Palric sent me an e-mail with this website http://www.goingfaster.com/spo/325_h...chevrolet.html
I was impressed to say the least.An LG4 that can produce 325 HP would be pretty awesome, however, I will be alittle more realistic. I already have the Holley carb and K&N filters. I will be purchasing the Edelbrock Performer intake in the very near future.I inquired today about the Comp Cam XE262H-10 "Xtreme Energy". The price was $190.00+tx. My question with this setup is...Do I need to start changing lifter, rods,rockers etc. in order to put the cam in. The article never mentioned anything about it, so I was wondering if they did or not. I don't plan on doing everything that they did, atleast not yet, but I don't want to suddenly find out that I will need this or that or whatever after I already purchased the cam.I know that alot of people will say to change them no matter what, but money is a factor here.
Any thoughts?

 

That cam won't require any other new parts. It will come with new lifters. Springs would probably be a good idea because the EE line have pretty aggresive ramps.

 

Is there any particular spring that I should get or is a stock replacement sufficient? Also, does the cam come with everything needed for the intall? If not, what will I need?
I don't know awhole lot on cams and I have no intentions of doing this job myself. With a little help from friends, this could be a good learning experience for me.

 

the cam should come with the break in lube....the stuff you put on the cam when you install it. if it doesnt come with that stuff you will need that.

 

Hey Kevin, I built a 305 to rev and I used hardened push rods, HD springs and roller rockers because I knew I'd see alot of time above 6k rpms.

I think I got the entire set from Comp Cams when I bought the cam. My cam was a roller 217/225 .485/.505. To save bucks try the Comp Cams roller tip rockers I think they are 1.65 ratio, I used them once and the worked great for atleast 30,000kms then I sold the car.

Need a new timing chain should get a roller just cause you will for sure pound on the valvetrain now and then.

RE & re a cam is not difficult just time consuming. It took me a whole weekend last time I did it and still needed some work the next week (didn't line up the harmonic bal correctly). I am sure there are some guys on the board who could do it in a day see if they have any advice ?

RP.

 

Thanks for the info, guys. I would be open to any suggestions or advice on this project. I really can't afford for my car to out of commission for more than a weekend, as it is my daily driver.However, I do have some days booked off for long weekends. I would like to start this by the very least, July 5th or July 12th. If I can get these items installed by then, atleast I will have the rest of the summer to enjoy the new found performance of my car.

 

did GM not convert all the small block chevys to roller cams in 87? cause if so you wont necessarily need new lifters as roller lifters can be reused. also when swapping cams you should also put on a new timing chain and if your 305 is currently a roller cammed unit, you need a different timing chain designed for the roller cammed small block chevys.

if you car has a regular hydralic, flat tappet cam, Cloyes makes a good double roller timing chain for like 40 bucks (part # C3023X)...much better than the stock unit. however the cloyes unit cant be used with factory roller cam small blocks

 

'87 was the change over year but I don't think any LG4's received roller cams.

 

ahhh........i see. i wasnt sure about that. tahnks for clearing that up.

 

Hey Kev I posted that article a bunch of times to promote our 305's lol. I was interested in the same upgrades for my car and probably would like to do the same in future. The only difference b/w your and mine save for carb is that you use a vacuum advance where mine's electronically timed. I may opt for the having someone install it bit as when it came to meshing the timing on my car properly I didn't have the tools. If you do do it, I'd lend a hand if you need it. It's a good learning experience in my book.

 

Hey Slade, I like what I saw, however I lack the the knowledge to do the job myself. I can do the work, I just need someone that's done the job before to show me the way. When the time comes, I'll let you know and you can come down and see how it all goes together, hell I'll even let you get your hands dirty. Maybe I should do a "Let's Modify My Car " meet :lala:
I was reading the Chilton manual tonight and they make it sound so simple. I can tell that it will be time consuming. Once it's done though, I will have to definitely have to get to St Thomas and see what she'll do. Who knows, maybe I'll surprise a few people.

 

how do you know if you have a roller cam or not??? i cant find any of my rpo codes so i have no clue///my iroc is an 87 but the motor was swapped with a 350 so i have no clue what year it is

anyways of telling?

iroc2nv

 

Get the block code off the block and post it I have a list of roller vs. non-roller block codes and can let you know which way it falls.

Usually centerbolt heads means roller cam but don't go to the bank on that. I've seen an '87 350 TPI apart and sure enough it had flat tappet. Go figure.

FYI: all blocks 88+ are roller, '87 is the confusion year usually carb'd got non-roller and just about everything before that got flat tappet.

RP.

 

ok,

im not the brightest bulb in the box so where would i find such a code???

(go figure i can take apart a ***** but get me near an iroc and im useless)

ill look where you tell me too!!

neways i look forward to your next response..

iroc2nv

 

I believe the change over occured half year as with the 700r4 upgrade. Roller lifters were accompanied by the center bolt designed heads. If its stock untouched and equipped with center-bolt valve cover heads, odds are its roller lifters. The change to roller lifters did necessitate the design change in the heads for how the valve covers were placed if your're thinking it was done just for the hell of it. I'd still get all codes before making any purchases though if I had an 87. 5 mins digging around for codes is not a big deal to ordering the wrong part, and finding out when your daily driver is in pieces.

 

I guess before I go any further I should double check as to what I have . Where do I find the code for my engine? I have the centerbolt valve covers, however, when I had them off to do my valve seals, the rockers were just plain rockers, nothing fancy( I don't know enough about them, yet, to make any assumptions.)I got a price of $279.00 for the Comp Cam w/lifters.Is that a good price? Are there any other cams out there that are comparable but a little cheaper?

 

I don't believe any LG4's had roller lifters regardless of it having center bolt valve covers.

 

KEVS-87,

If you get an experienced person to help you, you should be able to RE & Re that cam in about 6 hrs. Hardest part is gonna be dropping the oil pan a little to get the timing cover gasket to seat correctly.

If you get another timing chain set (which you should) be advised you'll need a gear puller for the crank gear. Without it, you wont be able to get the gear off to replace it with your double roller chain set.

Most time consuming part is setting the lifter preload. i wouldn't do it as the "book" says because they usually recommend 3/4 to 1 full turn after pushrod contact. This usually keeps the valve too tight. I would do 1/4 turn after contact. (by contact i mean when you feel a little resistance on the pushrod while adjusting your rockers)

Setting the distributor back in can be a little tricky for a first-timer. You have to bring the motor to TDC on the balacer right after the COMPRESSION stroke, not the exhaust stroke. That is a little tricky & is easier to do WITHOUT THE SPARK PLUGS INSTALLED. Makes tunring the engine over by hand easier & it wont skip.

Anyhow, thats a little info for ya from my experiences & if you need more help or have any more questions feel free to ask here or in a PM