In the latest dealings with my car I've been told there is a possibility that the oil pressure switch could be thre culprit. i've been looking online and really can;t find much in reguards to information on this topic.
I'd really like to know what this switch does and why a malfunctioning switch could give me running, stall problems as well as problems with a blown ECM fuse. Anything at all would be a huge help. Thanks in advance guys.
Also, where the heck is this thing?

 

On top of the oil pressure sender back behind the distributor.

 

The OP switch is in parallel with the fuel pump enable relay so that in the event the relay fails, the car will keep on driving, it will just be harder to start since the fuel system will not prime upon 'key on' without a relay to power it. Observe:

 

Hey, I went to Auto Zone to buy an Oil Pressure Switch and they handed me the Oil Sending Unit? Whats up with that? I was under the impression that they were two totally different things? Am I an idiot or did Auto Zone screw up?

 

Was it a 1 wire "sender" or a 3 wire? The 3 wire is the sender and switch in one unit, the 1 wire is a stand alone sender.

 

Ah, that could be it. I won;t know til tonight, but I'm pretty sure it;s a three wire deal. I just replaced the sender a year ago and I've only driven the car 2K miles since then.

 

greetings eyerock89,

If you are having problems with the ecm fuse blowing, you might want to check the wiring going into your fuel pump relay to see if you have any bare wires that might be shorting out. I had this happen to me and I thought I had another bad fuel pump. If you are interested, I have the GM service manual for the 1989 camaros that shows the location of the oil switch. Also, I have found in the past that these aftermarket switches do not always have the correct connector on them.

The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Well, no luck so far. I disconnected the Oil switch to take it out of the circuit and the ECM fuse is still blowing. I know for a fact that the F/P relay harness is good (just replaced it). Same thing with the relay.

 

When does the fues blow? Switch on engine off, or engine on, or sometime afte the engine has been running for a while?

You should check all relay coil resistance any at 20 or less ohms can burn out the drivers, but it definately sounds like a short to me.

Put, a test light between the positive battery connector and the it's battery post. It should light dim for direct system drains (clock, anti-theft, ecm memory, etc when the ignition is off.) If it lights up real bright then there is a short. Start pulling fuses, or disconnecting systems until the test light dims.

If the ecm fuse blows as soon as you turn the ignition on then you'll have to pull fuses, or disconnecting systems first and then connect the test light.

 

rgarcia63 - This is all with the ignition off. I'm talking about the ECM fuse located next to the battery in the engine compartment.
Fuse blows as soon as I connect the f/p relay to the f/p relay harness. I can't tell for sure, but when the fuse does blow, the arc seems to be coming from either the red or the orange wire on the relay harness.

 

Eyerock89, there are five wires going to your fuel pump relay.

PIN A: (tan/wht) goes to fuel pump oil pressure sender switch, the maf relay, fuel pump, and pin b2 at ecm connector.

PIN B: (blk/wht) goes to engine ground.

PIN C: (dk grn/wht) goes to fuel pump relay control , pin a1 at ecm connector.

PIN D: (red.blk) goes to pin g on ALDL (fuel pump prime.

PIN E: (orn) goes to 20 amp in-line fuse no. 2 and then to pin b1 (battery) on ecm connector. This wire branches out at connector s163 and goes to the fuel pump oil pressure sender switch and the air diverter valve control, pin c2 & pin c16 (battery) on the ecm connector. NOTE: PIN E is always hot with battery connected.

If you are getting a spark and blowing this fuse whenever you connect the fuel pump relay to the connector. It would seem that something is makiing a connection between PIN D & PIN E of the fuel pump relay connector. Also, since you say that you just replaced the fuel pump relay harness, you might check to see if you have it wired right.

The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Trickster - thats what I don;t understand. I actually got it started right when I replaced the connector....cranked right up. Since then, I can;t get a fuse to stay in there. I did fiddle around alot with the wires near the battery...I wonder if something over there is grounding out......