Hey Everyone, i had a few questions about the holley stealth ram, i went to put on my thermostat housing, and for some reason, the stock TPI one is aiming straight to the drivers side or forward to the passenger side, do i need to use the older style chevrolet housing? also i need a throttle cable bracket they give you a part number and say its a bracket made for the corvette. i need one but id have to wait 3-4 days for that, and this is my daily driver car.....(i dont have a stock TPI bracket laying around) also if im not mistaken there is no reason why this intake wont work on my 87 electronics car correct?( i have the EGR and CS injector eliminated)

 

Yes you need to use the old style housing. Or you can buy a mr. gasket one with part number 2661. I used the stock 85 tpi bracket. I believe you would have to modify any others except the corvette one. The intake will be fine for your car.

 

alright cool, i went and overnighted the bracket. and i might just use the old housing from when my car was carbed.

 

Thats good. I have found that I am going back to a cast iron thermostat housing because the mr gasket one is warping slightly and leaks under high rpms. Its a piece of crap.

 

Same problem here. Which manu/part # are you getting?

 

I can get one from an 84 carbed camaro at the auto parts store but they all seem to have two holes in them for the heater hoses etc and they look like a space alien bubble. I dont want one with holes in it cuz I connect my stuff to the intake and wtr pump. SO I am still looking.

 

why would you need a new cable bracket? if your car had TPI on it then the stock TPI bracket should bolt right on.

 

get one for a 88 - 92 gm serpentine vehicle. they have no holes whatsoever. i used them and they work like a charm on hsr conversions.

 

Why did you ditch the LT1 intake thats in your sig??

-- Joe

 

because thats what messed up my engine, the person that did it and sold it to me had the distributor base and hole was wrong and it didnt sit in the oil pump shaft all the way and ruined 2 cam lobes and contaminated the whole engine. the car never had a TPI intake, i bought a TPI harness and computer ect. and i swaped from carb to "TPI" in a sence and used the LT1 intake. i fixed the problem kinda but the whole intake is kinda blah, so i am offloading it if anyone wants it let me know ill sell it to them for 140 shipped comes with intake rails and remote thermostat housing and i can supply the coolant lines even tho they are not the 90* ones from napa. also the coolant ports are in the front. also about the 2 holes in the thermostat housing, one is for a coolant sensor and the other was some kind of smog that had vacuum lines going to it(no idea why but ok) thats what it was like on my camaro when i had the carb. 305 in it. i was looking for the same angle ect. one but chrome or something better than the dumb ones i have. but i dont know. this should be fine. also anyone else with the HSR notice that the TB holes are mounted more tward the drivers side? or is it just mine? well i hope everyone elses is like that because it looks kinda funky, ill have to take pics.....

 

Yes they are mounted more towards the driver side. I had a bbk 58mm on there and it fit fine, then I switched to holley 58mm just cuz it looked better and matched the system.

 

I will check again but I am sure I looked at the 92. It still had the holes.

 

i really need to get an aftermarket TB, im not sure how much its going to help but i know itll also look alot better on the car.

 

hey picard, you ever run your car at the track? if so what did you run?

 

Not yet...still making modifications under the hood. Right now I am building a ford 9" that will have 4.0 gears. I may take it down then. Eventually I will finish modding the engine etc. and move to the suspension, interior and new paint. Its been a long slow process cuz I like it that way. No fun to just go out and buy a pro streeter and take it to the track. I wanna do it all myself. I also need to get to a dyno. I have a few small chip issues cuz I think the people who burned it for me made a few mistakes. BY the time I am done with this 500hp setup I will be ready for the new engine (850-1000hp). Its already been built. I am projected to run high 11's with the setup I have now. Cant wait to try it.

 

Wow, i was expecting a more streetable setup, lol something less then 1k hp but hey, its all up to you, my car is my daily driver so i dont really expect to push out alot of hp, i just hope to get it running today..... good luck with your project.

 

looks like the captain got himself a new experimental warp drive and now ready to race the borg....


nice engine whew..... 800 hp

 

The setup I have now is 500hp and very streetable. I drive it everyday. I believe I can make the next motor streetable as well at 850hp. It will be difficult to keep it tuned as it will have a much bigger cam than I have now.

 

well my engine is easily streetable, thats the kinda setup i was thinking lol but 850 on the street would be a little overkill......lol not really, id love it!

 

i got my car running, now i need to get a fuel pressure gauge and see what kind of pressure im running, anyone have any suggestions on a decent gauge for it?

 

Liquid filled.....

 

is that the only suggestion you have, or the only thing that is important?

 

if you are attaching it to the rail, a liquid filled will keep the needle from bouncing around. i think accel makes a gauge on a metal lien that attaches directly to the test port. don't forget to stop in at www.stealthram.com and say hi to the other HSR owners.

 

Cool, i guess ill have to stop in, thanks for the suggestion!

 

ok can anyone give me a part number of a liquid filled fuel pressure gauge that will work on the HSR? also i need to know what direction to turn the adjustment for more/less fuel pressure! im running dangerously lean right now.

 

in raises pressure. out lowers pressure.

 

hey thanks man! by any chance have you noticed people getting code 42 when they first put it on without adjusting it? because after i put it on i got that. and i changed the ESC module and the ignition module and its still the same....also anyone have that PT.# on the fuel pressure gauge that will mount on there easily?

 

Had the same problem, mine leaked horribly. I bought a Summit-brand polished alum. swivel style for around $25 and it seals fine. No holes either.

 

You might want to include a 90 degree elbow, male 1/8 NPT to female 1/8 NPT with your Summit order, you won't fit a gauge on there without it.

When I first installed the HSR, I was getting a problem where it was running super fat (dripping) at idle, and very lean in the high end. After I installed the gauge I found out the intake shipped with the pressure set at 35 PSI. I'm running 44 PSI now with the chip set up for the 24# SVO injectors... everything's great.

Here's a pic, if you just get the elbow for the gauge it'll point to the passenger's side fender.

 

alright ill do that, but im wondering why i drive the car i start off with a check engine light and then it goes away after about 15 min of driving. i checked the code before and it was a code 42. no idea why and i cant seem to fix the problem ib ought a new ESC module, plugs wires, ignition module. and its still there, but i am going out now to check the codes again, ill have to reset them probably.

 

I got mine for 50 bucks from street and performance. The web site is www.hotrodlane.cc Phone number is 479-394-5711. It is part number 20 in the fuel injection section.

 

I found the part number for the cast iron housing. I bought it from Carquest. All other stores had the openings for heater lines. I didnt want holes in it. Thats why it was hard to find. Carquest part number is W1595.

 

Sweet, thanks.

 

I now have another question, its the same with the first setup but i had problems with my Adj FPR and i sent in for a new one but it seemed with both i couldnt get the O-ring to seal where it mounts in the fuel rail. how am i supposed to work around this problem? bigger/thicker O-ring?

 

if it's two in a row, might be fuel rail hole made too large where regulator slips in.

 

its probably as simple as a thicker o-ring....