3 or 4 days ago my battery was dead and i drow the car like that for some time (15 min.).When i parked the car it was completely dead.Today i've removed and charged the battery and tried to run the car.Anyway it started.But before i connected a black wire with plastic connectors which was not connected before.The wire is coming from positive pole(and the plastic connector looks like the fuse on car stereos).After i started the car like that it was running like it was on choke.But the choke light was not flashing.After the engine got warm it was still running like it was on choke.Then i've disconnected the wire and it started to run on it's idle speed.But this time check the engine light came up.When i've tried to check the code with the attach noting came up.The light never flashed.I turned the car off and it started to backfire.Then i took the car for a spin and when it was swithing gears it was too rough.And when the car runs it runs very rich i can smell that the car was not burning the gas properly.I didn't check if the alternator was charging properly.Any ideas what could be the problem?The car is 84 t/a 5.0 with auto tranny.Thanks.

 

And also there's a strange noise coming from the rpm guage now.Not always but it does that very often.I didn't had any of those problems before the battery was dead.

 

Anyone?

 

Check your voltage meter. Maybe your alternator diode pack blew and you are only running on one or two of the three phases. That happened to me once. I ended up rebuilding the alternator at the shop in order to make the 50 mile commute back home. It took a couple of hours to rebuild. No big deal.

 

Thank you very much for your answer. Do you think all this caused by alternator?Or are you just talking about my electrical problem with the alternator.

 

I'd bet that its all caused by the alternator.
Low voltage = malfunctioning computer = erratic timing = misfires.

The buzzing from the dash is also how I figured out that my diode pack was blown. It happened whenever the car RPMs dropped to idle. The dash lights would dimly illuminate and something would buzz.

--dan

 

Thanks for the reply again.Today i've changed the alternator and almost everything is fixed.But i still have check the engine light and the car bacfired once.Anyway i'm gonna do a complete tune up.I'm sure many things will be fixed after that.I also checked your webpage.There's lot's of useful information there too.Nice web page.

 

Tongi,

i read some of your earlier posts and i seem to recall you said your car was from ontario, meaning it is a canadian car. my 84 Trans Am is has no computer on it. it has a non computer controlled Q-jet and a vacuum advance HEI. the carbbed canadian f-bodies didnt have computers on them back in 84. it seems that your problem is realted to the alternator, but i just thought i would mention that fact about the early canadian f-bodies with q-jets. godd luck fixing your car.

 

Well if they don't have computers then it's even better.Yes the car is coming from ontario.But when i checked with the serial number it says it's build in US plant.And i have the intake on the hood for the carb.Is there a way to check it if it has computer or not?And also my cars idle is too high.I posted a question before about a wire coming from the positive pole from the battery.It has small plastic connector.When i plug this in it get's even higher.But Check the engine light is gone with that.When i disconnect that cte light is coming on.Do you have any ide what this wire is for?And how can i set my idle speed.Thanks for the reply and the information.

 

hmm...i dont know enough about carbs to tell you how to set your idle speed, but i can tell you how to determine if you have a computer or not (by the way, all f-bodies from that era were made in the states, even the ones shipped to canada, the f-body didnt move till to the now closed Quebec plant until they started making the 4th gens i think, correct me if i am wrong). if you have a computer controlled carb, there will be an electrical connection at the front of the carb, on the passenger side, near the front of the carb (not the electric choke, this connections is closer to the front of the carb) if you dont have this connection, then you dont have a computer. Also, if you have a vacuum advance HEI distributor, you dont have a computer. the vacuum advance HEI will have a small rubber vacuum line running from the little vacuum canister on the distributor to a vacuum port on the carb.

heres what that electrical connection looks like:

 

Brad D. is correct.

An E4ME should have at least three electrical connectors, possibly four. An E4MC should have at least two, and possibly three connectors. Both have a TPS, both have a MC solenoid, and the "E" model has an electric choke heater elelment. Either may have an idle control solenoid depending on the installation.

What color wire(s) is on the connector?

 

The wire is a thin black wire.And it has a plastic connector.it looks like the fuse at the back of the car stereos.