Well, I had some spare time on my hands today, so I figured that I would take AIR tubes off the headers. Easy enough, actually didnt take that long, but... I managed to break off one of the bolts. #6 cylinder, I broke off the rest of the tube right at the bolt, where it goes into the header, then put the wrench on and crack, the damn head of the bolt snapped right off.
So what I was going to ask, has anyone else done this before? Can I get a tip on how to get the rest of the thing out, please. I'm really tired of cursing, mostly at myself.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanx,
Rick

 

Can't you just drill it out and tap a new hole? I'd just be careful that when you drill it out it doesn't drop into the exhaust... maybe you should take the header off to do this job?

 

Yeah I really didnt want to take the header off or drill, but I just might have to.
Just exploring my options at this point, dont want to screw anything else up, ya know.

 

Easy-Outs

They're a reverse threaded type drill bit, but you don't put them in a drill.

Just drill the biggest hole you can into the bolt (with a normal drill bit made for metal), but not big enough so you damage the threads on the header. Then you just set your ratchet as if you were unscrewing the bolt and the Easy-Out will dig in as you're turning it.

Then viola, it unscrews the remainder of the bolt. But buy good ones. The cheapos will snap easier than that bolt did.

AJ

Also, it wouldn't hurt to run the engine a little while, just to heat them header, then drench the bolt with PB Blaster, or Liquid Wrench, etc. and let it sit for about 5 min.

 

Hmm, that sounds like a very good idea AJ. But its going to be tricky getting a drill off in there. I think I'm going to have to pull the header off, not what I had planned for tomorrow.
But, I had a little brainstorm a bit ago, and I was thinking of putting some JB Weld on a bolt with a large head and a small shank. Stuff it off in the hole that is already there and let dry for a little while. Then try to crank on that. I think I might try that before pulling the header off. If it screws up then I have to pull the thing anyways. So what do ya think?
If it screws up really bad then I'll just get some real Headers, and be done with it.

 

I dought that JB weld is going to handle the temp, more or less the pressure and vibrations.
Now welding it, is a different story, if you can keep it from melting the air tube.

If there stock headers, there probably a dime a dozen at a bone yard, depending on what year you have.

I have a set of stock exhaust manifolds for a 82 TA in my garage. You more then welcome to claim them.

Ron

 

No I wasnt going to weld it shut, I was going to try to JB weld a bolt into the hole that is already in there, then try to back the rusted up broken bolt out. And I will spray the crap out of it some penetrating lube to make it eaiser. I dont know what I'll do. The car is out of action anyways, bum rearend, so I'm not all that worried about it at the moment.
Thanks for the replies guys.

Rick

 

JB Weld won't hold enough to get the rest of the fitting out. If there's enough of the tube left, smash it shut. Put some muffler putty on it if that will make you feel better. Otherwise, drill & easy-out/tap as suggested above.

 

Yeah that sounds like the best thing to do. Its supposed to snow here in Dallas tomorrow, weird, so I'll have some free time on my hands. Also going to pick up the new rearend tomorrow. It's funny how this car is always taking up my weekends. I'll let you guys know.

Thanx,
Rick

 

Not 100% sure, but I think they still make 90* air drills.

If you don't have an air compressor, etc., then you can also buy special 90* chuck adapter thingys for an elec. drill.

AJ

 

They should make them. Does'nt constuction use 90 degree drills for making holes threw studs, to run wires etc.
I saw one on Vila or something.

I dig what your saying 'StngKlr', but like the others said "No way".
I delt with JB, and it's just not that strong, especaily a rusted exhaust bolt . I dought muffler putty for sealing it shut would work. It's just to damn hot at the header.

I not sure if putting a little cube of dry ice on the broken bolt will work, but you never know. You would still need a way of backing it out (easy out bit maybe, like the others said.)

Ron

 

Rick,

Get used to it. This "hobby" isn't for the feint of heart. Why do you think so many of us have multiple vehicles? The real trick is making them all run "just so" at one time, and resisting the temptation to mod everything. "Well, the high-stall converter and headers worked great on the T/A - I wonder how it would work on the old truck..."

Penetrating oil, a little heat, and an easy-out or good self-gripping pliers should work to get the fittings moving out. Remember that an easy-out is going to tend to expand the fitting, so don't drill the hole any larger if you don't need to - it will just make the removal more difficult.

 

easy out might work.....i've used them occasionally at work.....snap on brand....damn things always break...especially if using on block so anyway. da hell with it getcha some headers