Hello, Hoping I can get some advice. I own a 1988 iroc z28 5.7 liter engine. The car only has 7,330 original miles. I had to have spine surgery back in 2010. That left me with permanent nerve damage. The surgeon drilled thew my never I then had another one in 2013 and could not correct the damage. Anyway as a result my car has set since 2010. without being started. The engine is locked up. I had my son and law try to free up the engine with no luck. I would appreciate it very much if someone could help me out by telling me the best way to free up the engine. I would be so grateful for the help. Going to try my best to work on it if I can. I wish I could have gotten it on a show like garage squad to do the work that I can't do myself now lol. Thanks for the help.

 

Pull the spark plugs, put atf down the holes. You have two options for rotation; remove the crank pulley and install an engine turning tool and use a breaker bar. Or, use a pry bar on the flex plate.

You should also evacuate the old fuel, and pop the valve covers so you can whack the valves with a soft faced hammer to make sure they aren't stuck. The injectors may have died from sitting for so long, but you won't find that out until it's time to start.

 

What he said. Put the atf in some type of squirt container, squirt oil can or something that you can squirt it to the upper most part of the pistons. Let sit for a day and try and repeat.

 

Except for the surgeries, I recently had a similar experience. Another difference is that engines had not been started since 2002. It was 30+ antique tractors in an estate. Some moved, some were locked, and some had partial problems. 501 cubic inches in two cylinders can put up a pretty good struggle.

Fuel is likely the least of the problems. Getting lubricant into cylinders as advised previously is a good plan. Remove ALL the spark plugs and leave them out. Fill each cylinder with low viscosity oil. Allow some time for the oil to seep past the rings. The sump will get overfilled but that's also not a concern initially, and may actually be a benefit.

Do not use the balancer mounting bolt to attempt to turn the engine. A crank snout socket as Komet suggested is probably going to be the easiest method to free it up and turn it in both directions. Slight motion in either direction to get the crank to move would be a good beginning. Once there is motion, refill the cylinders with oil as necessary and keep moving the crank a few degrees in both directions. The turning effort should decrease as the rings begin to free. It will take some time and work to eventually get the assembly turned a full two revolutions in each direction. Once that can be done, it could be safe to attempt cranking the engine with the starter and a fully charged battery.

If the engine can eventually be cranked by starter for several revolutions, the rest of the work of dumping he engine oil and filter and cleaning the fuel system can begin.

 

WHEN YOU GET TO THE POINT OF USING THE STARTER TO CRANK, HAVE THE SPARK PLUGS OUT!

 

I guess someone needed to clarify that, even though I assumed that was a "given" when cranking and engine with oil filled chambers. It might also be prudent to mention that disabling the fuel pump during that process would be a good idea.

 

Worth typing TWICE! We do not want out 3RDGEN Buddy "Hydro-Locking " his engine, bending rods ! Thanks for quoting me, "Vader"!

 

I have had great success with this.

 

I want to thank you guys for all the help. My son in law that is supposed to be a mechanic. Just turned the crankshaft by placing the breaker bar on the nut. He did not remove the sparkplugs the transmission was left in park. I have a new fuel pump because the old one no longer works. I thought the main thing would be to free the engine first. So I am going to buy the crank snout socket. Will I need to remove the nut and pulley in order to use the tool? For lubricant, I should use automatic trans fluid? I also have Marvel mystery oil. Thanks again for all the help guys,

 

Breaker bar on the nut is dangerous because you risk snapping it off. Not very dangerous if you know the engine is turning normally, but this is the situation where the socket is ideal.

There are 3 bolts on the face of the pulley and the one large one in the center. I had to pull all of them to get the crank pulley off, then you can put the socket on easily. ATF will work, MMO will work, CRC Knock'er Loose is good, you can even use all of them if you want. The point is to get fairly light viscosity oils with a bit of cleaning agent in the bores, whatever causes slip is going to be what you want.

 

So, , , , , what am I missing here, , if the Son in law was able to turn the crankshaft by placing the breaker bar on the nut, then it ain't "locked up".....

 

Sorry, I should have said he tried to turn the crankshaft by placing the breaker bar on the nut, Was unable to get it to turn. Thanks so much, @Komet I appreciate the help. So it would be ok to leave the trans in park?

 

Yeah you can leave the trans in park.

 

Thanks again. Will let you know how it goes. I just need to order the crank snout socket.

 

Anyone have a part / item number for the crank snout socket? Photo?

 

Proform Parts Crank Turning Socket Chevy Small Block Each | eBay
Small Block Chevy Crank Socket for Degree Wheel (speedwaymotors.com)

 

Thanks, "T" !