Just as the title states. Looking to do 3/8 ARP rocker studs. Do I need to spend the extra bucks on the ARP ones or are the Comp/Manley/someone else okay? Not looking for the cheapest price just a good value.

 

Good rockers come with. My Scorpion rockers included them.

GD

 

ARP studs have a flat top so the locks hold better

 

Yeah, that's the studs I'm getting. Just want to know if the ARP poly locks are worth 50% more cost than a set of Comp or Manleys.My current rocker studs probably came with the World SR heads and are definitely not flat.

I have Comp 1.5s already that came with the engine. PO seemed to have wallered out the allen screw on more than a few of these cranking on them so I want to replace them.

 

Long as you don't get cheap speedmaster(procomp) , any should work fine. I've had nuts loosen when using cheap studs because the poly lock set screw doesn't have good contact on the top of the rocker arm stud. I used some Pioneer 850008 with 1.6 stamped rockers on ARP studs NP. I got a pile of brand new comp 7/16 poly locks cause I use stud girdles with the extended lock type. ARP makes good stuff, do you need their locks prob not. I'd buy a lot of other stuff before ARP 3/8 nuts, like chromoly pushrods or 7/16 studs and rockers.

 

Heck if you measure the allen setscrew you could just get new setscrews https://www.mcmaster.com/ Might be able to find just the set screws from comp cams even but kinda doubt it, they prob want to sell you the entire poly lock.

 

Sounds like somebody didn't know how to tighten Polylocks.

The way to tighten them is, leave the nut just slightly looser than where you want it to end up; tighten the set screw with the Allen; then tighten the nut and set screw together, with a box wrench and the Allen at the same time. Maybe just 15° of tightening like that, if that; it doesn't take much. That gets them MUCH tighter than it's possible to do by just reefing on the set screw. Gotta be careful with that though; it's possible to get them SO tight that it'll break the top of the Polylock off at the bottom of the set screw.

I don't think Comp ordinarily sells just the set screws but they might if you call them. Unfortunately a set of Polylocks is like $40 - 50 so hopefully they will.

 

Ended up going baller and got this setup:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-134-7101

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-300-8243

Spent a few bucks extra on the poly locks but they should be quality.

 

sofa,i seem to be a bit lost.for the life of me ,i cant make a new thread and hate hijacking other peoples threads.anyway, this is slightly related and your word is always intelligence based.a quick question,i just pulled a cam out of a 1988 tpi 350(5.7) its a cast core and has 4714YK and 1080R stamped on one end,im in the process of doing a cam swap but would like to i.d this cam if possible and dont have v-blocks and an indicator,etc at homer(im on holidays atm)





also says WF ?

 

1986, thank you for the kind words and vote of confidence, and I wish I could help you; but I don't know whose marks those are or what they mean. I know lots of marks but ... not those.

Measure across the flanks with a mic, and the height of the lobe; both int & exh; and I'll try to guess.

 

thanks anyway!!

general disorder figured it out as a sealed power cs1080r roller cam its around 0.460 int/0.470 exh ,good for a mild 350,was in a tuned port 350.