Hey guys, I have a 90' Z/28 5.0 AT Camaro (TPI). As the title states, only after driving a mile, the engine will die if I touch the throttle. When in park it runs perfect whether the engine is hot or cold, it also runs perfect driving before hitting a mile, but after that, it goes to crap. The car has had all of the EGR system removed except the EGR valve (previous owner's doing). I feel like the car could be expecting the EGR to kick in after driving a bit and then gets nothing or maybe gets air? Maybe I need to change some things in TunerPro? It also has an engine code, 43 I believe (knock sensor code).
Recently replaced components:
Exhaust/ headers
Ignition Control Module
Knock Sensor
Injectors cleaned/tested
Fuel pump
Fuel filter
Plugs
Oil Pressure Sensor

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

 

Probably not the EGR. It's not really a "system"; just the UFO valve on top of the intake under the plenum, and a small solenoid nearby. And in any case, it doesn't "kick in" and do something that would make it do, or keep it from doing, anything of the kind.

What is your fuel pressure WHILE IT'S IN THE ACT OF SCREWING UP? That is, at the instant it dies, NOT sitting in the driveway idling. Duct-tape your FP gauge to the windshield to find out. Keeping in mind, "recently replaced" is NOT the same as "good" let alone "perfect".

Also, have you tried just replacing the coolant temp sensor? Eeeeeezyer to just swap it out that to try to troubleshoot it and figure out if whatever you find out is right or not.

 

Temp sensor is a likely candidate, I'll give that a shot.
Which coolant sensor would need to be replaced? If I recall correctly, one is just a coolant temp sending unit and the other is the one that communicates the temp to the computer. Where is each located?
I assume you are referencing the shape of the valve when you say UFO? I was scratching my head for a solid 5 minutes trying to figure out what in the crap a UFO valve is and what it stands for.

 

UFO = Unidentified Flying Object

Most of us will imagine a more or less saucer-shaped object. In your car, it's underneath the plenum, on top of the intake manifold. You'll know it when you see it. It's hard to get to; I doubt somehow, knowing humans as I do (I've been existing among them for most of one of your species' centuries now so you'd think I should have some knowledge about them by now) that since it's "hard", they probably didn't bother with it in any manner way shape form or fashion.

The coolant temp sensor is on the front of the intake, below the throttle body. The connector has 2 wires; a yellow and a black.

 

Thanks! After the 5 minutes of head scratching I remembered seeing Marvin the Martian attempting to fly off with the EGR valve when I torn down my intake to clean the injectors out.
I’ll let you know if the temp sensor works.

 

Update: put the coolant temp sensor in, problem still persists.
Any other ideas?
Might pull the ECU and make sure everything looks good in it.

 

Original injectors? Have you ohmed them while engine is warm ?
could be a ignition related issue as well . A tuneup would be a good start then maybe pu coil.

 

As mentioned in my original post, all of that has already been done.

 

Sorry only say the injectors where cleaned and tested but didn’t see if there could were breaking down.
Still have a catalytic converter on the car ?

 

What's the fuel pressure WHILE IT'S IN THE ACT OF SCREWING UP? (not, sitting idling happily in your driveway)

I'd leave the ECM alone if it was mine. They don't act like that when they go bad. Digital things mostly tend to fail digitally; that is, works / doesn't work. Not, respond to the throttle strangely.

 

I did as Sofakingdom recommended and hooked up the Fuel Pressure Gauge as it was messing up. Sure enough, the pressure was dropping like Miley Cyrus in 2014.
Here's a video of what it was doing. Somewhat difficult to see, but clearly it went to 0 FP and was bouncing tremendously.
Also, for the first time, it had the same issue while parked, not just driving. It appears to only do this when it is up to temperature.
Could this be the FPR or?
Thanks y'all

 

Ditto what SofaK said. Forget the ECM. It generally takes a bomb to hurt one.

Let engine run for 10-15 seconds and shut off. Pull off FPR vacuum line. If fuel in line, replace regulator. Otherwise, follow the tests in the attached.
My bet: bad regulator or failing pump.

But:
-Do you generally start engine while pump is priming or after it completes priming?
-Does it start up easily when cold?
-Describe starting after dying with 0 pressure.

 

Update for future reference:
I replaced the injectors with some good ole eBay ones and she runs like a champ.
issue fixed.

 

Another multec sucks thread