Long time reader...few time writer
'88 IROC
305 TPI
Mostly stock
MSD Blaster Coil
MSD Cap & Rotor
MSD 8.5mm Wires
Bosch Platinum plugs
Uh, that's about it.....


OK, I'm driving along today and go to pass someone on the freeway and when I put the hammer down it started cutting out like it wanted to die on me, almost like you're running out of gas (which isn't the case)....then the SEL came on. This is the second time this has happend but the first time it was a loose connection on the EST by-pass connector. This time that's not the problem but similar symptoms. I got it in a parking lot and it died and didn't want to start...would just turn over and over. Finally got it started and limped it home whereas I direct connected the bypass wire (that's how I know that's not the problem). So then I take the cap off the distributor and use a digital multimeter to check the pickup coil. I got no reading between either of the two wires and the ground, and had about 120 ohms between the two...and from what I read in the chilton, that's under what it should read. So I started searching on here for possible solutions to my problem but didn't really find an answer. About two hours later I checked it again and between the two wires on the pickup coil I got a reading of about 900 ohms (alot more than before). So I put it back together and when I start it this time, no SEL and it's running fine (as in, not cutting out and dying). I let it idle for a little while, to warm up, and then drive it down the road. Everything is fine going through the niehborhood, but as soon as I pull out on the highway, put the hammer down, the same thing happened....cutting out, SEL (42 again), dying at the redlight, etc. So I limped it home again and here I am...searching...not finding what I need....and running out of time. Wife's not happy to drive me to work at 6:00am on her day off.
So tell me if I'm wrong....
My guess is it's the pickup coil.
Since I can't check the ignition module I'd have to do the "swap and see" technique (but I want to wait on your input)
What reading, on a digital multimeter, should I get between the wires and ground individually...no reading at all (as in the same reading you get when the leads aren't touching anything) or 0.000 reading?
Would you suggest an MSD distributor (which I'm going to guess that you wouldn't from what I've read, but I'll ask anyway), or should I just fix the one I have.
Also, I was reading a post about rust on the distributor https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ND+Distributor and mine is the exact same way.
I don't want to waste money on something I don't need, but it definately isn't out of the question if I DO need it.
Sorry this is such a long post, but I wanted to make sure you had as much info as possible.
Thank you very much in advance.

 

Couldn't say on what the readings should be, but in my experience the module will just flat out die and not work anymore. I would suspect the same of the pickup coil, but I may be wrong. Since your problem is so intermittent I'd seriously recheck the wiring to the distributor. See if something could be vibrating loose or if the wiring could be grounding(pinched when changing distributor caps, perhaps?) Getting two different readings at different times really makes me think it's a wiring problem somewhere.

 

I think its the ignition module. Mine did the same thing and I have heard of others doing it too. Its fine when its cold but when it warms up it dies. As for testing there should be a shop or maybe an auto parts store that can test it or tell you how.

 

Thanks. I'm going to drive it while it's still cold today to see if it still does it. I'll probably drive it to the parts store to get the ignition module and hopefully fix it when I get back. I'm also probably going to test the pickup coil while cold and then hot to see if I get different readings.

I looked for pinched wires or loose connections but didn't see any. Like I mentioned before, it ran fine as long as I drove like grandma, but as soon as I tried to get it moving, it would cut out and start it's crap all over.

I'll let ya'll know what I find out. If anyone else has any suggestions, please send them
Thanks

 

OK, what happens if the part shown in the picture can move? I can rotate it back and forth about 1/4 to 1/2 an inch. If it's not supposed to move, what do I need to do to replace it?
Thanks

 

looking at the factory manual for a code 42. More than likely it's a ignition modual.

 

Try this. Look for my post. It's a page I pulled from the Helms manual on code 42.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...&highlight=est

 

Update....
While it was still cold, I pulled the dist cap off and used my multimeter to check the pickup coil...got the reading I should have gotten according to the books. Put it back together, started it, and let it get to operating temp...ran fine...hit the street...still fine...got on it a little and started cutting out and wanting to die, with the code 42 again. Limped home and checked the pickup coil to find out that I was getting a reading from each wire to a ground (which I'm not supposed to get). Let it sit overnight and checked the pickup coil again while cold...got the reading I'm supposed to have. So, I guess now I'll either be getting a new pickup coil or a new MSD Pro Billet Ready to Run distributor, unless I'm convinced otherwise by you kind folks here. I'm open for suggestions.
Thanks again and, uh, in advance...again.

 

Ive always heard good things about Msd. If you get 1 id sure like to know if you notice any improvements.

 

It sounds like you have a heat related failure of the pickup coil insulation. Acceptable resistance should be between 150-1,500 ohms. Check your new one. It should read right around 850 ohms.

 

Pickup coil it was. Replaced it and thought I still had the same problem because it was running rough when I started it, but I got no 42. So, I went ahead and changed the ignition module, since I picked it up also (I wanted to replace one part at a time to find out for sure what the problem was) and it was still running rough....then I adjusted the timing and it smoothed out. Took it for a spin and still no problems...problem fixed.

What NOT to do
-Put the gear on the distributor upside down....it just won't work that way, man.

Also, I don't think the gear lines up EXACTLY the same if you spin it around and put the pin back in....I think it's off a little, so if you don't have a timing light (like me) make sure you put it back on exactly how it came off, because if you don't, the marks you made so you can set the timing back will be useless.

Thanks for everyone's replies.