So, I probably caused another issue when fixing one.

'92 Firebird 305 TBI

The initial problem was that after a while of running the car, it would die and not start until it cooled down. The mechanic I usually go to, will sometimes suggest fixes that he thinks I can do before taking it to him since we have a good rapport, usually it works. In this case he told me to try replacing the ignition control module saying that the problem sounded like the one I had was getting hot and quitting then cooling and allowing the car to run. Well, today I did this, and I ended up screwing something up.

When I put the cap back on, I had set the wires off counter clockwise by 1 point on the cap. I tried to start the car 3x like this probably for 2-4 seconds each time, the car usually doesn't take time to start. When the car didn't start, I double checked the cap wiring and decided to move each wire counter clockwise by 1 point. Sure enough, got in, turned the key and it fired right up. It fired up just fine and started running, but I heard a tick and the oil pressure was at zero, not resting on the bottom like the car was off, but a firm 0 on it. I let it run probably 15 seconds like this since the car hadn't been ran in about 2 months and nothing happened. Checked the oil, which only has about 300 miles since I changed it and the level and color were good, so I tried again and the same thing.

Looking at other threads, seems the common cause of lack of oil would be a spun or bad bearing. Could I have killed a bearing trying to start the car out of order? I went back under and checked everything around what I had to mess with to replace the module and didn't see anything disconnected or out of place. Thoughts?

 

Is the ops plugged in by the distributor or sometimes located above the oil filter ?

 

It's by the filter on this car. Still plugged in.

 

It could be a bad sender or gauge best way to check if your oil pressure is zero is a aftermarket gauge for testing. For example

 

I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say that there is no way having the plug wires in the wrong order screwed up your engine's internals . While some of these cars had the fuel pump switch and gauge sending unit all in one , some of these cars actually had two sensors/switches monitoring the oil pressure , one oil pressure switch near the oil filter for the fuel pump and one oil pressure sending unit near the distributor for the gauge , are you 101% sure there isn't a oil sending unit under the distributor screwed into the block that you may have knocked off the wire from during your distributor work ?

 

Isn't 0 oil pressure pretty much normal for our cars lol...?

I agree with Brian, check your oil pressure w/proper test kit to be sure.

- Rob

 

Make sure the sending unit is fully plugged in, and also check the grounds at the back of the heads. Since you were in the vicinity of the sending unit and other wiring you most likely disturbed something.

Also check oil pressure as noted.

GD

 

Thanks guys, weather permitting, I'll take another look tomorrow and see if there isn't anything I missed while putting it back together. It would be really nice if it were that easy. Anyone have a picture or link of what I'm looking for around the distributor? I'll try and get another gauge to test too, although it's the ticking part like the lifter doesn't have any oil that scares me more than the gauge not working.

 

This sending unit (for the gauge) near the back of the distributor. I put a 90 fitting on mine so the wires would point off to the side, instead of right at the firewall.

 

Should be a 3 wire connector on a 92. A oil pressure switch and gauge sender all in one.

 

I got a text back from him, he said that it's most likely I didn't line up the oil pump drive properly. I was looking at my Haynes manual and the only thing it talks about is setting the distributor in so the timing is correct.

When I take it back out, how do I make sure that the oil part is lined up properly? It looks about as seated as the one in the picture above with just that metal ring and then the hold down piece on top of it. Which would explain the ticking sound.

I'm still going to definitely check the switch/sensor by the distributor tomorrow, but it'd be nice to know this part so I can make sure it's put back together properly.

 

The distributor wouldn’t drop down if it was the pump shaft not lining up. First bump of the engine should of lined it up.

 

Unless the dreaded oil pump drive shaft plastic collar broke in the process. Then the oil pump is not being driven at all.

 

Change the oil and have a look at what comes out and hook a gauge up. Chances are if you had 0 oil pressure you'd have heard it by now IMO. That sort of anger tends to let its self be known audibly.

 

Update:

No disconnected wires around the distributor area.

I'm pretty sure I didn't have the oil shaft key lined up when i first put it back on the other day. I took it out and re-seated it more flush than before and tightened it back down. I can also tell because the hold down hook for the distributor had a little bend up from when I must have tightened it down without it being flush.

The only thing I see now is that I couldn't get the mark on the rotor to line back up to the exact position it was when I took off the distributor this time. It definitely wouldn't sit flush if I had the rotor in the exact position that it was when I took it off this time, I must have spun that thing 4x around to see if I was missing one tooth, it doesn't seem I was.

Unfortunately I couldn't put the plug wires on and test it today, I ran out of daylight and I left the key in the run position when I put the cover on it the other day and forgot about it. I thought I just left the key inside the car. Battery is currently at Autozone now getting charged, I'll have it back tomorrow and hopefully another good update.

 

So, turns out it was the oil shaft not lined up properly. Started it up last night and boom oil pressure was perfect and no ticking from not having oil flowing.

Thanks everyone for their help.