power window motor going......
power window motor going......
What do you all think? It has happened twice. The drivers window will go down and just stop. If I let it set for a few seconds, it will move about an inch, and I can get the window up the long way. After it sets, it will work fine. If it is the motor, anyone have any ideas on cheap prices?
Jeremy
Jeremy
Not really sure... I've got a couple window problems. Only on my passenger side tho, it lags behind (lazy), it "clunks" when it reaches full down position (in the door), it sqeaks like a motherfvcker when I have it goes up. And lastly the window is slanted, the side of the window towards the back slants more downward then the side near front.
Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Had the exact thing happen with my old Sunbird. The window died a slow death - got more sluggish pushing the window up in the cold and a little better with warmer temps. Even when it would stop, I could just about always get it going again by banging on the motor. Ended up finally replacing the motor.
One caveat --> if you're timid about risking injury to your hand or generally not careful with repair work, let someone who's done the replacement do it for you. After the spring-loaded scissors looking device (I'm great with the terminology
) nearly cleaved off my hand at the wrist, I vowed to leave future installations to somebody more experienced...
One caveat --> if you're timid about risking injury to your hand or generally not careful with repair work, let someone who's done the replacement do it for you. After the spring-loaded scissors looking device (I'm great with the terminology
) nearly cleaved off my hand at the wrist, I vowed to leave future installations to somebody more experienced...
Last edited by Joel Geerling; Feb 9, 2002 at 10:48 PM.
does anyone have the PN for the drivers side motor? I have replaced them before and almost lost fingers, good call
It does not seem to be hanging on the track, it just stops.
Jeremy
It does not seem to be hanging on the track, it just stops.
Jeremy
Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Depends on how old the motor is -- when I replaced my old motor, I asked a friend of mine (who used to own an auto glass/repair shop) what he thought about getting a cheap used motor. He said his experience was that these motors all have a pretty standard lifetime, depending on usage, temperature, and age. So, if you can afford it, spare yourself the hassle of having to drop in a 2nd replacement in the future and just get a new one, IMHO.
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Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
http://www.metzcon.com/fbodymanual/group10.htm says the P/N is 22062528 ... I think that's for up to '87 camaros, but I'd bet it's the same on yours.
Jmon,
Before it goes completely bad for you, you may be able to breathe some new lift into the motor without even cutting a rivet from the door panel.
Take a few minutes to download and check out these instructions, and don't forget to clean and lube everything:
Power Window Motors.pdf
You can't lose anything but time.
Before it goes completely bad for you, you may be able to breathe some new lift into the motor without even cutting a rivet from the door panel.
Take a few minutes to download and check out these instructions, and don't forget to clean and lube everything:
Power Window Motors.pdf
You can't lose anything but time.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,341
Likes: 0
From: Where the chicks absolutely LOVE the V-8 rumble!
Car: 92 RS - Fully Restored w/Custom Int
Engine: LO3 with some mods
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Richmond
Brand new these motors cost about $70, from NAPA.
Installation is a bear unless you have the proper tools. (Screw what the manual says about using bolts and nuts to secure the motor....USE A RIVET GUN)
It's best to remove the window from the door when you do this.
Installation is a bear unless you have the proper tools. (Screw what the manual says about using bolts and nuts to secure the motor....USE A RIVET GUN)
It's best to remove the window from the door when you do this.
I will try to lube the tracks and such, but I think I will pay someone to install a new motor if it comes to that point. Good article Vader, you are a wealth of info, the home made FPR is working great, Thanks!
Jeremy
Jeremy
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
From: saugerties new york
Car: 91 firebird,mint
Engine: 305 tbi,lots of work done
Transmission: 700-r4 built by level 10 in nj
Axle/Gears: 3.73, auburn , precision
i have same problem, the "rest" syndrome, looks like ill have to eventually replace the motors, heres the article and im not looking forward to it https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...rwindows.shtml
Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
From: australia
Car: 1982 t top,,z/28,
Engine: 409ci vortec
Transmission: all steel t700r4,1300 stall yahooooooooooo
JUST A QUICK NOTE
these motors are a pain in the butt,,if they are good no problem, if you have to change it,,,i found ,,,, GET SOME ONE TO HELP,,, if no one is around,, pay the local power window shop a visit,,,i spent 4 1/2 hours by myself,,,,got it done though,,,skin off both arms,,,what a hassle,,,i could have changed 2 gearboxes in the same time,,,,,the second one went bad also,,,i payed $25 and had a beer while the experts done it in 40 minutes,,,2 guys on it,,
these motors are a pain in the butt,,if they are good no problem, if you have to change it,,,i found ,,,, GET SOME ONE TO HELP,,, if no one is around,, pay the local power window shop a visit,,,i spent 4 1/2 hours by myself,,,,got it done though,,,skin off both arms,,,what a hassle,,,i could have changed 2 gearboxes in the same time,,,,,the second one went bad also,,,i payed $25 and had a beer while the experts done it in 40 minutes,,,2 guys on it,,
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