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IAC motor adjust procedure doesn't work

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Old Jul 24, 2004 | 01:28 PM
  #1  
vernw's Avatar
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
IAC motor adjust procedure doesn't work

I've gone thru the entire procedure twice now, but my 383 SuperRam w/Holley 52mm TB 91 Formula will not idle at all with the IAC motor disconnected.

I went thru the paper clip in, key on 60 seconds, EST disconnected (although this doesn't impact me either way), paper clip out, and then it will not idle at all. Will run, but not idle (dies). Have adjusted screw in and out in half turn increments from stop to stop, it just will not idle at all w/o the IAC connected electrically.

Am I missing something here? I even took the IAC out, screwed in the pintle all the way to the bottom (which left less than a 1/2" gap between the back side of the pintle and the IAC body front edge) and then tried it a 3rd time. Won't idle.

So, what am I doing wrong?


- Vern
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Old Jul 24, 2004 | 05:27 PM
  #2  
Charlz B.'s Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: South Charleston, WV
Car: 87 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
I've had the same problem recently. I turned my min air screw up quite a bit, and the engine would run at about 800 rpm, then I backed it down til it died. Turn the screw a back a bit and you should be ok.

But what do I know? Good luck, hopefully someone else has a better answer than I.
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Old Jul 24, 2004 | 05:38 PM
  #3  
razor's Avatar
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From: Saskatchewan
Car: 1992 GTA
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Are you backing the IAC motor off before doing this??? Make sure when you jump the A and B terminal that your pintle is retacting. When you jump the terminals(with the key on) go to the TB and place your hand on the IAC. You should feel it clicking. Allow 30 seconds with the key on to fully retract the pintle. Now unplug the IAC. THEN shut the key off and remove the jumper(paperclip or whatever you used) Then turn the car back on and try to get it to idle off the set screw.
If you still have that missfire it might cause this problem too.
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Old Jul 24, 2004 | 05:47 PM
  #4  
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Vernw,

I don't know what to tell you Man, I just did mine last week following those procedures and didn't have any problems with it. Did you get your engine up to a good operating temperature first. I drove mine about 30 miles before I attempted doing it. Add to that what Razor mentioned about your misfire problem.

Last edited by Trickster; Jul 24, 2004 at 05:50 PM.
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Old Jul 29, 2004 | 12:35 AM
  #5  
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From: Indiana
Car: 91 Firebird Formula
Engine: ZZ4 fast burn with TPIS mini ram.
Transmission: Viper T10 6 spd.
Axle/Gears: 3.73
I had the same problem last weekend. Car would start but would not idle. I managed to get it to idle at 550rpm's in drive,fully warmed up with everything connected.but would not stay running with the IAC unpluged.TPS set at 0.543 volts. I never have had any idle problems but wanted to check stuff anyway.
My TPS was set at 0.437 volts before I adjusted it. The car runs fine and everything but I would like to know why it doesnt idle with the IAC disconnected. Now for a stupid question. Would my car run fine even with a bad IAC? Do you think it's not retracting because of maybe carbon build up and preventing the car from ideling?
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Old Jul 29, 2004 | 09:14 AM
  #6  
vernw's Avatar
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
The procedure isn't my problem apparently

Man, I don't know Bill. I never could get mine to work, but I found out why ......

I have a "dry hole" (D*MN!)

My intermittent misfire is actually more like constant. I pulled plugs over the weekend, and #2 was clean as a whistle. It wasn't igniting anything. Checked the plug, the resistance had dropped to about a fourth of the normal level (I checked all the plugs before putting them in 10 days ago). So, ohmed out the wire and it's fine, put in a new plug, and still had the miss.

Last night I pulled the plug wire and put another plug on it laying up by the strut tower and started her up - spark looks good so distributor/ignition is not the problem. Futzed around and finally got a compression guage into #2, and the compression is fine as well.

So that leaves the injector for #2 or the electrical connection going to it. I've been running injector cleaner thru it (Berrymans B12 and Techroline) for half a tank and it hasn't solved it yet.

So I guess I'll be pulling the SuperRam this weekend so I can get to the injector and connector. Hopefully a connector just came loose, but with the SuperRam and tall valve covers (roller rockers)you can't even SEE the injectors on #2,4,5, or 7. Hopefully the new injectors I bought from a guy on this forum will be here by Saturday so I can swap them in for my curent Holley injectors at the same time....

The saga continues, will post final resolution - if I find one.....


- Ye Old Phat Phart, Vern
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Old Jul 29, 2004 | 09:19 AM
  #7  
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From: Dallas/Fort-Worth
Car: 1988 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI (L98)
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.45
Vern,

If you think that the power to the injector is not working, switch the plug with #4. Then see if the injector on #2 is working. If it is good, then the pintle might be stuck in the #2 injector.

Also, are these new injectors? I haven't been following your build up if they are.
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Old Jul 29, 2004 | 09:37 AM
  #8  
vernw's Avatar
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
Can't do that wiring switch very easily, I can't even see the connections without pulling the SuperRam or the tall valve cover. Pulling the valve cover requires dropping the heater valve, air pump stuff, AC compressor, etc., and only takes an hour or 2 to do

That still might be worth trying before pulling the SuperRam off, I'll have to think about that. You may have a better idea than I first thought..... guess I'll pull the valve covers and try to get to those connectors.

As for the injectors, I thought they were "pretty much new": I had an 86 Suburban with a GMPP 454HO and Holley Commander 950 MPFI system on it. It came with the 24# injectors to begin with. I ran it a few days and upgraded to 30# injectors on that one (it then dyno'ed at 455HP, 505TQ) and saved the 24#'s in the original clamshell pack. So when I swapped in the 383 last month for my 305, I decided to use those "almost new" Holley 24# injectors I've been saving for a couple of years or so. So they had a couple of weeks run time, and a couple of years of storage in their factory package.

Maybe I should have used some other ones.....
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Old Jul 29, 2004 | 11:44 AM
  #9  
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From: Dallas/Fort-Worth
Car: 1988 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI (L98)
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.45
I would have used them too.

Is it possible that when the runners were put on that the injector plug got knocked loose? Try to push it back on and see if it starts running a little bit. I know the SR runners are a pain to get in.

Also, do you have an automotive stethoscope? If so, you can listen to see if the injector is ticking (working) or not. This is a lot easier than taking off that intake.

Process of elimination basically.
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 03:09 PM
  #10  
vernw's Avatar
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!

Once I got the SuperRam plenum off the car, the problem was obvious.

Connector to #2 injector had worked loose. Too bad that couldn't be seen w/o pulling the plenum. Guess we didn't get that one pushed on all the way so it would lock on when we installed the motor the end of May.

Car runs a LOT better now! Amazing how adding a cylinder to your motor does that.....

Busy tonight with eldest daughter's 25th birthday, but will re-try the IAC adjustment procedure tomorrow night. Will probably work fine now....

THANKS for all the responses, input, and suggestions!!!!


- Ye Old Phat Phart, Vern
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