I have been working dilligently getting all the loose ends buttoned up after this winters project which consisted of head porting, 2.02/1.60's, screw in studs, roller rockers, and Holley SR intake.

I've read through all the posts and haven't found my answer yet so here goes.


So, Where does the vacuum line from the underside of the TB go to? (the really small one) It used to go to to that little vacuum distribution block that was mounted to the remote coil bracket. That is now gone though because there is no need for the one line to go to the EGR now.

Also, does it matter what size the vacuum lines I use are? If there was like a 1/8" line and I plugged a 1/4" line in, is it going to give the wrong reading or reference pressure??

Lastly, those 2 extra holes on the base of the manifold on the passenger side need to be plugged. What size fitting do you have to use? Part number?

Any help is more appreciated.

 

The vacuum fitting on the bottom of the TB should simply be plugged, theres no need for it on the HSR. Which two holes need to be plugged? The holes in the coolant crossover ? I have a newer casting with only the one hole in the crossover, and that was used for a 90* elbow for the heater hose. The other hole is for early style fan switches. I believe that one is a 1/2 NPT and the bigger one (for heater hose) is a 3/4 NPT. Those are just educated guesses. As far as using the wrong size lines, the size of the line is determined by where it goes. There is two 3/8 for the PCV and brake booster, a 1/8 for the regulator, and a 1/4 for the cruise control cluster. Hope this helps.

 

Just cap it off, as you noted it's not needed anymore.

It may affect vacuum output a little but I'm not sure enough to give you a definite answer. I'd just use whatever size tube was on there before.

I assume you're talking about the coolant passages? Those are 1/2" NPT....you can get plugs at Autozone, etc. in the "HELP" section.

 

IROCZZ3,

I've also got a question on my stealth ram install. For the fuel return line on the pass side, which 90 degree fitting do I need? My fuel rails are not in front of me, so dont know which fitting to order. I think I need Earl's 809106, but I'm not sure if thats the right one. Do I need a male end to thread into the back of the rail? If so, do you have the earls part # for that fitting? Thanks!

Scott

 

Another question for you guys. There is no way in hell that I am gonna be able to get my new accel coil mounted in the same place as the factory one would have been without heavy modifications. (Note: I have an 89 small cap distributor /remote coil car)

Question #1: Does the ignition coil need to be grounded/mounted to the motor/metal surface?? If so, can I mount it to the firewall? If not, I have another place in mind.

Question #2: How the hell do you guys make fuel lines to fit! This is gonna be a pain! I've read through all the articles but I don't want to have to wait to order parts and have them delivered a few days later. A cute little lady comes back from college this weekend and I wanna have my car ready to scare women and children by then!

 

My coil is just dangling by the valve cover, so no you don't have to but it would be a good idea.

-6 AN is the size that goes to the fittings coming out of both sides of the fuel rails. Buy steel braided hose with female -6 on the fuel rail ends, and run them to wherever you want to cut the stock fuel lines. I cut mine right down by the firewall and used a total of less than 6 feet of steel braided line. The connections of the cut stock lines to the other end of the steel braided line is this, just like the FAQ says: - (1) 5/16" compression fitting to -6 male AN
- (1) 3/8" compression fitting to -6 male AN

I only used one 90 degree fitting, connected to the regulator. I ruined the one in the kit, so I had to buy another and the size is -6 AN to 1/4" NPT.

 

I have an Accel divorced-style coil and it bolted to the HSR base with only a little clearancing on the mount. The HSR just has a small ridge that needs to be cleared. Maybe your coil is different, but thats how mine fit. As far as the lines, Id defintily recommend steel braided lines for fuel. Its just good insurance and it looks good as well. If you need them fast, get them next day air through Summit or Jegs. They are a PITA to put together, however, that was the most difficult part of the install for me. The lines come with instructions and pictures, and that expalins it better than I could here. I would recommend using two layers of tape (I used electrical) to keep the lines from fraying while you push the nut on the line. I also used a chamfer tool on them to make them go on easier.

 

But what if I don't want to cut the factory fuel lines? I want to just hook them to braided line and use the -6 fittings on the fuel rails. Is there a normal part besides the one from Earls to use to make a junction for the factory fittings?

But say I were to cut them, you can't just clamp the braided hose to the metal lines I assume?

 

Another thing, how did you guys get the factory MAF and intake tract to bolt up to the Stealth ram yet still go in the factory location? I can't get mine to do it. Do I need to get a longer bellows piece?? If so, where do I get it and whats the part number??

 

Yea, you could, if you wanted fuel spraying on a hot engine The fuel is under a fair amount of pressure on fuel injected engines, and trusting a hose clamp to hold it in probably isnt the best idea. I'll be using the special Earls fittings (9894DBH & 9894DBJ) to convert the stock hard lines to -6AN, then running 120 -6AN tube hose ends (812006) to run the hoses straight back, under the master cylinder, under the wiper motor, and finally to the fuel rail/regulator. The fitting that attaches to the regulator will be a 804606, -6AN 45 deg Hose end.

The other fitting for the pass. side rail is what is confusing me


Edit....



If the fitting threaded into the back of the pass. side rail is -6AN, then the fitting I listed above (809106) would fit just fine, although it looks like a straight (800106) fitting would work better in that area due to the distributor being right there.

 

THere should be an adapter you can get to attach to the factory hard line and allow a hose end for the other side. Putting steel braided lines together is not that hard. Use some tape, electrical or masking to keep the area cut from fraying. Contray to popular belief the red end that goes over the hose is reversed threaded. A drop of light oil and some screwing will install that end. After that is simple.

 

Connect the boot and the MAF to the upper filter assembly first. Then connect the boot to the T/B. There will be a little resistance as you pull and stretch the boot slightly to lock the assembly in place. If your boot / bellow is not shorter than the stock length then everything will be fine - as long as you make sure the clamps are good and tight.

 

Scott-
Holley supplies the straight male -6AN O-ring fitting that goes on the back of the passenger side rail....you can actually see it in the pic you posted above. I then used Earl's 804606, 45 deg female fitting to connect to it...piece of cake. BTW, the pressure (supply) line will connect here, and NOT the return. The return line connects to the 90 deg fitting (supplied) on the regulator.

I suppose you could use Earl's 809106, 90 deg fem fitting. It depends on how you want to route your fuel lines. I tried to route mine with as little turns and bends as possible. I hope that helps.

 

So what fitting would I need to connect the supplied 90 fitting to the braided hose? I'm a little confused after reading what you just wrote and what you wrote in a previous post about your setup (https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=169311) I want to run the AFPR like you did for easy adjustment. In the post I referenced, you said you used a 90 deg fitting on the pass. rail, and a 45 deg fitting on the regulator (visible in the pic). This should not be so friggin confusing , it seems so simple.

 

Oh, ok I also used Earls 804606 (45 deg) to connect the supplied 90 fitting to the braided hose.

Also I didn't use a 90 deg fitting on the pass fuel rail, I just mentioned that the supplied 90 deg fitting for the AFPR will clear the distributor if angled downward about 45 degrees...sorry for the confusion.

So to simplify what I did to make my fuel lines--Both my braided hoses have a 45 deg fitting on one end, and a straight fitting on the other.

 

OK, I'm following ya now. Thanks for clearing that up for me!

 

Yeah, I'm a visual learner myself. Confused as hell until I got tearing into it. After you do the install you're going to go "Damn that was simple, all the parts just like everyone said!" Then you'll give the next newbie the same advice we gave you, and he won't understand it either. Unavoidable I think, cause I just flat didn't get it until I saw all the fittings first hand. Good luck, you'll get it done!

 

See my problem here is that the closest parts store that supplies these fittings is about a 20 minute drive from my house. So IF I am making a trip out there I am gonna damn well e sure that I get the right parts. Thats a lot of driving for some fittings. I picked up the braided hose this morning, the Earls adapters are on order from Summit. and now I just need the last 4 fittings. This is getting fuggin expensive!!

 

Yep, I hear ya. Ya gotta pay to play

 

$130 worth of total parts to install the HSR here. The Felpro 1205's, the braided line, the Earl's fittings, water neck, hoses and the brass fittings all add up. Don't tear into it until you've got that extra money available.

 

That is true, but it is still cheaper than going with aftermarket runners and base at retail prices...

 

with much much better capabilities.

 

we just finished the holly stealth ram install and addressing the coil mount we made a bracket it was not hard out of a small pice of angled aluminum strip we got at lows and drilled 2 small holes in the top lip of the fire wall above the right hand valve cover and munted it that way it looks good dont have pic yet but it was simple suprisingly

 

Nice Nice, thanks for the info guys! I got mine almost completed, just waiting on the Earls fittings from Summit. We'll see what this thing feels like after I get it on the road. I'm gonna be using the ARAP.bin for a base in my tuning. I already edited the small stuff for the injectors and fan turn on temps. THe only thing that I don't like is the enormous amount of timing that .bin has. Friggin 48* of spark advance at like 4400 r's and 96 LV8 or somthing. Crazy!
Again, thanks!