hey, im doing some engine work and wanted to remove the factory oil cooler.... i think 160 t stat and synthetic oil might keep the oil cool enough plus i eliminated the heater box so i had to keep the heater core lines to keep the oil cooler running. so heres my question:
there is another outlet on the rad that connects to the metal coolant line, can i run that directly to the water pump or should i run it to the intake port. whichever one i dont use i will block off, but the dont know what direction the flow comes out that rad outlet. Any suggestions would be great

thanks

joe

 

Why would you want to remove the oil cooler? Normally that's an add-on for higher performance engines/cars?

Just curious. No gains to be had by removing, only gains I see is keeping it.

 

well i want to remove the antifreeze cooler to get rid of the metal lines under the hood... i do plan i running an actual oil cooler thats similar to a trans cooler but i need to know what the do to block the system off

 

You can run a heater hose from the port on the front of the intake (not the thermostat) to the nipple on the pass side of the radiator.

If you still want the heater to work, run a heater hose from the same intake port to the heater core inlet, then from the heater core outlet to the nipple on the radiator prev mentioned.

As for the oil cooler itself; I left mine on the eng but ran a short heater hose from the inlet to the outlet to keep the crap out of there. No problems yet..

 

By lowering your coolant temp to a 160 stat will actually increase the oil temp due to the oil having to do more cooling than designed. Lower coolant temp = higher cylinder temp. Higher cylinder temp = higher mechanical parts temp = higher oil temp.

 

Lower coolant temp = lower combustion temps.
- anyhow, just get an oil filter adapter off a regular old V8 chevy. Drop the factory "cooler" adapter and bolt the regular filter adapter up in place an screw a filter on. Voila! - then do as stated above w/ the hoses.

 

Ok. Let's use 3 mile Island for an "extreme" example. Do you know what happened there? A coolant valve stuck open, causing the coolant to flow through too fast not allowing heat transferance. Result: 40% core meltdown. You would think the core would have gotten real cold since the coolant temp was low. Hum, what a concept. The faster the coolant flow, the less time for heat to build up in the coolant. By removing the thermostat from your engine, the coolant goes through too fast and doesn't remove as much heat resulting in a lower temp gauge reading. By changing the themostat from a 195 to a 160, you have just changed the amount of time the coolant has to absorb heat, thus, creating higher cylinder temps and causing higher oil temps. Granted 3 Mile Island is an extreme example, but, the result in an engine is relative.

 

No, changing the thermostat to a lower rating doesn't change the flow rate of coolant through the radiator. (and yes, I've heard the discussion about how removing the thermostat can cause the car to overheat in some obscure laboratory test, though everytime I see a thermostat that has been removed, it just results in the engine never heating up). But this has nothing to do with that discussion. Going to a 160 will just make the minimum coolant temperature set at 160* instead of the regular 195*.

 

His idea that changing to a lower stat will keep his oil cooler thus no need for the stock oil cooler. Have you seen the oil from an engine that has been run without a stat. The oil cooks and cakes on top of the heads and in the oil pan. Why is that?
Now, let's take a 70 degree ambient temp day. With a coolant temp of 195, there is a temp differntial of 125 degrees. And since air is a bad conductor of heat (actually a better insulator), and the easiest cost effective way to remove heat from the coolant, there are "x" amount of BTU's removed. With a 160 stat and on the same day of a 70 degree ambient temp, you have 90 degrees of temp differntial. Less BTU's will be transfered. Now, if you can change the ambient temp, and lower it to say 35 degrees, you have 125 degree temp differntial and would be removing the same amount of BTU's. Unless you have the ability to change the air temp going across the radiator, you cannot remove the same amount of heat, thus, more heat is remaining in the cylinder. The "sole" purpose of the coolant, and does nothing esle, is to control cylinder temp. The engine oil does 2/3rds of the engine cooling (mechanical parts).
Try this: Hold your hand over a flame for 1 second then remove it. continue this holding if for a second longer each time. eventually you will burn your hand, why? Because it absorbed more BTU's than it could stand. The longer you hold your hand over the flame the more hotter your hand gets. Same principal with the coolant around the cylinder. the longer is stays there, the more heat it will absorb and the hotter it will get. Can't change the laws of physics.

 

Taken from the Cooling Tech Board as quoted by DENN-SHAH:

some years back one of the oil companies did an extensive wear test on different oils at different temps. they used parts bought in bulk, each part came from the same manufacture, blocks from
one place, pistons & rings from someone else & so on. each of the parts from each company was from the same parts run. they also used oils from different companies. the motors were run under very strict lab conditions. during assembly each part was carefully measured & documented.
each motor had the same amount of run time with the same loads & RPM range put on it.
at tear down each part was again carefully measured & documented.
what was found in this test was,
1, a good quality oil from any oil company made little difference on the amount of wear, with the cheaper oils wear was faster, with the best oils wear was slower.
2, engine temp did have a major impact on wear, too cold (160 or below) or too hot ( 230 or higher) & the motor would wear out sooner.
the best wear temps they found were in the 185~220 range with 190~200 the best temps for long engine life.

other than shut down for oil & filter changes, these motors were all ran non-stop for this test.
the dirtiest oil always came from the coldest motors, the coldest motors also had the most sludge in them at tear down . too hot also produced high sludge/carbon levels inside the motor.
the one synthetic oil used showed the least amount of sludge at each temp extreme & was also the cleanest at all other temps.

 

I agree, you need to have a decent temperature for the oil (but not too hot).. Its not good for it to be too cold either. Thats why I'd recommend a 180* stat..

 

Just because it's at a lower temp doesn't make it sit there any shorter/longer. A different temp t-state doesn't change the flow, it simply changes the temp at which it opens. The coolant will absorb the heat, thus lowering the temp in the cylinder. Colder coolant can absorb more heat, thus taking heat away from the combustion chamber. Ever had a pyrometer? If so, then you'd know that lower coolant temp = lower cylinder temp.(if your exhaust temp is lower, your combustion temp is lower) Yes, if you remove a thermostat, you can have too much flow, thus not allowing the motor to cool(coolant moves by to fast to take out enough heat). - Doesn't usually happen w/ a tpi because of the small rad hoses/small t-stat kneck. - anyhow, this is a discussion for another board...

- What he has said he wants to do makes perfect sense. An aftermarket cooler is the way to go.