That's about it. The bolt heads are stripped on the underside of the runners, too deep in to tap them. Any ways to make a violent removal easier?

-Reno

 

Hmm, the runners aren't threaded. So if your bolts are broken off, they should broken off into the plenum/intake and would bascially look like studs. Pull the runners off and use vice grips to get the "studs" out.

I could be wrong on this, but I'm pretty sure none of the runners are threaded.

 

The bolt heads are intact, just the torx part is stripped, and since they're so deep in under where the runners turn down, I can't get at them with a drill to knock them off. The plan is to use a hacksaw to remove the runners frum their bases, then it's a little up in the air. Chisel maybe? It is pretty soft aluminum if I remember corectly...

I just NEED to get my bird running regularly again. My soul is being slowly sucked away every time I put the pedal down in my Ford Ranger and nothing of note happens...

-Reno

 

If you take the VCs off, the lower bolts are a lot easier to get too, so much so that a straight shot with a drill should be no problem. The only potential problem might be on the back DS where the wiper motor is kinda in the way, but you could probably get that one with a cut off tool, esp. if you take the wiper motor off too.

I mean, sure you can attack it with an air chisel, but why destroy a few hundred dollars worth of runners and base if you truly haven't tried everything yet.

 

Why don't you use vice grips, heat the bolts, and try that?

 

pull the covers and get a long bit and drill of the heads then give me the runners due to the fact you dont want them

 

are you saving the runners?if not hack em off,then get an old nut and weld it to the damaged bolt(s).Make sure you only weld the inside or you'll be in the same boat.(this method works great)
Gary

 

Stop........ Do this buy the tool designed to take out stripped bolts . Looks like a long socket , with spiral teeth cut in it . It never fails . trust me.... this is not just my hobbie , its how i make my money . I own a snap-on set , i think the set of 10 was close to 200.00 . Bought look around for them

 

C4, you want them, come and get them off in one piece, and they're all yours. Otherwise, I'm getting a set of SLP's anyway, and this is a great excuse to blow off some steam on my engine.

Might have to put the project off a little while anyway. Tax...refund...keeps...shirinking!!

-Reno

 

I'm pretty sure you can't use the tool on the bolts, Breadfan. I had a similar situation and ended up cutting the bolt head off. The bolts they put there really suck..they have nothing to grab onto if they do strip.

I agree with Ed on this one. Take the valve covers off to give yourself some more room, and you should be able to drill them out. If you've got the fuel rails and plenum off it should be much easier to work and you can actually get the bolt that threads in backwards through the base if that got stripped as well. Do yourself a favor and spend part of that tax refund on some real bolts.

 

One hole in each runner is threaded. It's the upper bolt in the lower set of 4 bolts on each runner. The rest are not threaded.

I'd drill into the stripped bolts until you're right at the shank (e.i. no head left) then pull the runner off. The bolts are obviously very mushy.

 

I know the tool i have in my box would remove those bolts . With it and some PB blaster i would have them out in min.s . I worked in maine for a while . thats a rusty state . If you drill put some wheel bearing grease around the dril bit to catch the shavings . Also start small and work your way up through the bits .

 

The removal tool is a good idea and so is drilling. I would also consider beating a twelve-point socket onto it. It works fairly well on stripped lug nuts. If you plan to hack, i have a set of '89 runners i'll sell you for cheap.

TurboSteve

 

I've got an idea that should work well. If I remember correctly those bolts have pretty much flat heads that are round with the torx star in the middle right??
Remove the valve covers and use either a small cut-off wheel or maybe even a chisel to put a groove into the center of it. Then just use a large flat blade screwdriver to remove them. If the grooves are deep enough it should work.

 

I used an air hammer with great suscess.
With the chisel attachment, hammer straight down on one side of the bolt head. After you have established a groove, lean the air hammer over abt 45 degs and force the bolt to turn.
I took all of mine out that way except for 1, it actually came out with the TORX bit.
I was working with the eng on a stand. Not sure how much room you have, but definately worth a shot if you can fit it in there.

 

If it's the bolts I think he's talking about, (the lowest bolts), there's NO room for any of that.

 

sure there is,if youre a good welder.
ive done it.
Gary

 

Reno,

You know, I can completely relate to this - the wife's '94 Ranger 5-speed 4-banger just doesn't cut it after driving a 5.7 IROC

Ray