ok, here comes the weirdness.

having idling problems, discovered that the fix was to screw around with the maf sensor plug. here's the odd part.

1. when i push up on the wires at the very base of the connector, the engine stalls!

2. when the wires are centered, the idle is high (1300 to 1500) and won't come down.

3. when i pushed down on the wires, the engine's idle comes down to where it is supposed to be, and other than an initial surge when it is first started (even warm), it slows down to the correct idle. sometimes i have to rev it, and it will then drop to standard idle.

i have rebuilt the wiring harness after discovering this (including the male end of the plug) and this has not changed the scenario at all.

could the tines in the maf female socket have a broken solder connection or something on the board? does anyone have a schematic for a maf? I am an electrical technician, and would have no problem fixing it, but as it is an integral part of my car (which i do not have the money to replace right now) i would like to have advance knowledge of the internals of this piece before i dismantle it. if anyone has any ideas i would appreciate it. thanks!

Jason

 

Did you try it unplugged as well? I'd concern myself more with the harness end than the MAF itself. Test continuity with the wires bent at various angles. As for the MAF, I've only had the bottom open in three and two of the three didn't work after playing around in em. Maybe do a search with MAF and VADER b/c I know he has replaced the wire in the damn things and I've had some pretty extensive posts with him on varying subjects with regard to the MAF. Don't know if they are all still on here, but that man has some ‘intimate’ knowledge of the things.

 

i continuity tested all wires, then just to be sure i replaced them all. i twisted them all up and still had full conductivity, no breaks. as for checking how it runs unplugged, it goes into the appropriate limp mode when the maf is disconnected. i have searched out maf stuff, and found nothing to help me with this one. they must be gone.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=47488

Please don't take this the wrong way, this is for everyone in general. For the last month or so, I have had no problems using search, yet when I tell people to search for something specific, they never find it. I then go and try and find it with little problem. Are people just not looking? Or do we need to have a tutoring on searching? I'm stumped, what gives?

Anyhoo, I'll see if I can get the helmeted one to pop in here.

 

The pins on the harness are "female", they can and will spread out a bit if you aren't careful, and if you keep torquing the connector around on the MAF. As they spread out they will get poor contact and cause problems. just remove the connector and use a jeweler's screwdriver to "pinch" them back tight and install the connector on the sensor.

 

Bent pins in the Maf conection.

 

DJP, Morley, and (last, but not at all least) Red Devil are probably on the right track.

I'd be more inclinded to believe in a problem with the wiring harness connector than the connection pins at the MAF. The pins in the MAF are very substantially connected and solidly retained inside the housing.



Here are the power and burnoff circuits for the MAF.



Make sure you have a reliable 12VDC supply and ground on both ground pins.

If you believe you have an intermittent connectiuon problem, it may be the sensing wire in the MAF itself. You can tap-test the sensor to help determine if that is the case. With the MAF mounted and connected, lightly tap on the outer housing with a couple fingers. If the engine stumbles and codes in cadence with the tapping, you may have a failng sensor hot wire. I've replaced one (hot wire, that is), but personally, wouldn't even mess with it and would try another MAF, preferably a thick film type instead of the hot wire sensor. If the tapping doesn't cause a stumble, you may need to repair or replace the MAF connector (solder and heat-shrink ONLY, please).

 

i would have to politely disagree though. i have replaced the wires in the harness, and the recievers inside the connector (and yes, i ALWAYS solder and shrinkwrap). this has generated no change.

the odd thing about all of this is i have yet to get an engine code. nothing registering at all. even when it stalls, i get nothing.

 

oh, and thank you for the schematic.

 

Have you by chance swapped out the relays yet?

 

no, that i have yet to do. i will check them out tomorrow.