SliceIROCZ

I must be missing something here. I am pretty sure that my starter is dead. Solenoid engages but the motor never turns. It had been turning slower and slower and now nothing. So I disconnected everything IAW the Chilton’s manual I have but it wont fit past the exhaust. Manual claims it will slide past it. Stock 5.0 TBI y-pipe
from what I can tell (it is welded to a much larger mid pipe now) is there a particular orientation I need it in or do I just pull the exhaust. I didn’t want to do that if I didn’t have to. Thanks all

henryd3

iTrader: (128)

It's way easier than you think. Heard about it on here. First disconnect all wires to starter. Then remove starter bolts and keep holding up the starter. Lower it a tad and move it toward the front of the car. Above the front facing end of the starter you will see a space above it that is open. Tilt the forward end up into that space and at the same time that will bring the nose of the starter pointing straight down in front of the Y pipe. Lower straight down and out. Reverse these steps for installation. When you've done it once suddenly it's easy!
Have fun
Henry

naf

iTrader: (7)

after you finagle it out, replace it with a smaller, more efficient starter for a 96-97 V8 Camaro.

henryd3

iTrader: (128)

So, were you able to get it out successfully?

Denis.V

According my experiencie in october 2018, it was impossible. I desconnected exhaust, but reconnect it was very difficult. Finnaly I used a jack for lift up the exhaust. My mistake was unbolt completely the exhaust. You could try unbolting a bit the exhaust (both sides), only as needed, but without separate pipes from manifolds. Ah, and be care with the connector piece of the pass. side. This extrange piece of pipe failed over my head.


Denis V.

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

Hi Denis , Please don't take this as an insult or argument , but yes indeed there IS a way .

Provided your car has the stock Y pipe , and provided that stock Y pipe hasn't been bent all to Hell by going over a curb or something , the removal involves twisting and turning the starter in just the right directions and then it drops straight out . I've done several starters on several third gens and not once have I had to unbolt the exhaust , just the Rubic's cube maneuvers and out they came

henryd3

iTrader: (128)

It's true. I have used that method described in post #2 several times with ease. Works with the smaller starters as well as the stock heavyweights. Just try it as I described and you'll see for yourself. Hoping the OP is trying this

SliceIROCZ

I was indeed able to get it out. Turns out you have to twist it 180 degrees as well as moving it forward and up. Unfortunately I had the starter tested just to be certain and it checked out fine. So it’s be reinstalled but now I still can’t get the car to start.

I turn the key and I can hear a click from inside the car but nothing happens with the starter at all. Battery holds a steady 12.69V. I’m suspecting an ignition switch failure since my accessory position doesn’t appear to work. But I’m not sure how to test it or if that is it for sure. Open to ideas.

Thanks for the replies

henryd3

iTrader: (128)

Sounds more like a weak/dying battery. Battery can still have volts but not enough amperage to turn over the starter as it should. Get a jump from a good battery or take yours out to be load tested at your part store. .You said it was turning slower and slower. Batteries most often start dying when the temperature starts either rising or the weather gets lots colder. Anything like that near you?
Happy hunting

SliceIROCZ

So I had the battery tested and it is good as well. I’m going to put it back in and try to ground the starter out with a screw driver to see what happens. I’m out of ideas and need the car running again ASAP.

Denis.V

I just replaced my exhaust. Stock pipe was modified.

Black 84 Z

Had to replace the starter on my 84 Z28 tonight. There was no way to finagle it enough to get it out without at least loosening the exhaust pipes but I have SLP headers so the pipe is likely in a different place than stock. Either way it wasn't too tough and I definitely second the suggestion of replacing it with a 4th Gen starter. Much smaller, much lighter, and starts the car much faster than the stocker. Also if you ever need to replace it, it will be able to slide out without messing with the exhaust for sure.

92RS-HeritageEd

iTrader: (2)

This post just saved my life!

henryd3

iTrader: (128)

Cool, glad to pass on good info I found on here. Lots of people have said they HAD to remove the exhaust or the solenoid to get this done
but after doing this once suddenly it seems so simple. Takes a little more arm workout for the full size starters than the minis but really not all that hard... At least with stock exhaust. Headers is a whole different area I know nothing about
Henry

mikeceli

iTrader: (2)

REVIVING THIS THREAD. I tried and tried, but could not get the stock starter out of my 1989 IROC 305 TPI AT car. I was unable to rotate it 180*, and unable to get it up into the space, near the dipstick tube. Knowing I wanted a compact replacement, I took the starter apart and removed the pieces!

I have a rebuilt , 11 tooth starter for a 1996 Impala. Will it replace my 9 tooth starter? The mounting bolt holes do match up? Thanks.

mikeceli

iTrader: (2)

I installed the replacement , reman OE style starter by removing the 3 screws that hold the solenoid on, turning the solenoid approx 30* and removing it. Slipped the starter up in place, and reinstalled the solenoid. IMO, THAT is the way to go!

thtanner

iTrader: (1)

Exactly what I did yesterday with the wife's Formula.

Still not a fun job with those old style starters, but she prefers the sound they make vs the gear reduction starter.