thanks.

were you running shorties or stock exhaust before? also did you have a cat? or did you after you switched?

 

I was running edelbrock shorties and a 3in cat back with flomaster and no cat

 

wow! that is still impressive. i always thought it was about half a second to go from stock exhaust to shorties but half a second from shorties to long tubes?!!!

looks like i may have to consider going to long tubes and mufflex some time in the future. it's always something.

tanks fer da tip.

 

I would love to see times with a hot cam.... From what I have heard, the stock LT4 cam is smaller than a stock LT1 cam

I cant wait to see numbers with my HotCam and my 4.10s

 

Yeah stock lt4 cam is way small especially with 1.5 rockers (lt4 came stock with 1.6) the lift numbers are under 450 on both sides and duration in the low 200 range

 

i used to deal alot with turbo imports, and i think that a diesel turbo would be WAY to large- also would have too much boost for a little gasoline engine like that..- especially with cheap rods- Go with a forged and balanced bottom end, crank, rods, and pistons, running 8 to 8.5:1 comp ratio, and order yourself a greddy T/3 turbo and run her at 25 psi-.. you WILL get results, and a kick in the pants..- My cousins 95 Ealge talon TSi AWD dynos at 737 awhp and runs 34 psi - but he has $20k in the motor.... But that thing is an import rocket.

 

Both of those turbos are in fact too small for a 350.
The Power stroke only spins to 3k max and is a 444cid. Do the math.
The T3 is too small on the turbine for a 350 above about 5k when running 2 of them!
Apparently you didn't do any turbo sizing. Just kit selling.
Imports and V8's are different animals.
A GT35 is a common import size turbo. But 2 of them on a 350 will barely crack 600hp. They also come on diesels btw-John Deere.
2 T61's will make 800+ rwhp at 18psi in a 355....

 

the lt1 cam and the lt4 cam are almost the same the the only real difference is the lobe sep the lt4 is at 115 lobe sep and the lt1 is on a 117

 

hey, thanks for the info on the lt4 "hot cam"

now, i have looked but cannot find the operating range on this cam. would you know what the rpm range is? (do the 1.6 rockers change the range?)

thanks...........again.

 

The LT4 Hot cam is different than the LT4 regular cam.

 

still would like operating rpm for "hot cam" if anyone would be kind enough to share it.

 

I had a HSR with a hot cam and the trick flow heads in a 355 with 3.45 rear gears. I felt it was drivable throughout the RPM range. A lot is in the tune though and gears though.

 

If I remember correctly, I think the redline on the grandsport Corvettes was 6500rpm... so, the hot cam would be somewhere close..... A friend of mine had an LT4 Hotcam on an '87 IROC block with corvette L98 heads, Edelbrock intake, and a holley 750, and held it until 7000rpm, which was a little high in my opinion, but he said it still pulled. If I had to guess at the entire RPM range of the Hotcam, I would say 1500-6500

 

Thanks. The LT4 hot cam sure doesn't seem to be a great match with the long tube runners. Maybe the HSR will aleviate some of that.

 

It is possible to make 400 rwhp With 383ci Vortecs if built correct.. But you gotta do everything..

 

N I C E setup you have.

i have a Super Ram but after reading about all the trouble, especially with vortec heads i have decided to sell the Super Ram and get a Stealth Ram.

any thoughts?

 

Thanks

Well, as we know the story about the Vortec's.. It is a long process to get everything complete.. The screw in studs an guide plates need done.. The springs retainers need to be replaced.. The intakes need to be Ported and the ex. sides like a Polish with 383ci.. So once the heads are finished new or used.. It's going to cost some money.. To get the Vortecs to a performance level..

The base Manifold.. Well we all know the out come of those with a SuperRam.. The base manifold needs Counter Sunk bolts in 2 locations I believe, due to the Sr runner.. Another process that needs to be done with a Sr is that you need to Make a Weather Pack Harness for the injector harness for a unplug an pull engine with SR on..

The Vortec Vette style Egr.. You can buy the kit.. Or you can build your own.. And not to mention a good thing to do in the step is Coat the headers.. And Cover the Egr tubing to header with the proper covering they use..

The Super ram well we know that it's nice to get it all Honed and Port matched along with the base.. The install is probably most everyone's biggest complaint.. Once you get everything set up with the slot screws it really saves some time and frustration.. The more practice and learn certain tools to work with to make things easier.. It is possible..

 

shesh, just reading that and the stealth ram seems like a better deal. if i didn't have vortec heads i would use the super ram but with all things considered looks like the next time they put the stealth ram on sale....... ;-)

thanks!!!

 

The Stealth Ram may be a better deal yeah.. If they would Carb eo that it would be great.. So pretty much the Sr vortec build is an expense as your paying for smog parts and upgrades if your starting from a Maf system.. With any intake combo I would recommend the Injector Harness.. Then Keep in mind about the Egr with the header.. You don't want an already coated header..

The 3:45 is a very nice gear also.. Good for the Street or Fwy.. I needed the upgrade from 3:27 to the 3:45's do to the Auto and the 3:27 didn't have much punch say as rolling 60 and nail it.. It just does not transfer that great to the ground.. And that was with the 350..


Now keep im mind Im running a ZZ4 cam.. A 383ci motor does not need a large cam to make the power.. A Lt4 hot cam would be big as you need, there is some custom grinds out there also.. I myself would like to just upgrade to a ZZ9 cam but Im unsure of the Clearance I have..

Whats the best price so far on that Stealth Ram.. And What's Involved for the swap

 

stealth rams for vortecs are now $30 more than standard heads but whole kit with intake plenum fuel rails and afpr (ours won't work) was a touch over 500. dyno numbers seem real close with the stealth ram making more peak hp at higher rpms with only a few ft lbs of trouque lost.

i still have 2.77s n my car and if you punch is sitting still it just fries the tires. you canr forget loading with the brake on.

when the HSR goes on i plan to go to 3.23 or 3.42 to keep the rpms in the correct range.

as far as the swap goes.... if i remember the article right....on the standard tpi set up there are 32 bolts and with the HSR only 16. and we aren't even talking about what a pita the standard tpi is.

hey, when you get that beast to the track let us know how she does!!

 

Sure thing.. As of right now Myself and Z28Dude are rebuilding the 700r4 and loading it with all those Goodies.. I have pretty much everything needed besides the Shell and shift kit stuff to order.. So soon as it's back together.. What we have 2 months before track here opens back up.. I'll be out there to get my 1st ever numbers.. I have no slicks but atleast I have Brand new tire So 1st time out I'll probably run low 13's.. Unless something Good happens..


Yeah 2:77's are terrible for any Hi performance engine.. I be real careful.. What trans are you running.. 2:77's terrible for a 700r4..


16 bolts not bad... I can't recall how many are with the super ram.. One to many
yeah the Steatlh ram has a much better hp number over the Sr.. Im still looking to go back and DynoJet tune.. Kick on the blowers this time and bring her out to 6,200 change the rockers I have with 1.6 an a different 1.5rr.. Hoping to reach that 389 to 400 and remain the 442rwtq That sure would be nice.. I have a pretty nice fuel system to finish up.. Some think it's to much.. But it's all what a person wants and how they want it built I guess..

Good Luck with that Stealth Ram.. It seems to be way easier and way less money..

 

bet you hit mid 12s pretty easy with a good tune and if you hook up worth a darn.

tranny is a 700r4. had it redone last year with a kevlar pack etc.

man does she shift now!! when it hits 2nd it feels like your fired out of a cannon.

i havn't changed the 2.77s because of all the wheel spin. i did do the lca, panhard, and went to eibach springs. i don't seem to have wheel hop it just spins and spins and spins. well you get the picture.

the suprising thing is what she has pulled. besides an ls1 ss she pulled a cobra in 1st till the driver of the cobra missed second and it was over. now don't get me wrong she was just barely pulling it be she was getting it done. just love it when they don't see it coming. she looks stock.

i know they need to be changed but with the torque now how could i hope to get it hooked with 3.23s or 3.42s?

good luck at the track!!!!

when the HSR and gears are in she will go to the track. problem is with a convert. and no roll bar i will only get one pass and get tossed so i want to get her right before the run.

 

Sounds good.. Have you done relocation brackets for the Lca's?

 

you could also go with Edelbrock E-tec 200 heads,vortec stealthram.very good heads

 

no on the relocation. i have the brakets but have not put them on. plan on doing the torque arm first then if needed will relocate the lca.

do you really think the 3.42s are going to be THAT much better than the 3.23s? what kind of rpms will that put you at in the quarter?

 

You will need those relocation brackets most likely.. Depending on your rear unit of course the 3:42's are going to be much better than the 3:23's.. Say on a stock auto l98 at 60 mph there is to much gear searching back an forth kicking down.. Light load on 4th lets say.. The 3:45's help with all those related problems with improper gearing..

 

hmmm,

i havn't really had any problems at 60. can you be more specific?

my thinking is that in reviews i have seen there are several cars with 350s running well into the 12s with the 3.23s. if i had and engine that was going to run up in the 6500-7000 range i would be more inclined to go with 3.73s or even 4.11 etc.


with the torque these engines produce, even with the HSR, i seems that unless you are running tall tires that stickin with the 3.23s or 3.42s is about all it will stand without running out of rpms.

anyway, thats what it looks like to me.

if you have a different view PLEASE let me know. lord knows i don't want to make a mistake and have to re-do the gearing.


rgr on the relocation brackets. just thought the torque arm would give more bite for the buck right now. oh look i made pun.

mom'll be proud.

 

dont mean to butt in but i have a qeustion and hopefully you have the answer. what kind of benefits could be had with a 383 with 2.08 versus 2.02 intake valve ? searched didnt find an answer. thanks a ton

 

No Problem with 3:45's running out of rpm.. How fast you want to go? There good for 150mph or more if you have room.. The 3:23's can work just fine.. For me here in Cali in slow and go traffic the 3:27 has the rpms dropped to much lock up 4th searching 3rd to often every light throttle at that certain mph.. Rasing the lock up in the chip helped also..

Yeah those relocations brackets are not cheap for what they are.. But Im glad I had them put on..

 

What is that the Iron over the E-tec? I have not checked the valve size on the E-tec but I thought I heard it was Bigger.. The Alum Vortec has to be better for a 383.. Im not sure.. I like that my Vortecs burn real clean.. Good for smog here in Cali

 

"How fast you want to go?"

LOL, we are thinking of 2 different things. I was thinking about rpms in the 1/4.

heck, in this vert with no roll bar i have only taken it up to about 135 and she was still pulling like a **** (pardon the ebonics). the thought of rolling a vert at those speeds just makes my colon tighten up.

i had a chip burnt so mine doesn't search for a gear. i also have the cable set very loose so it changes at very low rpm unless you shift manually. maybe that is why i havnt experienced the problem as well.

don't forget to wave bye to the stangs.

 

i was actually talking about pro toplines lightening heads
they have 2.08valves 2.05 2.02 valve choices???