I have a 88 gta
1 piece rms
I stripped one of the back corners oil pan bolt
I even put a longer one in and still strips it leaks pretty bad
I want to helicoil it
do I need a end tap
What size and pitch is the bolt
it's the thicker on
1/2" socket moves it
ty

 

½" head = 5/16 bolt

It's "standard" thread. The size name is 5/16"-18.

No need for a "bottoming" tap. Do, however, drill the hole all the way to the bottom, to get rid of all traces of threads: when you install a Heli-coil, its thread almost certainly won't line up with the old ones (since you drill the hole smooth and then the HC tap starts wherever it grabs) and any remains of the old threads will munge the threads on the end of the bolt.

 

great ty
I'm gonna go buy a kit tomm
I nay need to get a drill bit extension to get a straight drill bit
ty tho

 

They make long bits. Try www.mcmaster.com

 

Aircraft drills should work, but you'll need to know the tap drill size specified for the thread insert, not the size for the bolt.

 

Is it ok to drill the oil pan and gasket hole bigger
I'm doing this upside down and oil pan and everything still there
has anyone done it without wrecking the oil pan lip and ripping the gasket
ty ??

 

Is it ok to drill the oil pan and gasket hole bigger
I'm doing this upside down and oil pan and everything still there
has anyone done it without wrecking the oil pan lip and ripping the gasket
ty ??

 

is it ok to drill the oil pan and gasket bigger without wrecking the lip the oil pan is installed on

 

come on now

 

IMO no.

Heli-Coil. Get it at yer local parts store. Get a long bit from McMaster-Carr. You'll have your whole block put back together RIGHT (not that a "block" is an important part of an engine or anything) and in fact better than new.

 

read my thread
I'm saying I already got a heli cill set
I am asking you if it's ok to drill up through my oil pan and gasket
and tap it
will it ruin my new steel oil pan
and will it ruin my gasket
it's a 21/64 drill bit
I'm doing the rear main seal area
if you can't help
be nice I'm being real
I'm not doing it untill some one says it's ok

 

If the oil pan bolt adjacent to the rear main cap is being addressed because of a potential leak, enlarging the hole in the pan bolt flange and enlarging the hole in the pan gasket isn't going to help that.

The ledge at the rear of a typical SBC iron block is about 0.400" thick, and the rear pan bolts are threaded into through-holes, not blind holes. A bottoming tap is not necessary.

If there is difficulty getting a tap drill for a thread insert into position to drill a suitable hole, imagine what will be necessary to get the tap into position to tap a straight hole. Then imagine what will be necessary to get the insertion tool into the hole, as well as the break-off for the thread insert coil drive tang.

If there is sufficient space around the oil pan, exhaust, transmission/flywheel, and other obstructions, installation of an insert should be a breeze.

 

Gotcha, sorry. I couldn't tell what the context of "drill bigger" in your post was.

Yes I think it's OK. 21/64" is only 1/64" bigger than 5/16". Not likely to cause a problem.

To Vader's point about the tap, that will take a certain amount of finesse, to assure that it goes up in there straight. I'd recommend finding the 12-point socket that fits it the best, and using a ¼" ratchet and some extensions to drive it. Probably will be about a 7mm but I can't recall for sure.

 

great ty you both
I'm gonna do it Tuesday
I'll let you know how it goes
ty for the advice
I will be very careful
straight drilling and steady and slow

 

And wear safety glases...

 

I did fix it
ty for the info

 

Good work. I hope it went well. More importanly, did that solve the pan sealing issue?

 

it sure did
instantly
now I'm trying to readjust the lifters
and failing
I need help to

 

There's been a lot written about valve adjustment here. And opinions will vary quite a bit.

I like this article, but it is by no means definitive. This is also the method Steve Brule' from Westech Performance Group uses on Engine Masters.

The whole thing is good IMO, but the Turning Wrenches portion probably has what you are looking for. I'd still recommend reading the whole thing.

https://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-s...ience-changed/

 

Please decribe your valve train, including the cam specs. This can have a substantial effect on proper rocker adjustment.

 

Warm up engine fully
Remove valve covers
Start engine
One at a time, back them off until they just barely start to clack, then tighten them until they stop
Do all 16 this way as fast as possible
Shut engine off
Add your desired preload; I recommend one half turn unless there's some good reason to use some other value
Reinstall valve covers
Drive to quarter car wash and clean up the mess

 

Just like adjusting the rockers on my old mechanical cam slant 6. If you have some old sheets or something to cover the inner fenders, etc., it helps. Just keep it away from the exhaust.

 

I get you buy I have aluminum roller rockers and it's got bolts and lock torqs screw for everry one
it's a pain in the ***
I have to 1 by 1

 

Doesn't matter. Do it the same way. I like to us a box end wrench on the nut and a ratchet on the Allen. Only difference is, for the last little bit of tightening the lock screw, tighten it and the nut together. But don't get too aggressive with that, it's possible to split the nut if you put too much mustard on it.