Non-3rdGen *Need Info*
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,412
Likes: 0
From: St Catharines, ON
Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Non-3rdGen *Need Info*
hey guys, i'm looking at an 86 chevy truck with a 350 in it. I was just wondering what kind of power it would put out stock? 160, 170?
what do you guys think?
Thanks
what do you guys think?
Thanks
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,412
Likes: 0
From: St Catharines, ON
Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
no VIN or RPO
but, what was a base 350 chev putting out in 86? also, does the truck 350 have 4 bolt mains?
sorry for the lack of info!
but, what was a base 350 chev putting out in 86? also, does the truck 350 have 4 bolt mains?
sorry for the lack of info!
I'm not positive, but in '86 most of the 350s were running 76cc chambered heads, which means your compression ratio is probably somewhere around 8:1. Coupled with the likely smallish valves and restrictive intake and exhaust, you'll be lucky to get 180HP at the rear wheels. A good set of heads on that engine could make a huge difference, however.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,412
Likes: 0
From: St Catharines, ON
Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
if the engine puts out around 175 hp, what kind of power would i be lookin at with:
new heads
intake
4bbl carb
cam
headers
I would like to hit at least 250hp with this engine, what do you think it would take to do it? keeping in mind i'm only 17 making minimum wage
also: would the T5 hold up with around 250 horses?
sorry for all the questions
new heads
intake
4bbl carb
cam
headers
I would like to hit at least 250hp with this engine, what do you think it would take to do it? keeping in mind i'm only 17 making minimum wage
also: would the T5 hold up with around 250 horses?
sorry for all the questions
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,969
Likes: 0
From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
I know that an '86 is a few years better than my old truck, but I had (now my parents have) an '81 GMC with a 305.
The factory rating on it was *Drumroll*
120 HP!!!!!!
It was horrible. And the worst part was that it was an auto (TH350) and had a 3.08 rear end. But it had car size tires on it.
It would do about 50-55 MPH in first gear!!!!!! 
It was funny, and I guess still is.
AJ
The factory rating on it was *Drumroll*
120 HP!!!!!!
It was horrible. And the worst part was that it was an auto (TH350) and had a 3.08 rear end. But it had car size tires on it.

It would do about 50-55 MPH in first gear!!!!!! 
It was funny, and I guess still is.
AJ
85,
Let's go backward on this.
Yes, the stock T-5 should hold up to 250 HP, provided you don't apply all that power at once. It isn't going to take 4,500 RPM clutch dumps for very long.
A 350 with natural aspiration can easily make 425HP at the crank and still be very streetable. All on two-bolt mains and a cast crank. The bottom end begins to be very suspect at 450 HP or more.
You mentioned a goal of 250 HP with "new heads, intake, 4bbl carb, cam, headers...". What heads? What intake? What camshaft? You can make 250 HP with factory heads if you just do a little machine work. If you do it yourself, it might be the way to go. If you pay someone to do it, you may be better off with replacement heads.
The camshaft that is original is likely very mild. A new camshaft for your engine can cost as little as $100.00 and can make a huge difference. Of course, you'll need new lifters, timing chain set, gaskets, fluids, etc., so the final cost will be higher.
The carburetion is a relatively easy thing to change, as well as the intake. Personally, I'd save those items for last. It can be surprizing how much power you can make with a 2-barrel carb (some racers are limited to 2 bbl in specific classes and have learned to make good power with them).
Finally, you mentioned that you are "looking at" this truck. My advice would be to purchase the vehicle on the basis of the quality of the vehicle, not the engine. It's a lot easier to improve the engine than to weld in a new cab floor. Find a vehicle in good condition and the performance can be worked on later. Get everything on the vehicle in good working order, since all that power isn't going to be very useful in a vehicle that won't steer and brake, or won't hold a straight line down the road.
Believe me, I've had some true "beaters" in my days, and usually ended up crushing or selling them instead of wasting my efforts on building them into anything notable. Get the good base vehicle first, and we'll go from there. Even a six-cylinder truck in good condition can have a V-8 installed for negligible cost. Then you'd have something.
Let's go backward on this.
Yes, the stock T-5 should hold up to 250 HP, provided you don't apply all that power at once. It isn't going to take 4,500 RPM clutch dumps for very long.
A 350 with natural aspiration can easily make 425HP at the crank and still be very streetable. All on two-bolt mains and a cast crank. The bottom end begins to be very suspect at 450 HP or more.
You mentioned a goal of 250 HP with "new heads, intake, 4bbl carb, cam, headers...". What heads? What intake? What camshaft? You can make 250 HP with factory heads if you just do a little machine work. If you do it yourself, it might be the way to go. If you pay someone to do it, you may be better off with replacement heads.
The camshaft that is original is likely very mild. A new camshaft for your engine can cost as little as $100.00 and can make a huge difference. Of course, you'll need new lifters, timing chain set, gaskets, fluids, etc., so the final cost will be higher.
The carburetion is a relatively easy thing to change, as well as the intake. Personally, I'd save those items for last. It can be surprizing how much power you can make with a 2-barrel carb (some racers are limited to 2 bbl in specific classes and have learned to make good power with them).
Finally, you mentioned that you are "looking at" this truck. My advice would be to purchase the vehicle on the basis of the quality of the vehicle, not the engine. It's a lot easier to improve the engine than to weld in a new cab floor. Find a vehicle in good condition and the performance can be worked on later. Get everything on the vehicle in good working order, since all that power isn't going to be very useful in a vehicle that won't steer and brake, or won't hold a straight line down the road.
Believe me, I've had some true "beaters" in my days, and usually ended up crushing or selling them instead of wasting my efforts on building them into anything notable. Get the good base vehicle first, and we'll go from there. Even a six-cylinder truck in good condition can have a V-8 installed for negligible cost. Then you'd have something.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MILT
Tech / General Engine
2
Dec 18, 2000 08:47 PM
Mr_Sinister
Tech / General Engine
6
Sep 14, 2000 02:28 AM









