I'm thinking the cam (Duh) and lifters. I'm also planning on putting in a new timing chain and possibly some new rocker arms. The motor has about 100K on it and I just want a little bit more oomph. Do I need to install new springs and retainers? I don't want to end up with a case of "While-I'm-at-it-itis." I'm planning on putting in an XE256 and a set of 1.6 Pro-Magnum RR's.

Any suggestions on timing chains too?

Thanks,
Matt

 

Definately springs. I dont have the slightest idea about retainers though....

Nate

 

Well for starter you will want all the gaskets (timing chain cover, intake, valve covers, and whatever else i can't think of right now). With 100k on the engine I would recommend new springs (make sure you get the right seat pressure)spring retainers and keepers. You don't NEED rocker arms but it would be something I would replace. Cloyes makes a nice double roller timing chain set (includes gears and chain). of course you will also need lifters. Get your 6 quarts of oil for the oil change you will do after the install (this is due to coolant in oil when intake comes off. I would also inspect the pushrods. Make sure none are bent or fatigued. find the flatest surface you can and roll them on it inspecting for bends. If needed replace them. Good luck on the install.

 

Don't forget to do an oil change after you break in the cam as well.

This is what I did when I changed cams, installed the Cam, changed the oil and added the break-in lube that was included in the kit, broke in the cam (sitting in the garage of course, don't drive it until you finish the break in) , 20 minutes at various RPMS from 1500 to 4000, but don't hold it at one setting too long and don't go under 1500. After I did the break-in, I drove the car for a couple of days and then changed the oil again.

Also, I put all the pushrods back into the same place where they came out of, don't know if you have to do that, but I did it anyway.

 

Not sure if you know or not, but you'll need a harmonic balancer puller ( I believe that's what's called).

 

I will be swapping a LT1 cam in one of these days... It is used, should I still use assembly lube? Or could I just oil it up? Also, would 1.6 RR really add anything? Thanks!

 

I'm not sure on the specs of the LT1 cam, but I would be sure with 1.6 RR that it isn't too much lift for stock 305 heads to handle.

 

You'll need a nice long bolt that will thread into the cam for installing it... it's hard to get leverage on the cam when it is 90% in the engine.

 

So I'v heard - But what I was asking is, would the HP increase be anything noticable? Or not really? I dont think it would, but I really dunno...

 

I personally don't think it would be worth it for the price you will pay. If there is a difference it won't be much. What are the cam specs??? What intake are you running?? Are the heads worked at all??

 

The engine is all stock with 100K and no rebuild yet. The specs from Comp cams website on the XE256 are:

Intake Exhaust
Valve Adjustment 0 0
Gross Valve Lift 0.449 0.456
Duration At 0.006 Tappet Lift 256 268

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Valve Timing At 0.006
Open Close
Intake 20 56
Exhaust 70 18

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These Specs Are For The Cam Installed At 108 Intake CL
Intake Exhaust
Duration At 0.05 212 218
Lobe Lift 0.299 0.304
Lobe Separation 112

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Recommended Valve Springs 983-KIT

 

Matt, I don't recall what vintage your engine is. If '86-earlier, you'll have a flat tappet and the "mandatories" change vs. a roller.

For flat tappet, you MUST change the lifters as well, use assembly lube, and go through a run-in. With rollers, you can reuse the old ones, you install it with oil, and no run-in is required.

Buck, the LT1 cam is a roller. You have to have a roller block to use it. See above for assembly lube requirement.

Matt, the cam you're looking at is listing the valve lift for 1.5 rockers. Stock heads will handle that no problem. But, go to 1.6 rockers, and now you're at .479/.486 valve lift, and that's a little too much for press-in studs. It'll probably live, though.

Either way, go with springs and retainers recommended by Comp for that cam & rocker ratio.

To change the springs: while the rockers are off, you'll need to apply compressed air to the cylinder, use an on-head spring compressor to remove & install the springs. Use a 5/8" 1/2"-drive socket on a 6" extension, give the retainer a solid rap with a mallet to loosen the keepers from the retainer (the spring compressor typically doesn't cut it for getting them loose initially).