I just picked my car up from the mechanic it was in getting new plugs,timing and a bit of suspension work.
I only live like ten minutes from the workshop.I was driving home and at a set of lights it started to ldle rough then the check engine light come on and then it stalled.It started straight up again and the check engine light was not on.
So i went straight back and showed the mechanic by the time i got there the check engine light was on again.
He told me (basiclly)That the computer has to re-learn the new settings.Does anybody no if this is true and if so how long does it take for the light to stop coming on.I drove it back home and it is on again.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Jeff.
P.S i have not checked the code yet.

 

Jeff,

It is possible that the ECM would have to relearn the new sensor inputs if a sensor were replaced or if the battery power was disconnected. You should not generate a DTC as a result, however. Scan the ECM for error codes first, then check back with us.

 

This afternoon when i get home from work i will check for any codes.
Thanks vader.




Jeff.

 

I bet I can guess what code it is without you even telling us. It is more than likely a code 33. I have the same problem and haven't been able to quite figure out what is wrong yet.

 

I meant code 34 not 33. Sorry about the mix up.


Rick.

 

I just went to check what codes mine would throw out and it did,nt even show the service engine soon code?
When i turned the ignition on it flashed once and that was it i waited for about 3 minutes and nothing.
I suppose that means it is electrical.
Any help please.


Jeff

 

Welcome to the infamous world of the 85 Tuned Port setup and it's ugly brother, code 33. I can't tell you how many times I popped up with a code 33. Code 34s are almost as common, with the most likely cause being corroded connections. Code 33 can be just about anything from corroded connections to a bad MAF sensor to a bad burnoff module, which will run you a VERY pretty penny if you decide to replace it with one from the dealer, ($961!!!). The best thing I ever did was had the computer and burnoff module replaced, the details can be seen on my web page in my sig. I have the troubleshooting tree from the shop manual around here somewhere, just have to find it.

 

I,m just starting to find out how ugly.
Thanks man.
P.S are you talking about coroded connections in general.

 

Crappy relays, crappy connectors- thats the third gen nemesis. These relays are a real problem and I will tell you why. If a relay is properly chosen it is picked because of it's current and voltage characteristics. You do not put in a 20 amp relay in a circuit that only draws 2 amps, and here is the reason. When relays close and open the contacts are cleaned by the arcing that occurs at the contacts. If a relay with too high a current rating is used in a low current application this self cleaning action will not occur. I think they use the same part number for the MAF as they do for the fans. At least that is the way mine came from the factory.The Maf circuit is essentially a low current application with a higher than needed relay. I know that with the exception of the fuel pump all mine were the same number(maybe burnoff was diff). Suggestion, get two new relays pref from GM, only a couple of bucks more than aftermarket. GM claims to have upgraded contact material, or so they say. Do yourself a favor, go get a BIG can of quality contact cleaner(the non-residue type) and pull EVERY connector that has anything to do with emission control and clean. After you do that get a small tube of silicone dieelectric grease and apply a little to the plugs, you may have to push it down into the connectors with your finger. Then reconnect and chances are you will be good for a long time. I went through what you are seeing, intermittent everything and I have not had a problem in years! The grease will slow down oxidation of the connections and give you a lot LESS headaches. Use care when unlocking the connector latches as they are probably brittle and will break easily. Guarantee it will be time well spent. Danno

 

I,ll give it a go on the weekend and hopefully that will work.
This car has been a pain in the *** ever since i got it. OK no
more than most.
Thanks Danno.




Jeff

 

Tyco has a very nice bifurcated contact logic reed relay for this application. 12.6VDC coil (diode included), 2A dry rating, DPDT, weather sealed, silver alloy logic reeds and contacts, and a lot of the wiping action in contact actuation that you describe. You'll have to eject the pins from the "crappy" factory connector and install a new one (socket), but that could only be a good thing. The down side is that you'll no longer be able to get the replacement relays at most auto parts stores if you're ever stuck out on the road somewhere.

Another "zero-wear" option might be an SSR, but I'm not sure what the voltage drop would do to the load, and how the ECM sinking output would handle the operation without a load resistor.