can i use a later style throttle body with lt1 intake?
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From: Cleveland, OH
Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
can i use a later style throttle body with lt1 intake?
I have a TB from an LT1 engine and am planning to use it with my LT1 intake that I'm putting on. It has the cam style throttle linkage but my throttle cable is currently the old style one that goes over a pin, can I just change throttle cables and have it work ok? Will the cable fit the LT1 throttle bracket?
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From: Cleveland, OH
Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by S10Wildside
The throttle body's "lever" (where the cables connect) on the driver side will always touch the front coolant fitting. You'll have to use a L98 style throttle body.
The throttle body's "lever" (where the cables connect) on the driver side will always touch the front coolant fitting. You'll have to use a L98 style throttle body.
The L98 throttle body will clear the front coolant fitting. The LT1 throttle body will not clear the front coolant fitting...I don't even think it will bolt on with the fitting in place.
The LT1 sensors all accept different plugs. Your TPI harness will not plug into the LT1 throttle body sensors. I'm speaking about the 94-97 LT1 throttle body. I do not know if the 1993 LT1 throttle body is different.
Use the L98 style throttle body.
The LT1 sensors all accept different plugs. Your TPI harness will not plug into the LT1 throttle body sensors. I'm speaking about the 94-97 LT1 throttle body. I do not know if the 1993 LT1 throttle body is different.
Use the L98 style throttle body.
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From: Cleveland, OH
Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
ttt, still trying to resolve this. as far as i know the 89-92 tpi tb and lt1 tb throttle linkage is identical so if the tpi one will clear why wouldn't an lt1 type clear?
Guys, there must be a good reason, so forgive me for asking this:
Why go through all of the hassle of adapting an LT1 manifold when you can simply get a MiniRam that will likely perform the same or better, and will bolt on to the engine as is? Is it cheaper or something? It just seems like a lot of work... different coolant passages, different flange angle, different port shapes, etc...
Why go through all of the hassle of adapting an LT1 manifold when you can simply get a MiniRam that will likely perform the same or better, and will bolt on to the engine as is? Is it cheaper or something? It just seems like a lot of work... different coolant passages, different flange angle, different port shapes, etc...
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From: Cleveland, OH
Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
i'm doing it because it's the cheapest way to go and i'm a semi broke college student. if i'm not happy with the results i'll probably sell it and get a stealth ram or somethin
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From: Louisville, KY
Car: 1987 IROC-Z28
Engine: 383 Vortec - carb
Transmission: T56 - 6speed
Unless you have an intake that has already been converted with front coolant fittings........John has started putting the coolant passages in the back of the intake so there shouldn't be any problem with using the LT1 TB except that the sensor conections are different. A few snips at a junkyard should cure that.
Hodge
Hodge
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From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
Originally posted by Ukraine Train
the intake has already been modified with front coolant passages
so that's no good
the intake has already been modified with front coolant passages
so that's no good 1. plug the front coolant fittings and install them in the rear
2. or scrap the LT1 TB and get a L98 TB.
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From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
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Here's a picture of a LT1 throttle body on a modified LT1 intake with coolant fitting in the front. As you can see there's no way to get the coolant hose attached. Don't forget that the throttle cable will need to be LT1 style as well if you stay with the LT1 TB.
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From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Originally posted by Pro-Tour71
Why go through all of the hassle of adapting an LT1 manifold when you can simply get a MiniRam that will likely perform the same or better, and will bolt on to the engine as is? Is it cheaper or something? It just seems like a lot of work... different coolant passages, different flange angle, different port shapes, etc...
Why go through all of the hassle of adapting an LT1 manifold when you can simply get a MiniRam that will likely perform the same or better, and will bolt on to the engine as is? Is it cheaper or something? It just seems like a lot of work... different coolant passages, different flange angle, different port shapes, etc...
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From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
Originally posted by jmd
Yes the LT1 intake is cheaper overall. It will not perform the same as the MiniRam though.
Yes the LT1 intake is cheaper overall. It will not perform the same as the MiniRam though.
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Originally posted by John Millican
And what do you base that statement on? Sounds like opinion to me.
And what do you base that statement on? Sounds like opinion to me.
Earth to John.
The MR has shorter runners and larger ports.
Wake up, quit BS'ing and join us here on the dry land.
thanks.
Matthew in Albuquerque
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Car: 92 Trans Am 'Vert
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Thats funny.. the MiniRam was designed by one of the people involved in diveloping the Lt1. The Lt1 and MiniRam are EXTREMELY similar in design, with the MiniRam being slightly better.
Earth to YOU... think before you speak.
Earth to YOU... think before you speak.
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From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Originally posted by 88 WS6 TransAm GTA
Thats funny.. the MiniRam was designed by one of the people involved in diveloping the Lt1. The Lt1 and MiniRam are EXTREMELY similar in design, with the MiniRam being slightly better.
Earth to YOU... think before you speak.
Thats funny.. the MiniRam was designed by one of the people involved in diveloping the Lt1. The Lt1 and MiniRam are EXTREMELY similar in design, with the MiniRam being slightly better.
Earth to YOU... think before you speak.
Right.
And the Edelbrock LT1 intake had no gains over the stock LT1 intake.

What's funny isn't that you're hanging off Johns sack. It's that all I said was that they would not perform the same. I didn't state numbers. I just said they would perform differently.
Why do people with cheap crap like modded LT1 intakes and poly a-arm bushings have to talk their stuff up like it's the sliced bread best invention ever when it's clearly not? I dont' give a hoot if you want to run something because of price. Your car, your purchase, your decision. But when something is misrepresented just because you run it, it's absolutely funny.
I do think before I speak. And I step up and buy the best there is, instead of pumping up my second-best parts as being the same when they're not.
I have not the means to dyno a MR-II or III vs. the LT1 intake, or I would. Feel free to do so to make me eat my words. I'll patiently await the proof to arise from the pudding.
Look at my original post. I didn't start anything in this post, other than represent that the two intakes would perform differently.
-Matthew
Last edited by jmd; Jan 11, 2003 at 11:40 PM.
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From: Fairview Heights Illinois
Car: 1986 Irocz
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.25:1
How about just replacing the straight coolant fitting with an angled or 90* one?
Or what about making a spacer for the TB to move it forward a bit?
Or what about making a spacer for the TB to move it forward a bit?
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From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
Originally posted by jmd
The MR has shorter runners and larger ports.
The MR has shorter runners and larger ports.
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From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
Originally posted by jmd
.
Why do people with cheap crap like modded LT1 intakes and poly a-arm bushings have to talk their stuff up like it's the sliced bread best invention ever when it's clearly not? I dont' give a hoot if you want to run something because of price. Your car, your purchase, your decision. But when something is misrepresented just because you run it, it's absolutely funny.
.
Why do people with cheap crap like modded LT1 intakes and poly a-arm bushings have to talk their stuff up like it's the sliced bread best invention ever when it's clearly not? I dont' give a hoot if you want to run something because of price. Your car, your purchase, your decision. But when something is misrepresented just because you run it, it's absolutely funny.
Oh, and one more major differance, the LT1 intake is half the price!
So to sum up your half assed statement, anything that is half price is 'cheap crap like' right?
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From: Louisville, KY
Car: 1987 IROC-Z28
Engine: 383 Vortec - carb
Transmission: T56 - 6speed
Originally posted by jmd
Yes the LT1 intake is cheaper overall. It will not perform the same as the MiniRam though.
Yes the LT1 intake is cheaper overall. It will not perform the same as the MiniRam though.
State factual differences between the two and your views on how those differences will affect the performance.
Your saying that 2 different (although extremely similar) intakes do not perform the "same". Couldn't this be assumed. They are after all not identical.
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From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
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Originally posted by 305sbc
How about just replacing the straight coolant fitting with an angled or 90* one?
Or what about making a spacer for the TB to move it forward a bit?
How about just replacing the straight coolant fitting with an angled or 90* one?
Or what about making a spacer for the TB to move it forward a bit?
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From: Fairview Heights Illinois
Car: 1986 Irocz
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.25:1
how about take the intake to a welder and have them TIG in a bent aluminum tube of your choice so it sits perfectly where you need it with the right angle and no restriction?
just throwing out suggestions because a coolant passage seems to trivial to me to cause a major change of plans.
just throwing out suggestions because a coolant passage seems to trivial to me to cause a major change of plans.
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From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
Originally posted by 305sbc
how about take the intake to a welder and have them TIG in a bent aluminum tube of your choice so it sits perfectly where you need it with the right angle and no restriction?
just throwing out suggestions because a coolant passage seems to trivial to me to cause a major change of plans.
how about take the intake to a welder and have them TIG in a bent aluminum tube of your choice so it sits perfectly where you need it with the right angle and no restriction?
just throwing out suggestions because a coolant passage seems to trivial to me to cause a major change of plans.
I do this on all my latest intakes. No-one has TB problems anymore no matter what TB you use.
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John,
I am finishing up my first LT1 intake swap right now. I had put the coolant lines in the front because a few machine shops said the cooling would be less even if I put them in the rear.
I don't know a lot about how the cooling system works so I took their advice. Do you have any information as to how or why putting them in the rear is OK? I am just searching for info here. I looked all over the web and the forums but can't see to find any information on how putting them in the rear would affect cooling, or if it does not.
I am starting to fab another intake (alum welding & drilling) and would like to put the fittings in the rear if it is an OK thing to do. Has anyone used an infared temp. meter to measure the front and read head temp. differences with the ports in the rear of the intake?
Thanks,
J
I am finishing up my first LT1 intake swap right now. I had put the coolant lines in the front because a few machine shops said the cooling would be less even if I put them in the rear.
I don't know a lot about how the cooling system works so I took their advice. Do you have any information as to how or why putting them in the rear is OK? I am just searching for info here. I looked all over the web and the forums but can't see to find any information on how putting them in the rear would affect cooling, or if it does not.
I am starting to fab another intake (alum welding & drilling) and would like to put the fittings in the rear if it is an OK thing to do. Has anyone used an infared temp. meter to measure the front and read head temp. differences with the ports in the rear of the intake?
Thanks,
J
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From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
I have been installing the coolant fittings in the rear for 1 year now. I probably did 50 intakes last year, not one has complained about cooling issues.
I will update the cooling line picture, I missed that.
I will update the cooling line picture, I missed that.
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Car: '91 Corvette, Chevy-powered CJ-7, Dodge 2500 4x4
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Is there any advantage to using an LT1 throttle body over an L98 unit?
i.e. Flow differences?
-Z
i.e. Flow differences?
-Z
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by John Millican
I have been installing the coolant fittings in the rear for 1 year now. I probably did 50 intakes last year, not one has complained about cooling issues.
I will update the cooling line picture, I missed that.
I have been installing the coolant fittings in the rear for 1 year now. I probably did 50 intakes last year, not one has complained about cooling issues.
I will update the cooling line picture, I missed that.
while you're doing that
put the price list on the main page. currently the only way to see them is to click FAQ then the link..
ive sent alot of people to your site, and 3 out of 5 ask me how much.... they just dont see the link.
while you're reading this, i have 3 questions for you.
1. i have Dart Iron eagles... are the cooling ports too big on these for the intake?
2. whats the diff between the caprice "lt1" intake and the regular LT1 intake?
3. im putting it on a 400SBC. and im paronoid about cooling.
you think theres enough metal there that i can drill the coolent nipple hole at a angle, tilted away from the TB, but not all the way thru, then drill up, and meet the 1st hole.... creating a angle?
somthing like the attached pic...
dark gray is the straight hole like now, light gray is the angle/tapped hole and nipple
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From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
Originally posted by MrDude_1
while you're doing that
put the price list on the main page. currently the only way to see them is to click FAQ then the link..
while you're doing that
put the price list on the main page. currently the only way to see them is to click FAQ then the link..
ive sent alot of people to your site, and 3 out of 5 ask me how much.... they just dont see the link.
while you're reading this, i have 3 questions for you.
1. i have Dart Iron eagles... are the cooling ports too big on these for the intake?
2. whats the diff between the caprice "lt1" intake and the regular LT1 intake?
http://www.lt1intake.com/intakeports.htm
3. im putting it on a 400SBC. and im paronoid about cooling.
you think theres enough metal there that i can drill the coolent nipple hole at a angle, tilted away from the TB, but not all the way thru, then drill up, and meet the 1st hole.... creating a angle?
somthing like the attached pic...
dark gray is the straight hole like now, light gray is the angle/tapped hole and nipple
If you're serious about cooling then look into AFTERMARKET dual electric fans. Not the dual IROC fans, they suck compared to the dual Spal 11" fans. Then if you're still not satisifed with the cooling upgrade the radiator to a Griffen dual 1.25" core universal one. be aware custom upper and lower mounts will be required with the 1.25" version. You can use the stock mounts wth the dual 1" core version though.
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by John Millican
It IS on the main page, top left in bold.
It IS on the main page, top left in bold.
Originally posted by John Millican
I am not absolutly sure. I know the Dart II heads have very tall coolant ports that the LT1 intake has a hard time covering without welding a little material at all 4 corners. We're not talking much, just about 1/8"-3/16" would do fine.
I am not absolutly sure. I know the Dart II heads have very tall coolant ports that the LT1 intake has a hard time covering without welding a little material at all 4 corners. We're not talking much, just about 1/8"-3/16" would do fine.
Originally posted by John Millican
[No way, there is just enough to drill/tap straight. If you want an angle you must weld the fitting on.
If you're serious about cooling then look into AFTERMARKET dual electric fans. Not the dual IROC fans, they suck compared to the dual Spal 11" fans. Then if you're still not satisifed with the cooling upgrade the radiator to a Griffen dual 1.25" core universal one. be aware custom upper and lower mounts will be required with the 1.25" version. You can use the stock mounts wth the dual 1" core version though.
[No way, there is just enough to drill/tap straight. If you want an angle you must weld the fitting on.
If you're serious about cooling then look into AFTERMARKET dual electric fans. Not the dual IROC fans, they suck compared to the dual Spal 11" fans. Then if you're still not satisifed with the cooling upgrade the radiator to a Griffen dual 1.25" core universal one. be aware custom upper and lower mounts will be required with the 1.25" version. You can use the stock mounts wth the dual 1" core version though.
if i end up moving my alt to the smog pump location for my supercharger install, i think i may just tap the front of the head on that side... you know anyone else that has done that?
i realize its overkill, having both sides exit the rear is the same as the front, but id rather be on the thermo in 115* heat then in the red.
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From: Norfolk, VA. USA
Car: 86 Trans Am, 88 Formula
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Transmission: T56, T5
Just to clarify,
are you all saying that the TPS and IAC on the TPI and LT1 TB's are elctronically the same, just with different connectors on them?
how about the 93 LT1 and the 94-97 LT1 TB's?
are you all saying that the TPS and IAC on the TPI and LT1 TB's are elctronically the same, just with different connectors on them?
how about the 93 LT1 and the 94-97 LT1 TB's?
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by Zepher
Just to clarify,
are you all saying that the TPS and IAC on the TPI and LT1 TB's are elctronically the same, just with different connectors on them?
how about the 93 LT1 and the 94-97 LT1 TB's?
Just to clarify,
are you all saying that the TPS and IAC on the TPI and LT1 TB's are elctronically the same, just with different connectors on them?
how about the 93 LT1 and the 94-97 LT1 TB's?
for the late SD-TPI cars, vs the 94+ LT1 i know thats yes..
from the data i looked over, even the LS1 sensors are the same.
for the older TPI and 93 stuff, i donno.
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that was a good question

