Simple little projects like bypassing the coolant through the throttle body have always got to turn into major headaches. I cut the stock 180* formed hose, stuck a coupler in it, and found out that there's absolutely no way to route a hose from the heater core to that coupler. Not under the alternator, not over the alternator, not behind it. So I go to Advance and get a couple formed pieces and think I've got it nailed. I hook one up all happy that I finally solved my problem, then decided to set the plenum & TB in place to make sure. The damned hose is going to interfere with the intake boot fitting onto the TB. I can't go under the TB because the IAC gets in the way.

f*ck it... I'm ordering a stock 180 hose tomorrow and routing the coolant through the TB. How in the hell did everybody else accomplish this? Am I really the only a**hole that can't bypass my TB?

EDIT: I suppose the pic would help, but apparently my picture taking went as well as the rest of the project.

If you look close, you can see that the hose and the clamps are in front of the TB.

 

Usually there is a diverter valve that the throttle body connects to. It controls flow through the heater core. The bypass is only supposed to take the place of the throttle body. you unplug one side and the other than attach them to the plastic connector. Not too hard.

 

i bought a molded hose bought 2 ft with a 90 degree bend and simply trimmed down to fit, i went straight from the manifold outlet to the heater core control vavle. maybe 1/2 hour and didnt pull tb just the boot.

 

My diverter valve is long gone, but that really shouldn't have much of an effect on bypassing the TB. I really appreciate the "not too hard" comment, but obviously for me it is. There's no way for me to attach the hose directly to the manifold without kinking the sh*t out of it, and as you can see, my coupler sure as hell isn't going to fit. Neither did the first coupler that I made from a portion of the stock 180* formed hose that I cut.

Anybody else have any suggestions other than reminding me that it isn't hard?

 

Turtle, do you remember where you got that hose? My local parts house didn't have any hose with a 90* bend and a long straight section, which is why I had to monkey around with the crap setup that I have in my pic.

 

i dont see the pic, understand the problem but would have to see it to reroute it.

 

I'm not sure why you can't see it. I don't think fbody.com is down.

 

I can't see it either. I don't see why you have a problem, you don't have access to molded hoses like this? I just wandered behind the counter at Kragen and grabbed what I thought would work. I'd say just get a hose with a 90 degree bend and run that up to a 90 degree coupler that rests on the valve cover. Run a hose from that to the heater core. If you want you can run more couplers to make it look nice, or whatever.

 

bought mine at autozone closest to my house. just went for correct tube size with 90 degree bend and about 2 ft long.

 

That's what I did. I went behind the counter and looked over all their formed hoses. They didn't have anything that just had a single 90* bend in it. That one in the pic was the best I could get.

Here's the URL to the pic: http://iroc.fbody.com/tb_bypass.jpg

It's still working fine for me at work.

 

jimbo you have mail

 

nope all i see is fbody.com, maybe its my AOL.

 

any chance you could run it behind the alternator, and over the valve cover. Maybe you can run a few short hoses with couplings down along the wiring for the injectors. Then drop down in the back.

I got my "90* heater hose" at advance auto. I just took my 180* to match the size up. I have found that sometimes its hard to get them to understand what you need.

The dude I asked was very helpful, and know just what I was talking about.

 

I bought a 5 ft section of heater hose, went straight from the heater core, over the alt bracket to the nipple on the block.

$7 total cost.

 

apparently fbody.com just decided to block images from being used on external sites. Gotta copy the url into your browser address window just like geocities and the other sites.

 

I too bought a section of straight hose with 1 90° bend at the end. I cut off everything passed the bend so there's only about an inch or two, stuck it on and tucked it behind the alternator bracket and ran it down the valve cover.

 

BTW My setup isn't full serpentine and I dont have AIR/AC, let me know if you need pics.

 

check your e-mail for a pic of mine. your alt is on the oposite side of mine (serpentine vs v-belt) but it should still be very do-able.

 

I went behind the counter at Autozone and got a piece of hose that has 2 bends in it. It snakes perfectly around everything. But since I don't have a heater anymore, it's got a spark plug wedged in one end.

I posted the part# of this hose a couple months ago, you might find it if you search hard enough.

 

I feel your pain, my car has the 85-86 setup on it and it is a very tight fit through there but it will fit under the TB behind the Alt. I have to really massage all the parts together like slipping the intake boot back on but it all fits.

 

See, that's what bugs me. I could just stuff it under there, but I hate to have the coolant hose rubbing on stuff. I guess I'm just picky about that sort of stuff. I just hate doing things that I know are going to turn into headaches down the road. I ordered the stock 180* hose today. I'm going to just run it the stock way. From what I've seen, the incoming air temp only changes by a degree or 2 at the most... not enough to worry about. I just wanted it bypassed so I didn't have coolant pouring all over the place every time I pulled the plenum.

 

I just use a regular heater hose with no bends in it. I left enough slack in it to rest on the alternator bracket and then go back to the heater core. It does stick a little far forwardbut there is PLENTY of room this way.

 

My alternator bracket is only a couple inches in front of the nipple, and I guess I just don't want my coolant hose rubbing on anything with any kind of pressure. Maybe I'm just ****, but I don't like doing things like that because I know it'll come back to bite me in the *** later on.

 

Well the alternator bracket is fairly flat without any sharp edges. I used mine like that for about a year already and haven't noticed any wear on the hose at all.

 

Jim,

How far is Adams from Lawrence?? You should come by our shop sometime and hang out.

-- Joe

 

yeah, but I still don't want it rubbing. It'll wear the paint off and look ****ty.

Anesthes, I don't know how far it is. Never heard of Lawrence. I'm about a half hour north of Pittsfield, and about 45 minutes north-west of Springfield.

 

Nope, no paint wear either.

 

well, maybe you've got some magic friction-free hose, but any time my coolant hoses rub stuff, it wears the hose and leaves a mark in what it's rubbing.

 

I feel for you if you can't get a simple heater hose with a 90 degree bend in it from your local auto parts store.

 

i bypassed my tb and the tb and plenum are just as hot as it was before i bypassed it...theres no difference...i disconnected the hose coming out of the manifold and put a peice a copper pipe between and on the hose coming out of the tb...its bypassed but its not pretty...and it also didnt work...theres no coolant going to the tb and there arent n e leaks...why is it still as hot as when it had coolant going to it
thanks guys

 

The gain is mainly a cleaner, easier engine bay to work in.

As far as heat it will take a while for it to become as hot as the rest of the engine, where before its getting HOT coolant fed directly to it immediatly.

 

jim85iroc, actually the hose rests on the alt. bracket and everyting moves together so ther isn't much friction at all. You will get the friction up against the frame or hood it they touch there, but since the hose is fairly short at that spot then it wont flap around much at all. I guess you can zip-tie them together also, what about a large cushion clamp?

 

Thanks for the suggestions, but I'm not willing to comprimise and just run the hose over the alt. bracket regardless of other people's experiences. The only way I'd feel safe doing it would be to sleve the hose with another piece of hose, which looks like ***. I'm going to see what I can find at other parts stores today, and if that doesn't work out I'll just go back to stock.

 

here is a pic of my motor, shows the bypass set up that I went with. Im not sure what it was from but the guy at napa hooked me up with the formed hose with 2 90deg bends about 6" apart, I put a couler there to a straight hose that goes to the firewall. Since then I took the coupler out and put the flush fill T in its place.

 

Woah, check that out.

Do you guys feel this mod is even worth it??

 

It's obviously worth over 30 posts for a mod that takes all of 10 minutes. I got less posts than this for a EGR/timing table question in the PROM forum.

 

Jim,

Since I am a *****...

You asked how to do it w/ out kinking the hell out of the hose. The way to do it is over the top of the alt. bracket. It is not kinked, just moderately "non mandrel" bent

Just run enough to lightly loop over the alt. bracket, and use a factory A/C line holder (off the alt. bracket of an LG4/L69 car) to hold it back, or be a cheap bastard like me and use a zip tie.

But for Dogs sake, quit shooting down the answers that you were asking for in the first place!

FWIW, I have an 86 alternator bracket, 87 alternator and it works, and doesn't rub paint off the bracket.

 

A neat way of getting the TB bypass done is to get yourself an NPT to AN type fitting, then get a 90* AN to hose fitting, as pictured below. Makes a nice, tight turn and lets you run it where ever you want.

 

Desert, that looks good. I thought about doing that but never really looked into it.

Anyway.... after going to 4 parts stores, I finally found a place that had a formed hose with a 90* bend and a good long straight section. 4 damned places for a damned line with 1 bend in it. I ran it and I'm somewhat happy with it. The hose still has to compress to fit the duct-work on to the throttle body, but not too bad. It'll do for now.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

Glad you finally figured it out. I'm not using a 90 though, just straight hose. It was bypassed about 8 years ago and its still on the car and fine. I dont think friction is a problem.

 

What are you guys doing about the 2 empty ports on the TB where the heater hoses used to go?

 

Some people cut them off and block the passage. I just left it alone..

-- Joe

 

I just put rubber 5/8 caps on the ends of 'em.