compression check
01-03-2005, 03:33 PM
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Car: 1989 Formy droptop/88 Deville
Engine: L98 350 TPI
Transmission: factory RWD, WS6 susp
compression check
How did any of you go about a compression check and approx cost?
I'm not too adept at major repairs so I'd like to field some insights as I now have rubber Felpros for my valve covers and about to address engine's coolant leak.
Bill
I'm not too adept at major repairs so I'd like to field some insights as I now have rubber Felpros for my valve covers and about to address engine's coolant leak.
Bill
01-04-2005, 01:32 PM
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Car: 1989 Formy droptop/88 Deville
Engine: L98 350 TPI
Transmission: factory RWD, WS6 susp
I'm still not clear on getting this involved without first addressing my manifold or valve cover leak that is evident. The white exhaust was specified by mechanic and I think it was stated some time ago that a cold start usually results in white smoke before it changes. What exactly is the right color exhaust and can you check for tailpipe deposits? I'll be looking at my oil again too
(dipstick, and possibly changing that. Right now the manifold is wet from the winter weather and the leaking and smokes while hot, under the hood
I drove a distance at speeds of 55/60MPH, the temp stayed at quarter way on the guage, but raises quickly if just left to sit
Bill
(dipstick, and possibly changing that. Right now the manifold is wet from the winter weather and the leaking and smokes while hot, under the hood
I drove a distance at speeds of 55/60MPH, the temp stayed at quarter way on the guage, but raises quickly if just left to sit
Bill
01-04-2005, 05:51 PM
#4
White "smoke" (steam) in Minne is completely normal this time of year. The exhaust can emit visible steam long after the engine is warmed if the air temperature is below 10°F. Again, that is completely normal, and if you look at other vehicles around you while driving you can see the evidence.
Above that temperature, the steam is normal until the engine and exhaust system have warmed fully. This may take more than simply a driveway warmup, and might not quit until the car is moved and the engine makes good exhaust heat and flow under load.
If you detect a sweet aroma in the exhaust at any time that accompanies the steam, you may have a coolant leak into the chambers or intake. Other evidence of that would be a gradual loss of coolant, coupled with signs of coolant in the oil and/or bubbles in the ooling system while running. If you are only finding an external coolant leak, you should repair that, clean up the engine and bay, and monitor for further problems.
If the engine seems to run normally otherwise, and there are no signs of oil contamination, what "smoke" you are experiencing may be normal. What is abnormal is the adequate cooling at highway speeds but gradual increase in temperature while standing. That can indicate either a problem with coolant circulation at low RPM or poor airflow through the radiator at low speeds and while standing. The ECM and electric fan should keep the temperature below 223° while standing. If that is what you are seeing, that is normal as well. If the temperature rises above that and the fan does not start, you have a problem.
Speaking of abnormal, just how many times are we going to have to face off this season?
Above that temperature, the steam is normal until the engine and exhaust system have warmed fully. This may take more than simply a driveway warmup, and might not quit until the car is moved and the engine makes good exhaust heat and flow under load.
If you detect a sweet aroma in the exhaust at any time that accompanies the steam, you may have a coolant leak into the chambers or intake. Other evidence of that would be a gradual loss of coolant, coupled with signs of coolant in the oil and/or bubbles in the ooling system while running. If you are only finding an external coolant leak, you should repair that, clean up the engine and bay, and monitor for further problems.
If the engine seems to run normally otherwise, and there are no signs of oil contamination, what "smoke" you are experiencing may be normal. What is abnormal is the adequate cooling at highway speeds but gradual increase in temperature while standing. That can indicate either a problem with coolant circulation at low RPM or poor airflow through the radiator at low speeds and while standing. The ECM and electric fan should keep the temperature below 223° while standing. If that is what you are seeing, that is normal as well. If the temperature rises above that and the fan does not start, you have a problem.
Speaking of abnormal, just how many times are we going to have to face off this season?
01-06-2005, 03:05 PM
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Car: 1989 Formy droptop/88 Deville
Engine: L98 350 TPI
Transmission: factory RWD, WS6 susp
This is the first season I've addressed this issue, so forgive me. Vikings you say? Who are they, and what involvement with F cars??
I'm not a sports fanatic at all, forgive me.
Anyway, I did notice the exhaust seems white and still issuing after the motor was shut off last night, this after a 5 minute drive from work to home though. The fan, as I reported earlier, appears to not be coming on and I haven't looked into that too far either but I am taking notes.
Right now, we lost our work overtime again and money budget for repairs will be SUPER tight. I think with the top gasket/s for sure leaking (bubbling between left front manifold and valve cover area and constant antifreeze refilling, the big question is if in this area coolant from the manifold (TPI) is leaking into a poor sealing valve gasket area as well. I'll be hoping to replace these as soon as I can get a chance.
Haven't looked at steamclean options in the midst of winter and hope they are available, but last time I was underwhelmed with the result... had high expectations. I assume for a dirty engine bay, this may need repeating?
Bill
I'm not a sports fanatic at all, forgive me.
Anyway, I did notice the exhaust seems white and still issuing after the motor was shut off last night, this after a 5 minute drive from work to home though. The fan, as I reported earlier, appears to not be coming on and I haven't looked into that too far either but I am taking notes.
Right now, we lost our work overtime again and money budget for repairs will be SUPER tight. I think with the top gasket/s for sure leaking (bubbling between left front manifold and valve cover area and constant antifreeze refilling, the big question is if in this area coolant from the manifold (TPI) is leaking into a poor sealing valve gasket area as well. I'll be hoping to replace these as soon as I can get a chance.
Haven't looked at steamclean options in the midst of winter and hope they are available, but last time I was underwhelmed with the result... had high expectations. I assume for a dirty engine bay, this may need repeating?
Bill
01-06-2005, 09:18 PM
#6
Intake gaskets are relatively inexpensive, and now that you may have some extra time, changing those leakers would be a really good idea.
Also, if you have a reliable meter, you can track down the fan problem. If you suspect the fan motor itself has failed, you can perform a quick test that will isolate the fan, relay, and fusible link. Either install a jumper in the ALDL connector and turn the ignition on (without starting the engine) or remove the A/C system high side pressure switch connector. With the connector removed, or a jumper in the ALDL, the fan should run with the ignition on. If not, you can start tracking at the relay.
Also, if you have a reliable meter, you can track down the fan problem. If you suspect the fan motor itself has failed, you can perform a quick test that will isolate the fan, relay, and fusible link. Either install a jumper in the ALDL connector and turn the ignition on (without starting the engine) or remove the A/C system high side pressure switch connector. With the connector removed, or a jumper in the ALDL, the fan should run with the ignition on. If not, you can start tracking at the relay.
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