Well, what would you do if you had to replace a stock L98 in your car?

Mine has lots of miles and has started to burn a lot of oil. I need to check compression yet, but it's probably on its last leg.

Not sure if I should have it rebuilt, buy a used engine, or buy a crate engine with good warranty. Yes, money is definately an issue.

I want a 350ci (or 355) motor capable of consistant 12s N/A with very good tuning, able to handle an occassional 100hp nitrous spray. Also a daily driver.

Will probably use an HSR, LT1, or possibly even Ram Jet intake if I use Vortec heads. Although I'm not sure if Vortec heads would flow enough for what I'm looking for.

PROM tuning will be available.

What would you do?

 

Well...depends...

Do you have the time to pull your engine and have the bottom end rebuilt? If not (like this is your only car) then either a crate engine, or other option is needed...i/e buy a shortblock and have it built for your application.

My personal opinion is I'd rather rebuild what I have, than scrounge the yards looking for a good block.

 

Yeah, id do the same. Save big $$$ and have a reat feelin of accomplishment at the end! Pull her out, magnaflaux, hot-tank, punch it .030 over, new cam bearings scate crank etc. find some worked heads, or have urs work OR try and get some L98 aluminum vette heads, gettem work port-polish, new valve springs 3 angle valve job, nice fat cam watch the compression tho if ur gunna spray. Nice ram TPI intake get an electric w/p for her, gears, gutted cats, LTs u know....

 

The first sentence and the last 2 contradict. To do all that you're going to have to dump some serious money in it.
On another note...If you use NO2 any warrenty that came with the engine will be null and void.

 

As far as money goes, I just didn't want anyone telling me to buy a VERY expensive crate motor or AFR heads, Miniram, SC, etc.

A good friend of mine works at a GM dealer so I may be able to get parts at dealer price. That's why I'm considering the vortecs and Ramjet. Although it looks like the Ramjet may take too much customizing for me, especially since nobody else seems to be going that route.

I DO NOT feel comfortable rebuilding an engine. And I think I would trust a crate engine or even a used engine more than an engine someone else rebuilt. I don't know of anyone in my area who has put 100,000+ miles on a rebuilt engine.

I know I may sound like a dumb newbie asking how to run 10s, but I don't think a motor capable of 12s is too outrageous considering there are LT1s doing it with stock heads & stock cam.

 

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the GM 350HO crate motor.
It's a 4bolt full roller block. Clean up your TPI, slap it on.

This new crate motor will last forever if properly taken care of.
Once you've got her installed, start saving for a procharger - then you're laughing!

 

IM doing the same thing Brian. Since you dont want to dive into a motor yourself definately the best way is a crate engine like everyone else said. Personally I think you can build a better performing engine if it is built by you or a close friend. If you got some friends that are into engine building then ask them to help you out with it. The easiest way to run 12's consistantly is probably with a 383 or larger. It can be done with a 355 or similar but just easier with a bigger cube engine. As far as heads, Pro Action heads are very good for the money and they flow really well. The HSR will be an awesome intake to get because it is cheap and performs well too. My L98 went a few weeks ago due to burning alot of oil etc and now Im doing a rebuild too. What I was planning on doing was letting the engine slowly deteriorate while building another engine in the garage. My engine blew way before I thought it would and now Im in the predicament of not having enough money to do exactly what I want. If I were you, either get a crate engine and slap it in there or find a friend who can help you build one. That will be alot more fun because you'll learn alot and possibly be comfortable enough to build some more engines in the future. If it is your daily driver, I'd recommend getting one ready to put in within like a few days time or something or if you got another car, just pull the engine and start on it. Hope I helped some. Good luck.

 

You can buy a ZZ4 crate motor for what it would cost to build a decent 383 stroker. Plus it is a brand new motor with a warranty from GM.

 

Or he can get a 383 short block assembled from Speed-O-Motive for less then the ZZ4 GM engine.

 

That would be the biggest mistake of his life.
John you should check into the history of these guys before you reccomend them, they are terrible. Do a search!

 

I still say go with the ho 350 or the zz4.
Can't beat GM crate motors for durability - unless you fully trust an engine shop with this type of investment. Do it once and do it right!

If I don't end up picking up a Turbo Trans Am, I'll be dropping a crate motor into my 89 GTA.

Just my opinion though.

 

i have a machinist/shop that i trust and they do superb work at reasonable cost.

answer: i will have mine re-built. arp bolts. etc...

 

Scoggin Dickey is also an option worth entertaining.
The have a 357 hp motor built for TPI's for $3,3xx

 

GMPP also has a 383 Truck engine out there. I read a story about about it in Chevy High Perf. mag. I can't find the issue right now (searching through years of back issues takes days!!). I also can't remember what it put out. I do know that a 383 combined with decent (read:affordable) heads, cam, and TPI will make a 12 sec. NA motor that is reliable and fun to drive everyday. Also since its a GMPP engine, you get the peace of mind that it has some kind of warranty and quality in build. Just my two cents...

 

You get a ZZ4 crate motor.

Well, if you are going to buy all the engine parts and build the engine yourself, then you can do way better than a ZZ4 for the same price. However, if you are going to pay someone else to build a motor, they cannot beat the ZZ4 power, and reliability for the price.

In addition, the ZZ4 is TPI FI and computer friendly, plus everything in the motor is brand new with 0 miles whereas a rebuild would utilize some old parts. Just some things to consider... However, do whatever suits YOUR needs.

 

I thought the zz4 required modification to accomodate the tpi intake manifold.. maybe i'm getting my motors mixed up...

Is the zz4 the one with the aluminum l98 heads and one piece rear seal/center bolt covers??

 

You can get a ZZ4 partial engine which is another name for a short block. Then you can put your heads or better ones on it and a cam of your choice. Whenever you start getting into building or buying an engine, the words "budget" and "inexpensive" start to have a new meaning!!

Look at the GMPP engines for the greatest bang for your bucks.

Also like someone mentioned, if you start playing with power adders then don't expect a warranty to hold water...

Good luck

 

Hey guys, I plan on an engine swap sometime in the near future too. I want to go with the ZZ4 shortblock and work my original L98 heads and TPI intake. Now, will my stock intake and heads just bolt up to this engine? Also, I know that this shortblock (and working heads/manifold) is somewhat illegal to do here in the great state of California, but would they be able to tell at the smog inspection that I've done this? Thanks for the help. Later.

 

Your heads and intake will bolt right on.

As for you emissions compatability, you need to either contact the DOT out there or check around with people that have swapped engines. I don't see why it would matter what short block is in the car, but the smog police have their own views of how the world should be...

 

GM sells a 383 shortblock as well for about $3100. I have a 350 roller shortblock for sale if you are interested. It ran 12.8 @ 108 with HSR, XR276HR cam, & AFR heads. Email me ricktpi@hotmail.com