I have an 88 GTA w/ 350 TPI.Sometimes when i go to start my car after its been sitting for a while i get a nice big puff of bluish smoke.After a second or so the puff goes away.I've heard its probally the usual,such as rings or valves.The car runs great.And its not constantly smoking.Its just the big puff at start up or after its been sitting for a while then its fine.My question is,how long do you guys think my car has till the engines shot,as long as im easy on the car.Someone who was an auto mechanic told me that since its not smoking bad it could be just one set of piston rings that are shot.He also said slick 50 might seal up the problem or atleast stop the smoking.Thanks to anyone who can help....Al in NJ

 

I don't think it will hurt anything to leave it the way it is.
I have an 87 IROC with the 350 and the car only has 20,000 miles and my car will do the same puff of smoke when it starts.
Not sure how many miles you have on your engine but it probably good for quite a few more. I wouldn't worry about it but that's just my 2 cents.

 

It's probably the valve seals. My GTA did the same thing at 52,000 miles. Replaced the valve seals and now at 170,000 miles with no smoke.

I doubt that you will find any magic snake oil to fix the problem. I'd just replace the seals.

 

Its your valve seals, i think 99% of our cars have or had this problem.

Its doesnt hurt a thing, except your pride

 

my car has been like that for a year now


it sucks for the people that walk behind my car when i start it lol

 

I have had valve seals to cause that and a injector bleed down
to the same thing, my 85 vette does it sometimes maybe once
a month and its got 164,000 miles on it and still runs strong.

 

Are the valve seals hard to replace and are they expensive?

Thanks, Al in NJ

 

If you can't stand it - find it and fix it. It MOST LIKELY valve seals. If you're ok with it, wait until you have to pull the heads off for another reason and then address it - it's 99% harmless.

 

No not really depends on your skill level there not expensive do some research you should
be able to do it in a afternoon.LATER

 

I am very happy to know the valve seals arent hurting the engine.Now to fix the problem do i have to replace the valves?And if so how hard is it to do.Ive never done this before but id give it a shot.Also,would this be a good time to put on some after market rockers?And do i have to take off the head to do the rockers?I heard i dont have to take off the head to do the valves.

 

And by the way,does the whole valve get replaced or just the seal?.....Thanks...Al

 

you asolutely do not have to change the valves ..and be careful if you want to change your rocker arms...you don't want to increase the lift too much..create driveability issues if not adjusted corrected....but we won't get into that
you can do it by taking the head off and using a hand spring compressor to remove the retainers...or you can get ahold of an air valve spring compressor..in which case you can do it without removing the head itself
and the seals are very easy....just remove the retainer ...keepers then the spring and you'll either have umbrella seals or O rings...either way....replace them and slap it all together
and it is harmless to a degree...if the seal is screwed up on an intake valve you can burn small amounts of oil over time if its that bad cause the vacuum will suck the oil down the guide and into the chamber

 

When your seals are shot,can it cause your car to begin running rough at all or maybe cause your plugs to foul up at all...Thanks...

 

Valve seals can and will foul plugs, depending on how bad they are. I had a problem with 7 and 8 fouling out in a few short weeks my valve seals were so bad. I bought the umbrella type seals from advance auto ('bout 45-60 bucks for the parts, including valve cover gaskets) and did my valve seals in an afternoon, on the car. Of course, I was working as a mechanic at the shop at the time, so could use all the cool stuff from work to make the job easier. The only real special tools you will need is a valve spring compressor (for working with the head installed) and a way to keep the valve from dropping into the cylinder when you pull off the retainers et. al. I used a leakdown tester to pressurize the cylinder I was working on at the time to keep the valves in place. Worked really well. Just have to be careful that air pressure does not spin the engine, and cause you to lose the pressure...... (read that as: time to pull the head, and retreive the valve you just dropped into the cylinder...... bummer) Turn the engine so that the cylinder you want to play with is in firing position, pressurize the cylinder, wait about two minutes to make sure it is not going to move on you, and then off you go. A fun job, and well worth the effort. No more smoke at startup, plugs last a lot longer, and, as a side effect..... the valve covers dont leak anymore either..... LOL

Have fun.

 

the umbrella seals like PLOEGI said are great to get i have them on my car and i beat it and she doent smoke. and another think is it's a gm product they smoke if not there is something wrong with it

 

Or you can use the old tried and true nylon rope method.

That way you don't even need an air compressor.

Jake

 

i tell people its one of my cylinders leaking oil or crap. its really the seals.

 

Ok, I was just about to begin a topic about this very thing. I HAVE AN ANSWER to this problem.

This is a common problem to all GM small blocks as they get older. I've tried just about EVERYTHING--the "no smoke" additives, Restore8, Rislone, etc.(you get the point). Nothing worked. Afterall, they just thicken the oil. And with poorly seated seals, oil of any thickness will still slip through. I even tried the synthetic oils, too. No changes.

I've even tried all of the "miracle" engine friction reducers, too(which is also an interesting topic for a discussion).

But here it is... about a year ago, I began using Valvoline MaxLife oil. And it's been so loooooooooong since I've seen any smoke, that I'd completely forgotten I ever had a problem! I just remembered ealier this week, lol, and I've been meaning to post it.

I run 20W-50. But I live in southern California, where I can get away with that all year 'round. But I have no doubt that 10W-40 would work great for everyone else.

I remember shortly after Valvoline came out with this product, the label wore a "badge" on it boasting of being named one of the best new products of that(whatever) year. Well, IT'S TRUE! GET IT! USE IT! LOVE IT! IT WORKS!

 

Is MaxLife synthetic?

Jake

 

No, MaxLife is not a synthetic. But like all other oils, it mixes with synthetics.

 

be careful and watch your oil levels too or you'll run low and spin a bearing (ask me how I know)....

 

I jsut found an article on how to replace your valve seals, if you have CHP from Feb '01 there is an article on how to replace them to stop your blue smoke

 

Which seals are the umbrella type?The intake valve seals or the exhaust?

 

I just got my intake valve seals and exhaust valve seals from pepboys. They had the intakes valve stem seals in but, the exhaust valve stem seals were special order. And the exhaust stem seals look different from the intake stem seals. The exhaust stem seals look like the umbrella type and im guessing thats why they were special order. The intake valve seals look like regular seals and the intake valve seals are blue.Is this normal for both sets to look like a different style???Cause another words both sets look just like that pic,both different lol.

 

Well its finally done.I had the new valve seals installed.It took the guy about 8 or 9 hours to do.He had to take off my alternator and remove my smog or emissions stuff just to get the passenger side valve cover off.Since he had the valve covers off i hit them up with some Blue high temp paint and they came out really good. Im happy the way they look for being centerbolt valve covers.So anyways the cars running great and there is no more smoke at all now.And the guy charged me $120 and i supplied him with all the parts.

 

you need a valve job. You could replace just the seals but they could start leaking oil a short time later. The valve guides are probably worn causing the seals to go bad.