ClarionedCanuk

Ok taking off my passenger side manifold today and the farthest back bolt snaps... Sweet. Im thinking this means the head is coming off. This ever happen to anyone?

Also, some questions about 1.6 rockers:
-what do I need
-how much roughly for everything I need
-if I put in a beefier cam are they still usuable

Currently Im working on the slp headers and y-pipe and I got a Random Technology Powermax cat-back being shipped this week. So Im thinking with the intake porting Ive done and new exhaust some 1.6 rockers (or a cam if I wasnt afraid of the swap) will open things up a bit more. Any input would be appreciated!
greg

Kevin Vandevenne

iTrader: (3)

I've had plenty of bolts break, but never an exhaust bolt. Did the bolt break inside the head? If you have A/C I would think that the head would have to come off, since there is so little room to work with the box on the firewall in the way. If some of the bolt is still sticking out of the head, there is a good chance you can get it out with out having to take the head off. You might need a torch to heat the bolt up and use a set of vice grips to twist it out.

88 IROC BOB

A few things to note on the roller rocker swap. If your going to 1.6's you may want to freshen things up with new valve springs as well as seals. Expect to buy some new pushrods to as the stockers will now be too short. I should know I am currently doing these upgrades now.

Bob

ClarionedCanuk

Kevin: I am hoping theres a little something sticking out (havnt got the manifold off yet, 1 more bolt and dipstick) but judging by the bolt its highly unlikely. Ya the AC and crap on the firewall make it pretty imposible to fit a drill in there. I do have a air powered drill thats pretty short though so who knows, maybe on an angle or something.

Bob: Thanks for the advice. Using thunder racing, comp springs, comp or crane 1.6 rockers and chromoly pushrods come to $470 listed price. So if I goto a local shop It will probly cost around $800, pretty steep given my current situation but nows the time to do it.

Its kinda tempting to do the cam but I dont really want open a new can-o-worms when my exhaust isnt finished yet.

greg

Stang Eater

I had the same thing happen to me, but it was the fartheset back on the drivers side.....tried drilling it and using an easy out, then the easy out broke. Had to take the heads off to get it out.

Slade1

1.6 rockers alone do not change the valvetrain geometry. Getting the heads milled, larger size springs, anything to seriously affect geometry and then you would need different length pushrods. I put in the comp cams roller tip 1.6 rockers with no need for pushrod change.

The rear bolts are a pain in the ***, especially when you got a/c. You'll be better off pulling the head when you snap a bolt there.

darbleinad

if there is any of the bolt sticking out, you could try welding a nut on it, if you can get in there to weld...

ClarionedCanuk

stang eater: It blows eh? I think this is the worse possible bolt to break on either of the manifolds.

rovic: good to know. that takes a good $175 or so off assuming non of my rods are bent. Roughly how much did the whole 1.6 rocker swap cost if you dont mind me asking?

brad: Thats a good idea but i think its pretty flush with the heads. I might give it a try anyway. What do you do just weld it through the center of the nut?

Thanks
greg

Slade1

It cost me just under $400 for the new rocker arms. It was well worth it too, I had them in the same day, although it took a bit of tweaking to get a good feel out of them. I found <1/4 extra turn after 0 lash was good for a noticable seat of pants feel over 3/4 turn recommended by the book. It also has a hell of a lot easier time starting too than at recommended. I also read somewhere that by minimizing the extra turn after 0 lash, you increase hp potential. Gotta squeeze out every bit I think. Also after 40000 kms added on them rockers, I think its safe to say 1/8 turn is safe enough.

88 IROC BOB

rovic, maybe there is a difference between using the roller tip or a full roller. I found that using a pushrod .050 shorter put the roller over top of the valve the way it should be. With the stock it would almost want to roll to far over the valve stem.

Oh well, its done and I'm ready to run it on Sunday.

Bob

Daz

iTrader: (1)

Always check geometry when changing any part of the valvetrain..Unless youre an expert and can just eyeball it

Daz

Slade1

According to comp cams, the 1.6 roller tip rockers do not change the geometry and are a direct bolt in from stock. The roller sits right on the top of the valve. I had inquired to comp cams about this before I put in the rockers. The only major concern I had was whether I should have gotten new pushrods, which comp said I should, but after a few posts from daz on the matter figured the stock ones, provided in good condition would be fine with them. I guess with full rollers there could be significant change.

Cruz'N Bruz'R

Greg, In every mechanical setup you need some sort of mechanical "fuse". If something were to go wrong in the valvetrain and something is going to give, you'd hope it would be your fuse. Instead of going with chromemoly pushrods, I would just get a set of hardened ones. I picked up a set of Comp Pro Mag. pushrods for $21US. I would rather bend a pushrod than snap a spring or bust a lifter or a rocker. Give me a call sometime, and if you need some parts we can tour out to the place I deal with. He's cheap.
989-5342

Dave