Fan belt keeps making its way off, PLZ HELP!
Fan belt keeps making its way off, PLZ HELP!
I just went thru 2 fan belts.. It goes to the crank to the water pump to the alternator.... I put a new one on, tighten the bastard right down perfect and it flips itself off... When it comes off, the belt is flips over... Could I have a warped pulley? Has this ever happened to anyone? Its happened twice today.... How do u fix a warped pulley? Thanks alot....
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Car: 87 Camaro
Engine: Chevy V8
Transmission: auto
check for alignem,ent first,then spin the water pump and alternator pullies without the belt..You have a ribbed style belt/pulley or a v-belt??
Daz
Daz
You do need the ribbed one I believe...the v-belt is just one big rib. Make sure all the ribs are lined up proper in the correct indents...it can be very misleading sometimes, I've almost put it one incorrectly myself, but I caught it in time as it didn't seem right.
Let me throw my $.02 into this:
As well as the above- use a belt with a 'v' on the drive side- not the cogged type- they throw more easily.
I have had a big problem with this on my big block and after trying out 4 different brands of belt am now using Dayco "Top Cog" belts with a proper 'v' but cogs on the outer edge. Frankly- when it cools down (i.e. sitting for a few hours) the edge of the cogs hit the alternator pulley- so when I start the car I get a nasty squeak for about 30 seconds and it disappears after that. What I need is a complete, solid 'v' belt- no cogs anywhere.
That being said- the absolute WORST belts I tried were the Crappy Tire units- total POS's- I will NEVER buy these again- I must've thrown 10 of the freakin' things before I gave up on them. In fact- their own saw belts (i.e. like table saw) which were thicker and not designed for high-rpm usage didn't throw as easily as their automotive crap belts.
Anyone out there know who manufactures good, solid v-belts (no cogs on drive or outer side)???
The only option I have left if I cannot find such a unit or it is also ineffective is converting to a semi-serpentine setup (serp. on crank/wp/alt- but v-belt on power steering)- a complete big block serpentine system (1990-onward) goes reverse direction on the waterpump or is an aftermarket product from March Performance running close to $500.00 US.
One last addendum: talked to a shop I deal with and asked them to see if they could find a pulley issue/misalignment that I might not be seeing- they couldn't find one either and told me they don't know of anyone who's made a good belt for at least 10 years now- it's all cheapo crap apparently (these guys are all 40-years-old plus so they've been around a while).
As well as the above- use a belt with a 'v' on the drive side- not the cogged type- they throw more easily.
I have had a big problem with this on my big block and after trying out 4 different brands of belt am now using Dayco "Top Cog" belts with a proper 'v' but cogs on the outer edge. Frankly- when it cools down (i.e. sitting for a few hours) the edge of the cogs hit the alternator pulley- so when I start the car I get a nasty squeak for about 30 seconds and it disappears after that. What I need is a complete, solid 'v' belt- no cogs anywhere.
That being said- the absolute WORST belts I tried were the Crappy Tire units- total POS's- I will NEVER buy these again- I must've thrown 10 of the freakin' things before I gave up on them. In fact- their own saw belts (i.e. like table saw) which were thicker and not designed for high-rpm usage didn't throw as easily as their automotive crap belts.
Anyone out there know who manufactures good, solid v-belts (no cogs on drive or outer side)???
The only option I have left if I cannot find such a unit or it is also ineffective is converting to a semi-serpentine setup (serp. on crank/wp/alt- but v-belt on power steering)- a complete big block serpentine system (1990-onward) goes reverse direction on the waterpump or is an aftermarket product from March Performance running close to $500.00 US.
One last addendum: talked to a shop I deal with and asked them to see if they could find a pulley issue/misalignment that I might not be seeing- they couldn't find one either and told me they don't know of anyone who's made a good belt for at least 10 years now- it's all cheapo crap apparently (these guys are all 40-years-old plus so they've been around a while).
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Yea I got it figured out... The belt was too small and too wide.... I having a bunch of stupid problems with my car after it sitting for the winter... The belt issue is now solved...
List of problems holding me back!!!!!! I WANNA DAILY DRIVE HER!!
#1 - Tranny fluid leak. I can drive the car around and it doesnt leak a drip or anything... About 10 minutes after I park the car, it starts dripping out.... Its a pretty big puddle but its just dripping, I looked underneath while it was dripping... I took it back to the tranny shop and put it up on the hoist, and he said everything was dry, but it seems to only leak when the engine is hot when i park the car...
#2 - I thought the car was overheating because the belt kept being thrown, but the belt is perfect now and it overheats.... My timing is way out right now, too advanced, could this cause it too overheat? I have to have the timing this way because my carb wont stay in tune, its ****ed.... If I set my timing right, when the carb goes out of tune it idles at like 3500 and its crazy....
#3 - My carb is a piece of ****! Its a 1405 Edelbrock.. It was fine before I put it away for the winter... I thought I had a vacuum leak but its the carb itself im sure.... I will be driving and it will idle at about 750 rpm, than I drive for a while it will idle at like 2500 rpm, drive a bit longer will drop back down than up than down... If i give her hell, sometimes the idle will drop right down and it wont even idle, just stall.... ****in piece o ****, its pissing me off.... I fix one thing and something else goes wrong... I just put a tranny cooler in because my fittings were all stripped on my rad... Anyone have a tranny cooler? I have a Holley carb... Has the electric choke, dual feed chrome lines, should I try this?
Any suggestions?
List of problems holding me back!!!!!! I WANNA DAILY DRIVE HER!!
#1 - Tranny fluid leak. I can drive the car around and it doesnt leak a drip or anything... About 10 minutes after I park the car, it starts dripping out.... Its a pretty big puddle but its just dripping, I looked underneath while it was dripping... I took it back to the tranny shop and put it up on the hoist, and he said everything was dry, but it seems to only leak when the engine is hot when i park the car...
#2 - I thought the car was overheating because the belt kept being thrown, but the belt is perfect now and it overheats.... My timing is way out right now, too advanced, could this cause it too overheat? I have to have the timing this way because my carb wont stay in tune, its ****ed.... If I set my timing right, when the carb goes out of tune it idles at like 3500 and its crazy....
#3 - My carb is a piece of ****! Its a 1405 Edelbrock.. It was fine before I put it away for the winter... I thought I had a vacuum leak but its the carb itself im sure.... I will be driving and it will idle at about 750 rpm, than I drive for a while it will idle at like 2500 rpm, drive a bit longer will drop back down than up than down... If i give her hell, sometimes the idle will drop right down and it wont even idle, just stall.... ****in piece o ****, its pissing me off.... I fix one thing and something else goes wrong... I just put a tranny cooler in because my fittings were all stripped on my rad... Anyone have a tranny cooler? I have a Holley carb... Has the electric choke, dual feed chrome lines, should I try this?
Any suggestions?
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