Hey guys. I put a Crane fuel pressure regulator on my '88 5.7 GTA today.
It took longer to get the adapters to put on the Summit guage than to put on the regulator. Seems the fitting threads on the bleeder on the fuel line are the same as home gas lines. Not pipe sizes. Found some pieces at a local hardware store and got it to work.
At idle, with the stock regulator, I was getting 36-38 psi. Hmmm. After the regulator change I bumped the psi to 46.
Put everything back together in a hurry to try it out at my local "test-track" and noticed the idle was just a little rougher.
At the unofficial "track" I picked up 1 mph from my previous try (to 95 mph indicated on digital dash), but still somewhat rough.
Then I got a SES light. Ran the car at normal speeds and something wasn't right.
Got back to my shop, let the car cool off, got back on the 'net and read the FAQ on this site for the umpteenth time.
I then closely read the section on adjustable fuel pressure regulators and lo and behold, you have to take off the vacuum line and plug it to correctly check the pressure.
I had 52-53 psi!
I then reset that, checked my timing (10 degrees btdc) and checked the computer codes under the dash.
I got a 33 and a 36. Huh? It was fine. Checked my trusty factory shop manual and both were mass airflow sensor related.
Uh-oh. Bunch of money.
Wait. Wait. Wait. Well hell, I had it off when I took the plenum loose and FORGOT to plug it back up! DUH.
Hooked it back up, checked timing and fuel pressure again and did a short test drive. Couldn't go to the "test track", too late in the evening and the law is on duty at nights in this area.
Anyway, felt great. No surge-just get up and go.
Moral of this story-Don't get in a hurry and if you have a problem check Thirdgen.org and your answer is probably there!
jms






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Rick,
According to Comp Cams the bronze gear is not required. There should also
be no problem with the 8366 distributor and gear.

AC

Subject: Distributor Gear [STI2000111500000001194287]

Hey AC,
I have this cam in my car: CCA-08-432-8. Do I need a bronze distributor
gear with it? Is the gear on MSD-8366 compatible with this cam?
Thanks, Rick


<< File: ATT00005.html >>
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Above is an e-mail that I sent to AC (alternate current???), Technical Support from Summit Racing.
The MSD-8366 part is the billet distributor they sell for our cars.
I hope this clears any doubts that there might be.
Rick

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'88 GTA 350
Headers, catback, free mods, Xtreme energy cam, and intake pieces
13.51@104.27, but can run better as it is.

I just put a new 2100-2300 RPM TQ Converter. I hope a 13.20 or better

RAPTOR, the baddest bird on the planet
AIM HIGH!

 

well, by going from the 3.73's to the 3.23's, I have gain a full mph and 1 tenth, add to that cruising at 75 doing about 2250 vs 2700 and overhall better gas mileage....couldn't hook worth a crap either (2.28 all night)...and my ET's remains still pathetic for a 350...no comments there....

 

and i think it has to be the best decision that i ever made. I have better throttle response, much smoother idle, a sizeable amount more pickup, better starting in the morning(no more 5 minutes to idle down form 1700 rpm like TBI),I can now make power to 5500rpm and beyond(as opposed to shifting at 4500 with TBI), adn my gas mileage is lots better. I would recommend this to anyone who can afford to have it done or is able to do it themselves. My TPI project took about a week to do with me and my uncle working on it for about 4 or 5 hours a night and it is perfect. thanks for your help during my swap.

------------------
*1989 RS
*Red, Daytona Turbo fiberglass hood, chrome 16x8 IROC wheels
*355 CID
*TPI ported plenum, SLp siamesed runners, Edelbrock high flow intake
*Edelbrock TES Headers (getting SLP 1 3/4 this summer)
*Richmond 3.73
Modded 700-R4, 2800 stall converter
NO recent time slips.

 

I was going thru the new 2001 GM Performance Parts catalog today, and I noticed their selections of roller cams. They have three great cams for L98 engines.

ZZ4 part number 10185071 208/221 .474/.510 112 LSA $165.30

845 part number 12370845 214/224 .488/.509 112 LSA $203.86

LT4 HOT part number 24502586 218/228 .492/.492 112 LSA $167.66

I didnt know of a good GMPP cam between the ZZ4 and the LT4 HOT cam, and now I found one, the 845. But its more expensive than the other two. All prices from http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/



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1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
13.23 @ 107.62 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Webmaster: SoCal F-Bodies
-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

Ok my old sensor read 101K ohms the new one reads 100K ohms. Both readings were taken from the center pin of the sensor to the sensor housing. How can putting a 3.9K ohm resistor inplace of the knock sensor trick the ECM? Its a big differnce in ohms!

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89 350 TPI,comp cam,edelbrock intake base,SLP headers,highflo cats,flomaster cat back,accel 300+ ign,ported plenum and runners,ported maf,auto w/shiftkit,cold air induction,AFPR,Ed wright chip,3.23 posie best ET 14.011@98.72mph without cam/New best 13.926@98.27mph

 

The previous owner of my serpentine setup stripped the Torx head on the big, lower bolt that secures the alternator to the serpentine bracket.

Part# is 11514462 @ $1.43ea wholesale...but if they have to be ordered the min quantity is 5-pack.

Just thought I'd add to the knowledge base.

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1982 Z-28

See http://www.mycar.net/mafb/registry/detail.cfm?id=276 for details

 

I have ran across a fellow in Elgin,IL that takes and machines throttle shafts "since most have wear and are loose at 80k or so" and installs sealed roller bearings at each end"doubt they will ever wear out" then fabricates the larger throttle blades and contours the TB to match.The price is $190.00 which in my opinion is a deal considering you get a repair and a flow upgrade.He is a tool and die maker and has told me some of the others that do this type of work idle at 1000rpm afterwords because of lack of precision.Mine has worked great! He is working on a website but his email adress is DKoldos@aol.com
I have some pics I can send to those that are interested.I am sure he does to.Just thought I would pass this along.

 

http://www.cs.uu.nl/wais/html/na-dir...line-faq/.html

 

In the December 1989 Issue of Chevrolet High Performance they featured the SLP "performance package" with some very good results. It consisted of their cold air intake, High Flo Runners, Custom PROM to match mods, Tri-Y headers(which have been discontinued) and 2 on the left exhaust. Some also got a High performance oil pan to keep it well lubricated. They tested this on a 1988 F-Body 350 TPI. Stock it ran 14.93 @93.45 mph 0-60 was 6.97 Seconds. After modifications it ran 14.06 @ 99.44 mph 0-60 in 5.67 seconds. Thats quite an improvement. Here are the torque and HP numbers:

SLP Modified Stock
RPM Torque HP Torque HP
2000 287 110 279 106
2400 298 137 285 131
2800 309 168 302 162
3200 317 194 305 186
3600 321 221 305 209
4000 311 236 286 218
4400 293 245 266 224
4800 272 247 239 218
5200 239 237 200 189
5500 227 238 179 188

I know these aren't earth shattering numbers but it does move peark HP from 4400 to 4800 and adds 23 HP but the biggest improvement is 50 hp at 5500 rpm and it still makes 14 more HP than the stock engine did at its power peak. I hope this helps some.

Also this was dealer installed. Thanks If you have any more questions e-mail me at cakes12@hotmail.com

 

I found this while searching i know this will help alot of people in TPI, also have a lot of other TECH DATA on thirdgens.....



TPI diagrams ...... http://www.chevythunder.com/fuel%20i...m#ALDL TERM ID


Their home page ..... http://www.chevythunder.com/

 

I was in need of a fuel pressure gauge for my 87. I had purchased a kit from summit years ago and the gauge died in about two weeks, so they sent me a 1/8" pipe plug and a stupid ball cap for my trouble. (no refund) Anyway I'm going to install a new EGR valve and an AFPR. I already have the fitting that goes on the fuel rail from the summit kit and only needed a new gauge. I didn't want to pay $60 for a kit when all I needed was a gauge. So I made a call and found VDO # 153 005D at a local supplier for $18.00. It's a 1 1/2" dia. 0-60 pound fuel pressure gauge with a two year warranty. Hope this info helps someone out in the future. -Dan

 

If you have headers and are on a budget and need some new spark plug wires these are the ones for you. You can find these at Kragen, Checker, Cheif I think those are all the names across the us for that store. Well they are autolite plug wires for a 93-95 Chevy truck with a 350 tbi engine. just ask and thell direct you to them. Make sure and look at the wires and see that they are 8.5mm cause they also have 7.5mm ones that are more expensive. It doesnt make sense but the skinnier wires are more expensive. I got out of ther only spending like 22 dollars and they are damn good wires too.

 

Guys here is the video of the vac gage to see if the MAF unit was causing any sort of restriction in the air supply path.



http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=570547

 

These parts are for use with the Ramjet intake which fits vortec, fastburn, and e-tech style heads.

All of the GM parts listed here were originally posted by member drain89. But I’ve updated the prices.

Here are the part numbers & prices (gmpartsdirect.com):
-12489371 Ram-Jet Manifold 380.36
-10128305 Splash Shield 7.59
-11514149 Bolt 2.80 (4) = 11.20
-12529094 Vortec Intake Gasket 16.65
-12550027 Intake Bolt 2.14 (8) = 17.12
-14082470 Vacuum Fitting 2.25
-11516425 TB Bolt 2.16
-25095452 PCV Valve 4.18
-12556930 PCV Hose 3.65
-336018 PCV Connector 3.10
-12146312 Coolant Temp Sensor 5.30

-17113520 Ram-Jet T-Body 174.45
-12551240 TB Gasket 3.05
-17123852 Throttle Position Sensor 23.69
-17113209 IAC Valve 53.73
-17082049 IAC Seal 4.61
-17113168 IAC Bolt/Screw Kit 10.19

-12553918 Fuel Rail Assy 287.66
-11516061 Fuel Rail Bolts .73 (4) = 2.92
-17123897 Fuel Pressure Regulator 60.07
-9439930 FPR Bolt .31
-12557247 FPR Hose 3.95
-12489599 Fuel Line Connector 9.45
-12489600 Fuel Line Connector Seal 4.20

You also have to add in shipping if you buy the parts from gmpartsdirect.com

You could buy the TB used which will include the TPS & IAC valve. I believe the ramjet, vortec, and LS1 engines all have the same TB and sensors, but I’m not 100% sure. This would save you A LOT of money.

You can also use fuel rails from Street & Performance (www.tunedport.com). They look very good and although I can’t find a price on their website, they used to cost $89 in 2001 (according to member FormulaJoe), which is A LOT cheaper than the GM parts. Their site has TONS of Ramjet accessories.

I’m pretty sure the FPR is the same as all LT1s (Aeromotive). So you could get that used or buy an aftermarket adjustable one.

There’s also an issue with the throttle cable brackets and cables since they’re on the passenger side of the motor. I believe a couple members here made their own from a 4 cylinder 3rd gen or LS1 cable because they are longer than cables on L98s. Street & Performance might also have something to fix this.

I believe the hood clearance issues are the same as the HSR. Stock hooded birds may need to modify their hood braces.

All in all, I’d say it’d cost anywhere from $650-$1100, depending on choice of TB and FPR.

And remember you’ll probably want larger injectors and some sort of prom tuning, which I haven’t included in the price.

If you shop around for used components, I’d say this is a pretty decent deal. As long as you want to use vortec, fastburn, or e-tech heads.

Heck, we might even be able to get a group purchase from Street & Performance for most of the parts that would be needed.

-Brian

 

Just wanted to give you guys a heads up regarding rough idling/not idling, intermittent problems with your car, if you happen to be in the same boat I was. Car is a 1987 iroc L98 with about 98K miles on what appears to be stock parts.

Quick run down: drove car home one night when went to restart, would not start, had a really rough time getting it running. Later, the car would have a funny cycling idle of about 600-700RPM, and when put in gear, would quickly choke, stumble and stall. When it did this, it also had a weird high idle every now and then, and the exhaust smelled 'not right', and there was a whitish gray smoke puff. This drove me nuts for a few months as I went through and changed just about everything I could think of that was the problem:
new wires, cap, rotor, plugs, CTS, reset IAC and TPS *** knows how many times, but I could not get a consistent idle with the set timing disconnected below 650 or so RPM, car would stall out below that.
new ignition module swapped, noticed that connector for pick up coil was melted slimy consistency. Weird. Cleaned it the best I could.

tried swapping ignition coil, knock module, alternate MAF, new injectors, new EGR, checked and double checked vaccuum lines. No good. To this point, I figured I had a head gasket leaking, cause I could see bubbling in the overflow when the cycling idle happened, and there was that white coolant fluff down the one side of the head/manifold. So I change head gaskets, rip entire motor out, rebuild, put back in, same story talk about frustrating......

finally, under last resort advice, I swapped out the entire distributor. WHaLa!.....that was the ticket. Idles fine now, rock solid at about 600 RPM or so.

If anyone has these symptoms, I wanted to post this as a reference, since this was majorly frustrating.....

 

Link to the one in exhaust

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=193212

 

I did a search and came across some realtime university researched tpi cfm numbers. I was highly impressed what the stock system is capable of.
click here

 

hey guys, just thought i would let you see the progress on my vortec heads. ive ported and polished the exhaust ports and only minor ported the intakes, these heads dont need much on the intake side but the exhaust can be opened up some. im doing this to show that if i can do it, anybody can with just some common hand tools and some carbide bits... and a lot of patience!!!!! and time. be careful and wear eye protection [trust me on this]. when i get them done i will send more pics and flow #s......

 

lost my first post.

Basically these pictures of the bottom of my TPI base.




My friend is going to block the exhaust down in the heads, then plug these little holes and use the passage to cool the intake.
I'd just never seen these EGR holes anywhere before so I thought I'd post the pics.

 

I just wanted to pass on some info on something that I have been searching for for my 92 Z28. I have been looking for a scan tool to check all parameters of the engine when trying to tune for maximum performace. There are not alot of products out there that are dedicated to our cars for this. If any of you are interested in this, you need to check out www.turbo-link.com

 

Had a few issues like didnt trust the roch. valve and charcoal canister was making a tinkling sound when u turn it over :-)

Here the part numbers:

Charcoal canister(purge valve is integral)
ACdelco 215-163
GM 17092109

rochester vavle(inline to canister just trace about a 6inches)
GM 17087240

Fuel tank vent valve(near fuel tank, when u smell gas from drv rear)

GM 10033125

I know these apply to 90-92 350 and believe same for 305, not sure if they apply to other yrs and/or which ones :-)

Later
Jeremy

 

Hello,
I wanted to post a link to this site I just made. It has instructions and pictures of how I removed my Air Conditioner from my 88 TPI Iroc. I am not sure if anyone will find this helpful as it was not hard to do but it gives an idea of everything involved before starting. I am going to be making a bunch of what I think are helpful tutorials as I continue to work on my car. I will be putting a Twin Turbo in it this summer and will be making a tutorial for that and so on. I am not sure if this applies to all 82-92 Camaro's. If anyone has any additional information that I missed please let me know.

I mainly just did this to make room for the twin turbo, not for a "performance" or "weight reduction" reason.

http://www.enter.net/~bourneash/acremoval/

 

injector data and part numbers (different manufacturers): http://www.telusplanet.net/~chichm/tech/injectors.pdf - you must convert ccm <> lbs.
and here're useful formulas and online calculators: http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm

 

Not listed in any particular order, but maybe too good to delete from the archive, so it is consolidated here: