas any GM heads would be unlikely to get noticed, and no one would take a 2nd look at much of anything. You could maybe paint non-stock ones in the OE color to match the block and hope to camouflage them that way I suppose. Unfortunately retaining TPI results in a severely restricted potential for performance, since it would end up basically the same as a stock L98 in that respect. The other choice would be a LSx pullout from a car such as 98-2000 F-body, which would have to be motor & trans together.

 

I've done it both ways hands down faster and easier to drop it out the bottom. Easiest way to remove the springs is to get a floor jack on the a arm between the pivot bolts and remove the 2 pivot bolts on each side. Leave the ball joint and the strut connected. To the spindle. You can the spindles stay or if you want to get them out of the way just remove the top but on the strut that way your alinement doesn't change

 

There is no wrong way. It's whatever seems easier for you. Dropping out the bottom also means disconnecting brake lines so that the k-member can be dropped down with the engine. Some people prefer to do it this way and cars like a 4th gen where the engine is under the cowl, it's the easier way.

 

If all you're doing is just taking out the engine and dropping in another engine then I would go out the top.

If you were doing an entire drivetrain swap then it's pretty nice to just roll the whole thing under fully assembled instead of assembling stuff on the car.

 

Did it from bottom as I was restoring the car. Was a bit tricky with my 4 post hoist because the K member would not clear the ramps. I built a custom wooden rack with caster wheels to solve the issue. Was very easy to install new engine. Was able to put it in with headers installed... just like factory did with OEM.
Good luck on what ever you decide

 

OP here, I have only pulled engines from the top.

It's not what's easier for me, I don't know what would be easier. I've never pulled an engine, from a 3Rd Gen F body. I do have access to a two-post lift, under a 9 foot ceiling. . I'm asking those who have done it from above and below, their opinions (and "Tips" if possible) which way they found easier.

To me, pulling accessories etc, before the lift out, is a PITA. What can be left on the engine, dropping it down? Would I need the remove the steering linkage, to drop the cradle?

 

I did remove all accessories and steering linkage. Had coil springs and a-arm removed as well. Brake lines removed also. Transmission was out as well.
it was a complete tear down since I was inspecting, cleaning, painting or changing anything that needed it.