cam swap procedure Q's
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: marlborough/dartmouth, MA
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
cam swap procedure Q's
hey i got a few cam swap questions if u will...
do i really have to remove the AC condensor and discharge it,etc?
whats the deal with the oil pan, what do i have to do to access the timing chain cover? odi have to do anything to the oil pan, take it totally off or just loosen, i need it explained, thanks a lot
do i really have to remove the AC condensor and discharge it,etc?
whats the deal with the oil pan, what do i have to do to access the timing chain cover? odi have to do anything to the oil pan, take it totally off or just loosen, i need it explained, thanks a lot
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From: Chicago area
Car: 87 Z-28
Engine: 383 HSR w/supercharger, AFR heads
Transmission: 700r4 w/2500 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73
Yes you do have to remove the condenser. With the condenser removed, it will be a little tight, but you will be able to replace the cam. Be careful not to damage the front cam bearing during removal/installation.
As far as the oil pan, you do not need to remove it to access the timing chain. When you put the front cover back on, be careful again not to dislodge the front cover seal. Some RTV at the edges will help avoid any oil leaks.
As far as the oil pan, you do not need to remove it to access the timing chain. When you put the front cover back on, be careful again not to dislodge the front cover seal. Some RTV at the edges will help avoid any oil leaks.
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 330
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Car: 91 z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
You do need to loosen all the pan bolt. I took most of the ones from the front of the motor off. This let the front of the pan sag down witch will help you when you go to put the timing cover back on.
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Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 519
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From: marlborough/dartmouth, MA
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
aight so ill have to have the AC discharges/recharged then right? about how much does this run $$?
thanks a lot for the help
thanks a lot for the help
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 330
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Car: 91 z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
If you are going to discharge the A/C then I would change over to R-134a. You can do it yourself. It cost about 40 bucks and about 1 hour of your time. Just put the A/C back in my car after two years without it because it was cheap. I bought all new o-ring, new accumulator and the kit for $110.00 . You don't have to do buy the accumulator or the o-rings. My system had been off for the car for two years. Good luck
Last edited by jeffsbluez; Mar 5, 2003 at 07:14 PM.
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From: Atlanta, GA, US of A
Car: 94 Z28
Engine: LT1 w/ headers, catback, CAI, tune
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23s
You don't have to decharge/recharge it, I just left it all connected, ubolted the A/C compressor (driver's side mount on my years), and wired it over to the side out of the way, the condenser I left hooked up as well and just had someone hold it up/over out of the way a bit while I slide the old cam out and the new one in. I've done that on both my 86 and 87 during cam swaps, went fine.
I didn't even loosen the oil pan bolts myself, but trying to get the cover back on turned out a be a decent bitch both times, I'm sure a loose pan would have helped that...
I didn't even loosen the oil pan bolts myself, but trying to get the cover back on turned out a be a decent bitch both times, I'm sure a loose pan would have helped that...
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the A/c stuff can be moves out of the way. The 2 crossing "supports" in front of the radiator will have to be unbolted and pulled out(EZ) for the cam to go in PROPERLY! What I found to be A MAJOR PAIN was the whole oil pan gasket deal.
I got so damn pissed b/c i was just teraing the gasket trying to get the cover back on. SO I ground off the first 90* lip on the cover and used BLACK PERMATEX RTV and put a whole crapload on there......and it leaked pretty bad...so I let it dry and used the "band-aid" method and just patched/filled more RTV right over the leaky area. Hasnt leaked a drop since. I can tell u this....if your're gonna drop the pan...just pull the damn motor and get it over with...TRUST ME Ohh, also, definetly loosen the easily accesable fron oil pan bolts
I got so damn pissed b/c i was just teraing the gasket trying to get the cover back on. SO I ground off the first 90* lip on the cover and used BLACK PERMATEX RTV and put a whole crapload on there......and it leaked pretty bad...so I let it dry and used the "band-aid" method and just patched/filled more RTV right over the leaky area. Hasnt leaked a drop since. I can tell u this....if your're gonna drop the pan...just pull the damn motor and get it over with...TRUST ME Ohh, also, definetly loosen the easily accesable fron oil pan bolts
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