Today I tried to start my car for the first time since the swap to tpi. I put a jumper wire in between the oil pressure switch so I could run the fuel pump to check for leaks. After I let the fuel pump run for a while I then tried to start the car. The car sounded like it almost wanted to start and then I just quit trying to start and just cranked. I noticed a strong gas smell coming from the back of the car so I was going to lower the front of the car and jack up the back to check for any leaks. When I went to lower the car gas started leaking out of the Y pipe for the exhaust and when I pulled a spark plug out it was soaked in gas. Does that mean the injectors were working because I read that for VATS the ECM will not allow the injectors to pulse. Did I do a bad thing by letting the fuel pump run for a while before I tried to start the car?
Thanks,
Matt

 

Running the pump shouldn't have caused any problems by itself, unless there's another problem, like stuck open injectors.

Did you check for spark?

Have you been able to set the timing? If you're getting fuel and spark, see where the timing is at while cranking, and move it around to about 6deg BTDC. While cranking it's using module only for spark and its timing, so no real need to disconnect the bypass.

If it doesn't start soon after cranking, you may need to let it sit a few hours, or hold the throttle wide open (which will turn injections off) and crank to clear the plugs a little.

If your IAC is bad, then it may be sitting in an almost closed position, which will not give the engine enough air to start. Try holding the throttle a little bit open to start, but if the IAC is shot it won't idle correctly.

Good Luck!

 

What about trying to start it with all that gas in the exhaust? Should I worry about that or once I get it started will it just blow the fumes clear?

 

I've never had anything go wrong when starting a flooded car, as far as blowing up an exhaust or whatever. Never heard of anyone having a problem, but I suppose a few people have seen or heard of some neat things with that situation.

Just do it outside, hehe.

 

Does anybody have any idea about the VATS question?

 

VATS can stop injections and I think the starter on some years. You're not having either problem, so it should be Ok. What did you do to "disable" VATS? Get a chip burnt? Bypass the unit mechanically?

Pull a spark plug wire and stick a screwdriver in the end and set it near something metal on the car (like the strut tower mount). Look for spark.

You're getting fuel.

Sometimes the distributor gets dropped in 180 degrees out (360 crankshaft degrees). You can pull #1 plug out, turn the engine by hand and feel for air pushing out that plug hole, then continue turning the engine until #1 TDC at the balancer. Then check where the rotor of the distributor is pointed. Should be towards #1 cylinder on the engine, and the cap should be oriented such that the #1 cylinder plug post is pointed towards the #1 cylinder on the engine. Once all that is lined up, it should at least start. Once started you can fine adjust the base timing (disconnect the EST Bypass wire while setting timing).

Good Luck.

 

U said u converted to TPI.

In addition to what Red n Gold has mentioned(hes pretty smart cookie) I thought of two things.

I dont know what yr TPI setup u swapped, if it has a cold start injector, u should really think about elimintating it.

Also check the line from the regulator to the plenum and make sure u didnt blow the diaphragm out or the regulator.

These both can cause similiar issues.

The whole distributort thing at TDC #1 is fun too :-) Always seems to be 180 out fi you have the valve covers on.

Try that first like was mentioned prior

later
Jeremy

 

update: I almost got the car started! It runs for 5 seconds with the throttle opened about 1/4. I get lots of black smelly smoke. Could it just be the timing or is it just burning off all the excess gas from the day before? The TPI is an 89...no cold start injector.Thanks for your help.

 

Hmm, on a MAF car, shouldn't have too much black smelly smoke. Might have a bad coolant temperature sensor, or really high fuel pressure, or larger injectors (without the correct chip), or lots of leaking injectors, or other mystery problem.

Can you get it to run longer? It might just be lots o smoke from the flooding, and still hasn't cleaned up, but a few seconds of running and throttle should clean it up. Give it another shot, and see if you can get'r to clean up. Then, try a scan tool to see what the computer thinks. If it says 30 grams/second, or -15 F coolant temperature or just anything rediculous, report back.

p.s. Thanks for the compliment 3.8.

 

I have new Bosch 22lbs/hr injectors and a new fuel pump rated at 40 psi. I put teflon tape on the temperature sensor threads to keep it from leaking. Could that cause the sensor to act up? I have to work for the next four days so I won't have time till then to play with it.

 

update: I installed a new temperature sensor, and a new o2 sensor. I checked the codes and got 54 which my book says it's the fuel pump circuit. Not a problem because the fuel pump is on it's own power source. I still have the same problem! Car starts for 5 seconds and runs way too rich and cuts off over and over. Now a new problem! When I got under the car to change the o2 sensor I noticed a big puddle of oil. The rear seal is leaking something horrible. Now the project is sidelined until I can get to fixing the seal. AAARRRGGG

 

If your seeing code 54 from loss of volts at the fuel pump (or battery depending on the bit selection) your injectors will be compensating for the loss of voltage by increasing the output.
The error is set at less than 1.9 volts so I'm guessing its just not connected. Might be a good part of the richness.
Try setting/unsetting the bit in the bin for fuel pump volts/battery volts. If you are not burning chips then connect fuel pump power wire (switched on the pump side) to the ecm. You could just use switched battery power to get it to work as well.

 

Please excuse the stupid question but I want to make sure I do this right. Can I run a switched power wire to the B2 terminal for the fuel pump signal?