Here's what I've come up with after doing some reading on the board. Still working on the mounting (zip ties) but functions good so far. Test drive coming up in a few minutes. Let me know what you think. Also cheap.... less than $30.00 and some elbow grease.

 

 

:lala:

 

looks very nice, where did you get the materials (ie, how would i go about making one)

 

If you have a Camaro, MAF or SD, you should cut your stock airbox and do some sort of ramair for about $65 with filters. If you have a MAF Firebird, the best thing to do is buy the SLP CAI box only for about $120 with filter. With a SD Firebird, I made this for $110 with filter. Your setup is good for flow, but isn't a true CAI.

 

The SLP CAI kit is $219.00. I made this for $32.00 total. And I know it isn't true CAI (hence the title "Cooler Air Intake") but anything is better than the stock box that my '89 GTA had. And I shoved it as close to the fender opening as I could which is where the SLP box draws it's air from. Mine is just not enclosed and at idle not moving may get some warmer air but when moving it is getting somewhat cooler air. When I got home I checked everything for tightness and the ducting was cool to the touch while the rest of the engine bay was smokin' hot. Gotta love FL and 92 deg days with 95% humidity!!

Thanks for the comments.

Just another cheap project.....the never ending pursuit of something to do to my car!!

 

I didn't quite like the look, so here's what I did last night. Cost me another $6.00 for the angled fitting but I think it looks much better.....for a first time fabricator!!!!

If anyone wants directions I'll write up something.

Here's the pics

Tim

1989 GTA 5.7 Auto 60k miles

 

Pic

 

Pic

 

Looks functional to me.

Good work!

 

More details where did you get the materials what did you use? I have been pondering the same thin since I got my tpi car about three weeks ago only I am planning on mounting the filter under the car but I was planning on using pvc till I saw yours.

 

the updated one looks great, nice job.

 

I tend to jump in on cheap CAI posts since I too made one. I got mild steel mandrel pipes from http://www.westcoastbending.com for $10 each plus shipping, then purchased reinforced silicone tubing from http://www.bakerprecision.com for around $23.99 per foot (minimum 1 foot required) and reducer for $25.99 (3.5" to 4" reducer for TB). The filter I had laying around from other projects... Cut the evap canister bracket and cut into the front fender area behind the bumper fairly easy with a sawsall.

Here's how it came out:

 

I have a speed density Camaro 5.7L 350 TPI so i just stuck a conial k&n filter right on the end of the Throttle body and then put a small slit in the hood about 4 inches wide or long side to side just about 2 inches in front of the filter beveled the hood up from the slit and smoothed and sanded it then repainted the whole hood black so i have a minature raised peice right above the intake like a minature 2002 SS hood bump.

it works quite well.

 

I want to know how u did that too! Have u noticed any gains with it?

 

I have no way to measure the gains but it does feel more aggressive then without the hood intake hole...

and I did it by taking the car to a metal worker and saying this is what i'm trying to do any suggestions.

he had all the metal cutting and bending tools there...

but it could be done yourself if you had someting to cut the hood with then just hammer it into shape... then just use some filler to smooth it out and sand it down...

 

The instructions are still coming but are pretty easy by just looking at the pics . I've just been busy with work lately and not had the chance to do it up right. I will list the basics/materials now though. Here goes....

(1) Generic 3" cone air fliter - Autozone $24.99 Part #8138

(1) 3" exhaust pipe 18in long - Autozone $5.49 Part #17628

(1) 3" Rubber PVC pipe connector - Lowe's $5.99 Part #1056-33
Made by Fernco

(1) 3" 90-deg Rubber PVC pipe connector - Lowe's $7.xx
Also made by Fernco. Can't read Part# but easy to find
*You will only use half (cut in half for 45-deg piece)
Can probably save some $ if you find a 45-deg but I
couldn't find one and my stock setup did not have one.

You'll use the stock piece from the throttle body to the MAF sensor and it will not need to be moved.

That's all you'll need. Mine is on a '89 GTA. If you look at the pic above you can pretty much see how to put the peices together. The pipe will have to be cut once but I don't have the measurement in front of me, but will get it if anyone needs it.

I tried to make the filter sit as close to the fender opening as possible. I did this by removing the plate that the original air filter can and charcoal canister mount to. You can then move the charcoal canister up next to the radiator using an existing hole and metal screw. The feet on the bottom of the canister are removable so I only used one after sliding it around to where I needed it to line up with an existing hole close to the radiator.

All the PVC connectors came with their own clamps so no need to buy them if you get the same parts I used.

Any other questions you have just email me or post it here. The exhaust pipe polishes up real good with only 2 coats of Mother's aluminum polish.

Total cost was right at $45.00 but I think it looks like a store bought piece and I've recieved many compliments and inquires about where to purchase.

Hope this is useful to someone since it is so long. (Sorry)

Good Luck

Tim

 

Well you are definitely on the right track with that setup. Is that a K&N filter? I would suggest using one. However you would be surprised how much hot air is still circulating in the engine bay with the hood closed. I would think it is pretty hard to ram cold air into that corner of the engine compartment without any mods to the body. I actually have the same setup in my '91 GTA but I used an extended cone K&N and actually cut the bottom portion of metal where the stock air intake canister rested. I then actually extended the air tube down under the car and attacked the air filter underneath. There is alot more air comming from up the underneath corner there. I needed to get under the car to attach the filter. It took some time but it can be done. Sorry don't have any pics right now.

 

I just didn't want to cut into the body. The SLP CAI that sells for $219 only has the box with the opening up against the fender well opening there, so I was just trying to get close. Anything is better than th stock air box! That thing is/was terrible....

I may eventually do what you have done to get some much cooler air. I just couldn't cut her with only 60k on the clock.

Thanks for the ideas. If you get some pics I'd like to see it.

Tim

 

where can u get a CAI for a sd system

 

SD is even easier than MAF since all you have to do is get a pipe and filter. Same basic configuration applies... Get filter near/in cool air, run a pipe to the TB, connect with silicone or rubber couplers.

 

so dont they make kits or nething that are made for our cars

 

SLP makes a CAI kit for our cars. It's $219.00 for the complete kit. Most performance shops can get them..like Jegs and the such.

Tim

 

yeh i knew slp made 1 i kinda liked the tubing that ran down into the wheel well with just the filter on the end. Kinda like a import cold air intake.Also since im converting from tbi wouldnt i have to have mine route to the driver side since my battery is on the pass side

 

My set-up is basically the same as SARswmr, the next thing I want to do is block the filter from the engine heat. This can be done with either ABS plastic or maybe thin aluminum, I am not sure which I will use yet. I am going to come off the fender in front of the radiator overflow and curve around beside the radiator, I will make a hole for the tubes running to the charcoal canister just big enough for them to pass through. Then the top edge will have something like tunk grommet so when the hood is closed there will be a flexible edge for the hood to seal against. I have seen similar set-ups on SS Impalas, and K&N sells them for trucks. I already have a template designed out of cardboard, I will post some pics when I get it done. It sounds like a lot but it shouldn't be to hard, I just dont want to cut on my car to get the filter to some cooler air. Here is a picture of one of the K&N's for a truck application:

 

theres nothing available that I like so far on the market.. the slp dual inlet looks cool but it ends up going into the stock bellows so how much more air can that flow?

i made an original ghetake but it got the better of me so i went bigger to 4" this time so it wouldnt slip and crush the overflow.. now to just get a 4" filter and find someone that can bend a pipe that big

btw.. it is easy to tuck the canistor there up by the rad support and use a couple bolts, a spacer to hold it down and some 3/8 vaccum line to extend the vent

little dark