i pulled the first piston out of my 355 and the locating tabs on the rod bearings are pressed flat.

I just wanted to know if that is normal.

I am attaching some photos. Should I replace these bearings or leave them.

engine has about 1000 miles on it since the full rebuild.





Thanks,
Chris

 

No that is not normal.

Looks to me like they spun.

Yes, replace them.

 

I should probably check the main bearings too...

man I wanted to get this back together this week

Thanks,
Chris

 

What do the crank journals look like?

 

crank looks good and rod looks good.

I measured the crank journal and it is 2.08" so I should need a +.020 bearing set, correct?

thanks,
Chris

 

Theoretically, yes. but please post pictures. Something is not right here.
Measure the mains bore, the rods bore, and the mains & rods journals.

 

i ordered some new bearings. I think the problem was that i didn't get the correct bearings last time. I plasti-guaged them so the thickness was correct. but the diameter is not. there is about a 1/8" gap between the ends of the bearings. I think this contributed to the failure.

thanks,
Chris

 

IDK how, but you should consider yourself lucky that this engine ran for even 1 mile.

 

That's basically ... impossible. You'd have to have a small-journal 327 crank or rods for some other kind of motor for that to happen. Or of course the wrong bearings.

They're supposed to be a "crush" fit into the cap. That's what retains them. Without that, you get ... what you got.

2,100" is the nominal dia for a 350 rod journal, so yes, +.020" would be correct. 2.225" is the inner dia of the rod. Measure it to be sure. Clevite bearing part # should have 663 in it.

 

 

I think they sent me the wrong bearings. It was my first time assembling an engine by myself, so I didn't notice.

 

 

It's hard to believe the oil pressure wasn't going all over the place and it ran for 1,000 miles without marring up some rod journals on the crank or the bearing surface of the rods. I think if I were you, I would take the crank and rods to a decent machine shop and get them to measure everything - it would be worth it for peace of mind if I were you.

I saw the other thread you started about having issues with the lifter plungers and a bent push rod. With the statement of assembling your first engine, it makes me wonder if you tightened the rocker arms until you couldn't spin the pushrod then went a 1/4 turn. I've seen folks do this before, but usually it results in most of the pushrods bent as they typically tighten more than a 1/4 turn on their first build. Zero lash on a hydraulic is "zero" without the plunger being depressed - the pushrods will spin freely but have no up and down movement. Just wanted to make sure you were good on this before reassembly.

 

Yup, wrong bearings. What was the part #? How are the mains?

 

i will be checking the mains later today.

these are cb745hd .010

I find references to them being made for chevy sb and ford ...

this motor ran good and never knocked, but it was some oil...

I am re-ringing it too. I have an old mechanic that lives across the street. I showed him, and he said I was really lucky to not have any damage

thanks,
Chris

 

No idea what that's for.

No idea how ANYBODY can look up bearings for a Chevy 350 and come up with the wrong thing. That person needs to seek a new career, perhaps in the sanitation engineering or fossa excavation industries.

 

I'd say ^^^^that's your problem.

 

SMALL Journal SBC .010" under
You better check the main bearings. They could also be for the small journal crank.
Just so you know, small journal cranks were used from 1955-1968.

 

I am going to check them, but I am pretty sure the mains were correct.

Thanks,
Chris

 

You need to inspect (measure) the rod bore for wear as well, yes?

 

Without actually seeing the rod bores, and with the bearing inserts spinning in them for 1000 miles, I would think that there would be damage.
I can't believe the inserts were not spit out.