Hey y’all I was wondering if I could get some help with my ‘89 Formula 305. For some time now, I’ve had this issue where the bird stalls without warning. Maybe the occasional rumble before it dies, but it’ll drop in oil pressure and completely cut out. It’s not overheating, but I’ve noticed that it likes to happen when the engine reaches regular running temp.

I went about changing the ICM, fuel pump, starter, alternator and a few other things until I got stumped and gave it to my car guy. He claims he changed the distributor assembly (plugs and cap) along with the ignition rotor but the car ended up WORSE, stalling sooner and such. If I stall, I gotta give it 20 minutes to cool down before I can reach another few miles down the road. Anybody else come across something like this? It’s killing me seeing this thing sit.

 

What engine does it have? Yeah, 305; butt is it TPI, or TBI?

 

TBI.

 

Ohm check the coil and injs.

if it's a china distributor, it could be worse that the original.

 

For a 89 TBI 305 the GM manual shows an oil pressure switch ( top rear of block to drivers side of distributor) that needs to see 4 psi or higher oil pressure to turn on fuel pump relay. Your post stated you see a loss of oil pressure and then the engine cuts out. So either there is a low oil pressure concern when the engine gets to operating temp, a problem with the oil pressure switch or fuel pump relay circuit. See attached from the manual.

 

^That's not quite how it works.

There IS an oil pressure switch, but you completely left out (though the text in the pic does cover this: ) the fact that there is also a fuel pump relay that is the primary power source for the fuel pump. The oil pressure sw is a back-up/redundancy power supply to the pump....not a safety.

Also, this is the same for almost all, if not all GM EFI engines from '82 > at least the mid '90's. It's not just a "305 TBI" thing.

Now, It's possible that the fuel pump relay has failed, and the engine is only running on the oil pressure switch (thought the OP didn't mention extended crank time during start-ups)....but not likely.

What the OP needs to do FIRST, is identify what goes missing when the car dies and won't start; fuel or spark. OP? Which is it?

 

Thanks for the clarification on my post. I threw it out there since OP stated that oil pressure drops out then the engine quits running.

 

Yep, I got you. I saw that...it's not clear (and it would help if the OP could clarify) if it's losing oil pressure, then dying....or dying and then of course the oil pressure drops when the engine isn't running. If it's actually losing pressure first...then stalling, then the OP has much got much bigger problems than the stalling part.

OP?

 

I wish the OP had answered you, so I'd like to hijack this dead thread if that's ok. I'm now chasing a similar problem with my 86 T/A 305 TPI car.

I'll state why I'm in the FPOP area after the following history recap.

I've restored a lot of things on this old engine including: rebuilt HEI distributor, pulling computers, exhaust manifold leak;shaved, intake manifold-upper/lower, fuel injection rebuild, water pump, timing chain and gears, dropping oil pan and starter to do that, , half a dozen sensors and/rotten connectors that crumbled in my fingers from age while testing them, ignition starter switch, power brake booster, and reading an 8 inch thick service manual. Not in that order of course and many other restoration items, cleaning up things as I go.

Now it runs great, starts better than it has since I bought it in 1990. Many trouble free years till about 5 years ago, and it just got old.

One day I filled it up for a nice test drive, and it stalled on deceleration; slow down to idle, stalled. Went around a corner, slowed down, stalled; hairy.
I fixed that I believed with the IAC connector and one valve. Brake booster got RR-d in there too. Lot's of trouble tree shooting, but it is intermittent now and section B:intermittents don't really apply except for the engine grounds, which seem fine. Anyway, it was fine.

Then another stall problem arose (or the same one I don't know for sure; just more chronic). Stalls in the driveway idling, revving, any rpm really.

I went back through the Distributor and double checked the ICM, pick-up coil, even found the four wire harness connector (don't ask how I found that). All fine. I eventually got it centered after re-stabbing so many times that now I can time it without hitting the plenum : ) Got good at that, turned the oil pump till she lined up. Went through and replaced dodgy relays with high contact resistance and was careful to get correct ones for FP, MAF sensor and MAF burn-off. MAF is new, as I buggered the screen on the old one which was still fine. (Unhook the MAF connector, and it still stalls.)

Timing is dead-on at 6 degrees btdc. Runs fine, lots of power, revs fine; even power brakes; no shudders. Ready to drive. Stalls at random. 10 seconds, 5 minutes, 20-30, no pattern. (Now I have to fix a radiator heater hose bib that I must have leaned on, cuz it leaks when approaching fan-on temp, so trouble-shooting time is limited for now. Sigh.

I've watched the computer lines for ICM reference signal and ohmed out the four-wire many times. It runs without the 4 wire, which tells me it's not the pick-up coil, as the computer takes over without the ref signal when you do that. Checked engine grounds with DVM continuity and voltage drop testing. Less than or equal to 0.1 ohms and less 0.1 voltage drops, as far as meter allows for accuracy.

Back to the Fuel Pump Oil Pressure circuit. This seems to be the only other thing than the crank ref signal from dist, that would tell the computer to just shut off the engine like you turned off the key. The thing is, it works. I cleaned the contacts on FP relay for fun, and it ran for 30 minutes; another false positive.
The next day it stalled again. Did I mention it's usually a hot day when things seem to work. Seems like it, but I've been fooled by this intermittent over and over now.

Last night I pulled the FP relay out completely to see if it would start. It didn't. Cranked far past the oil pressure threshold. So it MUST be the switch right?
Came back ten minutes later and it started right up! And it ran till I had to shut it off!

The FP relay should run the car, reading between the lines of a million half-*** descriptions in the Service Manual, and pulling it out would put the load solely on the switch, until maybe the switch sends a signal to the computer that there is not enough oil pressure, of which it has plenty according to the gauge. The 86 has a gauge pressure sender, AND an OPS both.

I am about to change the OPS just because. Maybe THAT is the intermittent in this whole scenario. I'm familiar with the Senior Member's advice on here, been reading and learning this car for 5 years now and value their insight. Oh, my "scanner" is kinda useless, and can't afford another as I wasted money on an Ac***n which talks to ECM about 5% of the time, but the only codes I could ever get was a 42 when it died, and before shutting key off and paper clipping the aldl.

Ask me some questions please, as I have done a lot more testing with the tools I do have. I am an old electronics tech with a limited attention span now, so it's hard to follow the relay logic in the schematics; are relay contacts shown activated, or in engine-off state for example. Circuit descriptions in the 86 manual are not comprehensive to say the least.

If you think I should start a new thread, I am going to try to do that next. Thanks, John

 

Electrical wiring diagram contacts are most always shown in an unenergized or shelf state.

Code 42 seems to be a short or open on the EST circuit as identified here in this 1988 service manual..


On my engine which is the 2.8L MPI I had a fuel pump relay failure that was caused by carboned and pitted contacts, which made the engine stumble and sometimes hard to start. Because the fuel pump contacts failed it placed all of the load on the oil pressure switch contact which was slowly failing. I swapped out the oil pressure switch which helped but replacing the fuel pump relay as well allowed for quicker starting and fixed the stumble.
I suppose what you need to do is get a fuel pressure tester and watch the gage as your engine stumbles and quits. This will allow you to determine it your problem is fuel or ignition related.

On a side note does anyone know how I can resize pictures so that they are easier to read? I've tried but have had no luck.

 

x

 

Thanks,
I've replaced both relay and recently the switch, thanks. It's been awhile since I did fuel pressure test when it stalled, but if I remember it was good pressure right up to the stall, then only a glitch in pressure, but no real drop in pressure, and no engine stumble at all. Just like turning off the ignition.
Thanks again on the charts, pretty much the same as mine, and 42 hasn't come up since I dressed the plug wires. I have a spare ICM (cheap closeout) and may replace it with some super lube thermal paste. (Not the suspiciously dielectric looking grease that Echlin gave me.) I'm still not convinced that stuff didn't wreck the new ICM in there now. When I rebuilt the dist I used some thermal paste from a computer store on the original 39 year Delco icm. Both parts have been tested, but not warm, so they may switch, but not under load at speed.
I've run through that chart, and it seemed correct, but remember this thing is a random intermittent; I've thought I'd found the culprit 50 times, only to find out it wasn't. I've ohmed out ckts 423/424 watched a solid ref pulse on 430 and voltage drop test on the ground (dist body).

I was thinking along the lines of your fuel pump relay fix and that's why I replaced the switch just hoping that same thing as the relay seemed flakey on the unused contact which made me not trust the whole relay. No dice though. Thanks

I just finished some voltage drop tests from bat + to engine grounds, generator grounding, and grounds at the ECM inputs. All less than .1 volt drop.
johnster

 

Since you have TPI have you replaced the fuel filter under the car?

 

Yes. Twice.

 

Could it be possible that the resistance pellet is loose in your key and the VATS system is shutting it down? The VATS system shut down will also require about 10 minutes before the car is able to start again.
Is there a security indicator on your dash when this happens and if not, do a lamp check to make sure the security lamp is not simply burnt out?

 

No vats in a 1986 T/A. Besides, the car starts up fine after the key off / key on sequence. The security system (an old Clifford) is merely a starter interrupt circuit; I looked into that, and even called Clifford, and they assured me they didn't let it start up in the first place in those old alarms. Thanks though

 

Does your code reader have a data record function? If it does, hook it up and keep triggering a recording until the engine quits, and then review the data to see if anything shows up.
You might also catch the error code(s) doing this.


My Actron CP9690 has this function but you have to trigger a new data record each time the buffer fills up.

 

I can't get my 9690 to communicate with my 86 1227165 ECM more that 1% of the time. Occasionally I can get a code dump (no codes stored) or a datastream.
How did you get yours to talk?
I even ordered a Moates and an ALDLDroid app on a chromebook, picked the most likely .adx file, and it still won't talk.
btw, I didn't start this thread as I said above, and am looking into the distributor again as well as ground voltage drops. I have rebuilt the dist with a pickup coil and ICM and 4 wire harness. It is like I am losing the reference signal, and it just shuts off. It doesn't slow or stumble, just turns off.

Please see the other thread I have started: 'Engines shuts off; is it Fuel Pump (oil) Pressure Switch?' to see all other discussions. Thanks Toon86

 

On my CP9690 for manual engine selection for Pre 1995 in the 1986 Pontiac year, your 305 TPI is available as a 5.0L PFI selection. Is that how your CP9690 unit is configured?

I also acquired a 12 pin cable and used WinALDL software to communicate with my car, but that software didn't show the correct error codes for the problem I was having.
The one good thing that WinALDL software had was a large memory on my laptop which allowed for a almost unending data record function.
The WinALDL software didn't have to be constantly triggered to start a new 66 second file which is pretty short on the CP9690. You will have to keep retriggering the CP9690 to catch the engine when it quits.

 

Yes, mine is configured as the F-body 5.0 PFI (ported fuel injection)
Then it goes to the "connect the cables and cycle the key/off key/on" message and keeps saying "Link Error, cycle the key" message forever.
It just never syncs up. Well, almost never. But I can do it all day, and it won't ever receive data.
What kind of computer do you have? Mine is the notorious 1227165. Rock auto offers the 19367537 , but is never available anymore. Not even a price. I'd buy one, but you can't get them anymore, unless for 500 bucks on eBay. Everything is drying up out there.

 

According to the scan tool my prom chip is a 4411 but the ALDL software describes the ECM type as a 1227747.

Have you cleaned the ALDL connector socket to make sure the contacts are clean and conducting well. They get dirty over the years.
Getting back to your stalling issue, have you ruled out a bad ignition switch?

 

Hi, I have been following this thread and have a few questions.
1. When you turn the key on does the amber/yellow check engine light come on and stay on until the engine is started?
2. If so with the key on and engine off will it blink out codes by jumping pins a & b in the diagnostic connector (two upper right when looking at in from drivers seat) together (paper clip works fine). If it flashes 1 and then 2 (code12) and keeps repeating then no codes stored. This also shows this circuit is good to the ecm.
3. Is the 8th digit of your VIN a “F”?
4. Has any programming been done to the memcal in the ecm?
thanks, Don

 

To Toon86

Contacts are clean and have been ohmed out back to ECM connector at less than 0.1 ohms.

Yes, I even replaced the ignition switch last year due to flakey resistance values measured from battery to ECM power from the switch. Solid now. (I was sure that should fix it, but it didn't.)

 

Thanks Don.
1) Yes, SES (otherwise known as check engine light) works fine and is not burned out. Comes on while starting, goes out when start is complete, comes back on when stalled, as it should.

2) Correct. Flashes code 12 when shorting pins A and B. Other codes have been seen when forced on by following troubleshooting charts, and clears when condition is cleared. I have also put a 10K resistor in there ahead of the Actron Scanner via GM pin E adaptor ahead of the GM cable itself.

As mentioned before in this or my other thread (that should supersede this hijacked thread) is a code 42 ghost that was remedied by dressing plug wires, maybe. I haven't seen that since, but it could come back; that's why I am thinking about redoing the dist yet again. The pickup coil was replaced and ICM as well as 4 wire harness. I see no reason to replace the distributor; not sloppy or worn. The gear is on correctly with the dimple facing the rotor side. See previous notes in my own thread, which we should all stick with:
"Engines shuts off; is it Fuel Pump (oil) Pressure Switch?" - in the TPI forum of Third Generation F-Body Message Boards.

3) Yes. This is an F-body car. 305 FI TPI w/AC and AT.

4) Completely stock; ie no programming has ever been done to this car. I have owned it since 1990, second owner, and it is completely stock. No mods whatsoever.

 

John I do not need a 10K Ohm resister for my Actron code reader to communicate with my car.

 

Cool, thank you. It didn't seem to help but a couple of times. The Actron should supply the 10k in the GM cable itself. A direct short on pins A and B will only burp out the codes as I think I understand it. I've read a lot of discussions on my computer being finicky with the comm port. The old dealer snap-on bricks were the only reliable interface for that computer. I wish I could just upgrade the ECM, but they are scarce all of a sudden , in the last year. I have a spare, but it does the same thing.

 

10k modes starts data flow, doesn’t have anything to do with ses flashing . I have over a dozen of the 1227165 and eBay is full of them not that scarce. The 1227165 is hard to connect to with older binary files but winaldl seems to work. Not as easy as tuner pro rt to understand data but it works. Yes the mr2500 seems to connect well and so does otc pathfinder.

 

Not scarce, but expensive. Last one I bought from Summit over 2 years ago was 125 plus core 60. I kept my old one, so 185. eBay they are around 499 now, like overnight; as soon as Cardone supply slowed or stopped. They are all unavailable on Rockauto, with an option to notify via email when they are. Also around 150 2 years ago. They go so fast though when a notification does come, that by the time I get there they are gone, so I can never even see a price.

I went with the Moates ALDLU1 and CABL1 and ALDLDroid. I picked the A20 .adx data stream file in the settings, and tried the 5 other variations of the 165 ECM and LB9 engines, all 9600 and it still won't talk. I can't find one in their selections that specifically mentions 160 baud though.

The full .adx is labeled "A020-LB6-LB9-1985-1989-9600.adx" My car is an 86 LB9 engine.
"auto connect to ECU" is on as well.
I even turned off "checksum validation" and "hardware acceleration" cuz they said it might help.

I searched online for a 160 baud version to try, but can't find any sources for .adx files.

Tried with 2 different Chromebooks w and w/out a USB C to A converter and a phone with all the above variations.
I'm not a programmer and don't have the tools, although I was around that world as a tech in the 80s and 90s, when we burned/erased proms for embedded systems computers, but never went into it as a hobby in the car world. I am a pretty good shade-tree mechanic, self-taught by necessity.

Putting all that together now is too much for my acquired life-deficits, it is just too much now : ) I really didn't bargain for this primitive first run technology to stop me dead like it has.
I was a fair electronics engineering tech and software qa eng later (high level only, not a coder), so I understand troubleshooting and am still getting my chops back as far as intermittent problems.

I do have another avenue to explore; I have a nagging power draw that I haven't explained yet with fuse pulling and watching current with a clamp-meter around the neg bat cable.

I have an old Clifford alarm starter interrupter type. I'm going to check that for any parasitic current draw, and any other bugs it might throw into the mix and cause a power glitch that would upset the computer in any way, like resetting it for instance. Then I can cross that off the list of possible intermittents.

 

I’m not familiar with aldldroid, does it detect your cable ?

 

Yes it appears to. If I turn on the key, and plug in the cable it launches ALDLDroid.

Your question spurred me on to try to keep looking for another .adx file. Some exist in TunerPro's download bin defs page, but every one that would seem to describe my engine, ECM and year are given as adS files. I wouldn't know how to go about editing a file to convert it to an adx file that would work in droid. I've just painted myself into a corner by not buying a PC and using tunerpro in the first place. I was led to believe it would work, and it does on most engine/ECM combinations and demos online. Just not mine.

 

Their website is vague, basically saying if you have a adx your set.

 

Yep.
I'm going to try talking with Mr. Moates and/or the droid people someday when I'm a little more versed on the subject. Maybe we can get a file "compiled". I just hope there's no handshaking needs to be done, but I don't think that comm port works both ways; just spews out a constant datastream; and all we have to catch it and pour it into the right buckets. Cheers

 

Not much support for 32 and 32b @tequilaboy might have some adx insight or could talk to mark Mansur .

 

'kay

 

ALDLdroid can be a bit funky. I have had better luck using my own adx files instead of those included with ALDLdroid.

1986 $32 is a special case. These can be harder to connect with than either $32B or $6E. There were a few changes made to the serial data initialization routine in the later masks that help with connecting at 8192 baud. I have adapted a few $32 bins (specifically for 86 Corvette 4+3 cars) to include these changes, but haven't had many takers and I haven't received much feedback either. It works based on my limited testing, but kind of a dead end with little demand.

I've never tried using ALDLdroid with a $32 bin, so can't say for sure that it will work. DataCat does seem to work well with 1986 $32 bins, but I've never been able to make TunerPro work without the changes described above unless connecting first via DataCat than switching to TunerPro which is kind of pointless.

The simplest route for an 86 f-body or auto trans car (in general) is likely moving to an 87-88 $32B or 89 $6E bin in order to make it easier to log data with little compromise.

I will look into editing one of my adx files for you. My ALDLdroid-specific adx file has some signals with non-standard scaling and I also use a modified data stream in the bin, so some of the data won't make much sense with a stock bin without some edits first.

 

Thanks for all that information Patrick, im
not sure his bin but have had good luck updating aum to $6e.

 

Hi guys, thanks for looking at this with me. I'm in the background educating myself just to be able to follow the conversation, haha.
I understand we are talking about definition files that allow the interface to talk and stream data into the proper spots for the stream to be presented in the app(s) per se.
I get it to the point of needing the .adx file to import to droid, but creating that file is beyond my scope, and can't thank you enough for looking at this. I know a lot of 86 bird owners must still be out there, and the discussions seem to bear that out.

Found an old thread where Craig Moates throws in, you might get a kick out of in the meantime. (I can barely follow it, but here it is:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...w-connect.html

I'm still here. Thanks again, John

 

Here's an adx based on my ALDLdroid adx if you wish to try it. I used a wired connection with an old samsung galaxy tab 2. Checksum verification should be enabled. I have had some issues due to rfi with the wired connection that would cause ALDLdroid to crash. It seemed to be stable with checksum verification, but I think I only used it for static testing in the driveway. Its been a few years.

I don't have a running car so I cannot test this adx. Suggest debug logging and check the debug log text file to see what is going on with the connection. $32 datastream is the same as $32B and essentially the same as $6E (except for 2 bytes and a few odd bitmask items). See pdf.

Good luck.

 

[Thank you TB, I have to figure out how to unzip a file on a Chromebook, but I see there are ways to do it with 3rd party software and other hoops, but I'll get it there.
I'm excited to give it a try. (Gonna be hot here for a few days, good time for indoor work!)]

Edit: Wait, it seems to have done it for me. I downloaded it into a folder, double clicked on it and a sub-folder came up with the .adx file in it. Weird, but welcome Chromebook action.

 

Something just popped into my head from years and years ago with my 89 formula 350. It would randomly die and i delt with this for several months.
one day i was under the car with key on engine off. I happened to bump a fusible link on starter. Noticed some things clicking an buzzing when I'd moved the wires.
Did a continuity/ wiggle test on them all and found a bad one. A few yrs later i found a 91 with same issue, it was killing power to part of fuse box.
maybe a quick test on those will help

 

Thanks TTOP, I'll take a look at that. I'll put an ohmmeter on 'em and pull a bit. I'll look at schematics tonight and see where they go.

I was going to get under there and look at the starter wire and try to chase down how they put in an old Clifford alarm that's acting weird lately too. Won't cause a stall, but I need to find where they put the crank-wire interrupt relay, cuz I can't find it under the dash by the ignition switch where it should be. I need to take that thing out, and there is not word one of that model in anyone's manual library. It's causing a current draw that's getting worse. No model # either; just says, 'CliffAlarm AT Advanced Technology'. It's an oddball.

 

Hello again, I have a really dumb question.
When I opened the .adx file, it was a text file showing all the parameter definitions ( I think I worded that right). Isn't it supposed to be all binary or hex values i.e. machine code?
The reason I ask, is it doesn't do anything, so I opened it and it was all text. Am I doing something wrong? Should I have extracted the zip file with another program first? It imported into aldldroid and showed up as your galaxy file, and I selected it, but still no datastream.
Thanks, John

 

I extracted the adx file from my local zip and opened it with TunerPro RT. Everything looks fine to me, just like it did before zipping. Maybe somebody else can confirm and test it with either TunerPro or ALDLdroid.

Like I mentioned earlier, 1986 $32 bins are problematic, so it may never connect with an 86 bin file in the ecm.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by TTOP350

Something just popped into my head from years and years ago with my 89 formula 350. It would randomly die and i dealt with this for several months.

Problem Solved:
Final update

Thanks to TTOP350 I was working with the fusible links. I had rerouted some draping plug wires away from the links in case of induced EMI into the ECM link. Seemed to help a little, but still stalled, maybe a little less often. Progress.

So then I tested the links by trying to find test points back through the ignition switch. Grounds are fine, so why not suspect the power right? (No end-to-end probe access on the link itself.)

Testing the links, I was especially concerned with the ECM power link. I 'ohmed' from the starter side to the next test point that I could put the probe on at splice 200 I think it was. The link was good. 0.0 ohms.

Then I found some varying resistance at the fuse block test point (ECM fuse), after it goes through the ignition switch when switching the key on and off (battery cable disconnected of course). I ended up taking the switch connectors off and douching them with an electronic cleaner and letting it dry. Somehow it got WAY worse, stalling immediately and throwing an unrelated BS code 15. I took them off again and pushed the spade connectors toward the connector wipes on the mating connector. That fixed that problem and code disappeared, but it still stalled. I then squirted inside the switch and left it overnight.

BTW, I replaced that switch some time ago because of wild resistance swings with the old switch. It fixed the resistance problem at the time, but not the stall.

The switch was made by Rocstra, the only one available back then for tilt wheel with an automatic transmission. Anyway, not the switch.
I stared at schematics, service manual tips for intermittents and the wall for awhile, and was pretty sure what it wasn’t by now.

So I went back to the 'EMI from plug wires' idea again, this time on the bat/tach side of the distributor, and the harnesses on the firewall where the plug wires make their way down the firewall to the lower wire comb off the head. I got them away from the firewall and the harness that had the Bat and Tach wires (and who knows what else), and dressed them so they were not cross-talking as best I could; lengths aren't what they should be. BIG improvement right away. But I got one stall after about 20 minutes. Dang.

I chose this time to replace my (unrepairable) radiator that sprung a leak at the top heater hose. Funkily, the stall increased just a little bit. That’s when I noticed the clamp on the MAF was askew. I pulled all that out (again), ancient warped plastic from ‘86, to rearrange and fix the clamp. The equally ancient O-ring inside broke, and I had to silicone it (black RTV). I also gave the connector a good clean with an electronic switch/contact cleaner.

Voila, no more stalling. Ran it up to temp, got the bubbles out of the new radiator and it just ran and ran for around a half hour or so. I put the steering column back up, and then ran it for a long time. Started and stopped about half a dozen times and not one stall. Fan comes on about 220 or so and cools back down as normal, and that was after running in the driveway for about 45 minutes off and on. Ran it up to temp and checked the timing. It was off too, which is weird, but not really.

The next day I was able to drive to a gas station and fill-er-up for the first time in a year. I put the ECM and dash back together. Then a buddy came over and we went on a long test drive, 25 or 30 miles, up and down Skyline Blvd, back down to cruise a super highway, stopped, had dinner, and started it back up and drove home. Never skipped a beat.

I’ve got a new O-ring on the way with the help of an impressively helpful Amazon robot after I gave my year car and the Delphi MAF I have, and the dimensions I measured; 80mm x 2.5 mm thick.

Thanks to all with the ‘Computer Comms 160 baud $32 / $6E’ solutions/education people. (You know who you are). I may someday be able to do all that with the $6E mask to fix the communication handshaking issue. (As I understand it, that will also get rid of the 9th injector).

But for now that is out of my reach. I've been learning about the PROM and data-logging world, and wonder if I can just get a PROM burned by someone with the basic $6E mask for the comms issue. My prom says AUM; is that the same thing as $32? (Or I may get the .adx file to work with droid. I’m not sure I did that right.)

One thing at a time I guess. I REALLY appreciate what you have taught me here, and all the research I had to do just to understand it.

Hope this helps someone down the road too.