I have replaced all the leads and plugs (keeping factory routing ) but #8 yet again eludes me... I can't get a plug socket on it due to my Hedmanns and a ring spanner won't go on due to the recessed plug. Now a socket would go on there if I was to break the ceramic part of the plug (white area).. Would this be ok to do? I know I can tighten the replacement plug, but just can't get the initial loosening movement...

I have to do all this from underneath BTW....

Thanks all.

Felix

 

The ceramic isn't too resistant to cracking but good luck breaking it off, it's very hard. It'll be especially tough if you can't get tools in there to hit or crush it.

 

i'm having a hard time visuallizing how you can tighten the new plug and cannot loosen the old one, but, if you are sure that you can do it, I don't see what it could hurt to break the old plug (ceramic) to get it out. GOOD LUCK !!

 

It's only the initial loosening I need to take care of, when I do the new plug up I would be able to get an open ender on there enough to give it a final 'tweak'

 

In my experience breaking spark plugs is not a difficult thing. I'd just take a pair of plyers or a closed wrench, grab it, and pull. Good luck.

 

Here are some tips on getting to tough spark plugs:

1.) The ceramic breaks very easily. A small tap with a wrench/ratchet will usually pop it right off. I cannot formally endorse this method b/c it is full of peril. You see when you break the ceramic off, it is *possible* for the ceramic/electrode inside to fall off and land inside the head. I've gotten away with doing this a few times when i just couldn't fight anymore, but i have heard of it coming back to bite people when they had to pull the head to get that piece out of there. Consider that a warning and weigh if you want to risk it.

2.) make yourself a spark plug socket. Yeah, you thought you had one of those. OK, now you're going to modify it to work for real w/ headers and a SBC.
- start w/ a plug socket w/ a hex area on the top of it for a wrench to grab
- take out the rubber holder piece if it has one
- Put a spare plug in it all the way. Observe how the plug goes into the socket a half inch or so deeper than the bottom of the fhex section on it.
- Cut off the portion of the socket that sticks out past the end of the hex on the plug.
- at this point, depending on clearance, this may have bought you enough room for you to swing it over the plug, if not....
- cut a window in the side of the socket, basically removing one of the walls of the socket where it engages. This will significantly weaken the socket, but should be good enough for the torque you need. If you need more strength i reckon you could put a hose clamp over it and tighten that to keep it from flexing

obviously you turn this plug socket w/ a wrench.

Unless the plug is practically touching the header you should be able to get this socket on it. Once you get all the old bastards out of it, go ahead and do yourself a favor and get some accel shorty plugs. yeah they're $3 a pop, but they're dramatically shorter than stockers and make this work as close to easy as it gets. I just went through hell pulling my AC plugs on friday (SLP headers). Took me a few minutes to put the accels in, no cussing.
Accel 574S is the equivalent to an AC R43TS


edit, didn;t notice the ZZ4 in your sig, dunno what/if Accel makes a shorty for that but i'd imagine so. Hit the accel website and cross reference what you use in their catalog

 

Wow! Thanks guys. Ed you have put doubt in to my mind

My head says make the socket, my impatience says crack the ceramic

How would I cut up the socket to modify it? Going to need a strong saw? I may as well do it right so next time is a breeze

Thanks for your help

 

Oh and I think I only need 2 cm or so, so if I cut past the end of the plug I should be away.

Great advice Ed, thanks again.

Felix

 

or you can take a hacksaw and cut about 1 inch off the front of the socket and get a wrench to turn the socket. I have both now my style and ed s style. I have had good luck and bad luck from trying to break plugs especially #8 due to the location it could take you longer to break that plug than it would take you to make a socket ;hence why I have 2 special sockets. take the time and make the sockets your patients and your hands will thank you later. you can pick up cheep plug sockets for $0.99 each at parts stores.

Good luck

 

Thanks, poncho, your idea is the same as Ed's is it not? Will a hack saw do the job ok?

I'll need that luck Do it the long way once to do it the short way every time after!

Cheers

 

I guess I was watching more TV at the time I was reading his post sorry yea he posted the same idea I have both types one with the window cut out,one with the socket cut off, and a regular one

 

I used a dremel w/ cut off wheels to make mine. A hacksaw will work, at least to shorten the plug though. If you find you really need to window the side to help it along, a nice flat file would work pretty good asd long as you aren't trying to make a big window.

 

Just to let all that helped know that the hacksaw was hard work, but worked a treat. I took off about 1.5cm and removed the rubber boot. It gave me just enough room to get my socket in there and undo the plug!

At last this job will never elude me again.

A big thank you guys :hail: