Got it sorted, IOEC method.
thanks for the info.
. .

 

No. Just, no. Not least because the valves are NOT at "min lift" when the piston is at TDC. Their min lift occurs somewhere COMPLETELY else. You shouldn't use the timing mark for anything AT ALL in this process because it's just wRong. Butt that's not even the worst of it.

All that about "timing mark" and "tie wrap" and "tape measure" and all the rest of that is just ALTOGETHER too much like work (sorry for the foul 4-letter word, in case it makes it past the forum's obscenity filter). In fact I'd go so far as to say it even IS work.

To find a valve's "heel", i.e. the point where you want to adjust it at, simply observe the same valve 4 cyls away from it in the firing order, to be at PEAK lift. So for example, to adjust the #1 intake, set the engine to #6 intake peak lift.

1 <–> 6
8 <–> 5
4 <–> 7
3 <–> 2

Too eeeezzzzzy.

You'll find that NO valve's "min lift" is correlated with TDC of ANY piston, least of all its own.

Then, once you've done that one, turn the crank EXACTLY 90° and adjust the same type valve on the next cyl in the order. So if you just did #1 intake, turn it 90° and do #8 intake, then 90° and do #4 intake, and so on.

Then, as you get around to the last couple of intakes, start watching exhausts, and see which one is about to come to peak lift as you finish the intakes. For example if you're doing the #2 intake last, then either #1 or #8 exh (prob #8... #1 will probably already have peaked and started closing at that point) will be reaching full open next, depending on the cam details. Set it to its peak and adjust the one opposite it in the firing order. For example if it was #8 at its peak, you''ll adjust #5 exh, then 90° and adjust #7 exh, and so on.

When finishing with each one, leave the lash just a tiny bit loose (like, only slight drag on the feeler gauge); tighten the set screw with your Allen while holding the nut with your box-end 5/8"; then tighten the nut and the Allen BOTH TOGETHER slightly (emphasis on SLIGHTLY) to lock them in place. I'd say, no more than 10° or so, is sufficient; that will tighten the Allen up about 10 times as tight as you can get it with an Allen wrench. If you get too carried away though, you'll split the nut at the point in the threads that the lock screw reaches.

And pleeezzze for the sake of the glory of the gods, DON'T do all that "work" you posted up there.

 

I set mine with one rotation of the crankshaft. Turn the crank to TDC. Doesn't matter if it's #1 or #6 as long as you know which cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke.

Adjust half the valves then rotate the engine until it's at TDC again on the opposite cylinder and adjust the other half.

Done!

 

That "Chilton's" method is barely even accurate enough for a stock hydraulic cam in a dealer shop and a flat-rater trying to maximize his billing. Definitely not accurate enough for even a moderate racing hydraulic. NO WAY it's "good enough" for ANY kind of a solid. Hell, it won't even set a Xler slant-6 up right.

 

ok will do.. its a bit intimidating at first,, but EOIC will be done.. 1 then 8 then 4, 3,6,5etc etc.

good stuff,,

 

ok got it.
the dude that showed me said he is a national record holder circle track demon but i did hear banjos for a minute.
the job isnt hard i just found..

 

I like to use the opposite cylinder method described above. That EOIC is pretty good for a first adjustment on new parts but not a sure thing sometimes. Also, the valves don't tighten up in a SB V8 so you shouldn't have to loosen any. Just get it at the point of most clearance and adjust. Kind of odd to see that .016" on both intake and exhaust seems like.

 

I also use the companion cylinder method. The other method misses the mark quite a bit because the lobes on most of the cam are not on the actual base circle, albehit you could probably get away with it on a stock cam with stock lifters because of the stock lifters travel.

 

I double checked the cam card it said 0.016 intake 0.016 exhaust, i dont it cold, engine sounds great, started easy but on a drive around the street here i hear a rattly rocker at 2500rpm. i will go over it again and double check it.

i have a good engine guy but it will cost $500 to get it on a flat bed truck and taken there and back. car is not registered yet and if caught driving it could cost me $1500

 

This is the "Chilton's" method. It's pathetic, inaccurate, and worthless. Almost sometimes "good enough" for jamming a stock hydraulic truck cammed motor out the door within book time for a customer that only lets his laborers use the poor suffering truck for schlepping bricks and whatnot around his construction site jobs, and that's just about it. No one on this forum in his right mind should ever even consider it without laughing.

EOIC is something else. It's not as absolutely accurate as the one I posted, butt is at least usually "OK enough"; butt since it's ACTUALLY MORE w... wo... [pppppuuuuuuuuuukkkkkkkkke] work... [sorry, slowly recovering from the violent nauseous reaction] as the other, it's not really a shortcut to anything.

It relies on the fact that at the point at which the intake valve is on its "heel" - directly opposite, 180° away from, the intake max open point, which is at roughly halfway through the intake stroke; i.e., roughly halfway through the power stroke - the exhaust valve is just about to open, which it does just as the piston reaches BDC at the end of the power stroke and beginning of the exhaust stroke. Given this, you can adjust the intake valve on any given cylinder just as, or actually slightly before, the exhaust begins to open ("exhaust opening", aka EO). Similarly, the exhaust is on its "heel" - directly opposite, 180° away from, the exhaust max open point, which is at roughly halfway through the exhaust stroke; i.e., roughly halfway through the compression stroke, shortly after the intake closes - which is referred to as "intake closing" or IC.

EOIC.

Once you find the first instance of these events for each valve type, you can run through the firing order and do the other 7 every 90° of crank rotation, as above, rather than watching every single valve for its motion. That's hopelessly inefficient.

Butt since those points only "approximate" the right spot, they're not as "perfect" as the method I posted before. Good enough usually; however for those of us who prefer EFFORTLESS PERFECTION EVERY TIME WITH NO ERROR, the method I posted before is preferred. DIRECTLY OBSERVE the actual operating point on the cam lobe - max lift - instead of approximately inferring it indirectly by the approximate motion of some other engine part. There's no substitute for going directly to the source.

In no case is the "Chilton's" method good enough for ANYBODY doing ANYTHING, except a flat-rater under the whip trying to maximize billable hours so the greedy SM gets his full ill-begotten bonus and doesn't start assigning him suspension jobs that are IMPOSSIBLE to beat book time on and get him all dirty besides.

"Rattly rocker" after running for awhile is usually due to insufficient tightening of the PolyLock. You tried to tighten the lock screw with the Allen, but didn't turn the nut and the lock screw TOGETHER, did you.