I am buiding my first engine and I am in need of some expertise. I purchased an engine with the following components that I am putting together. I want to keep my TPI intake (speed density) but I want to optimize the power potential of this engine. I already have the larger runners from AS&M but I need to know what intake manifold, heads, valves, and cam I should buy. I have about $1500 - $2000 to spend and I want to get the most bang for my buck. The car is going to be a weekend warrior but I want it to have some punch! I purchased the TCI streetfighter transmission and I have the Australian 9-bolt rear end (no idea of the gear ratio). I have heard a lot about the vortec heads but I am unsure of the needed changes to make these work with the TPI. Optimally, I want 350 HP at the rear wheels. I greatly appreciate anyone who can provide help!

Here are my engine specs:

block is 2 bolt main, ARP main studs, milodon diamond stripper windage tray
Eagle 5.7" press pin lightweight rods (SIR5700BPLW)
Federal Mogul hypereutectic pistons (H345NP40)
Moly rings (E251K40)
Clevite rod & main bearings
Eagle stock replacement new 350 crank

Thanks again!

 

I forgot to mention that the block has been bored 40 over.

 

I forgot to mention that the block has been bored 40 over.

 

350-3817 jegs part# for tpi base for vortec $451.99 kind of high price gm performance parts has the same thing part# ED3817 $398.95

 

You may want to look at a set of Edelbrock performer heads, they are a good bang for the buck purchase for around 1000.00 bucks/ also upgrade your exaust with headers/ cat back. Then get with comp cams tell them what you have and they sould put you in the ball park with a cam. Your heads should be your first concern, because that is where you are going to make the power, they dont have huge runners which work great for the street/strip set up and should work really well with your TPI, also you need to know what gear/stall you have so you can help comp match your cam to match your rpm band. But spend most your cash on your induction/exaust to start with then fine tune that, that should be a good starting point.

 

there are much better "bang for you buck" heads than edelbrock. - I've got just at $1000 in mine, all new and I'm making WAY more power than any edlebrock heads can dream of. - Toplines are now RHS - anyhow, you're goals/ideas are right on track for what you want. Get good heads, they make your power. The bottom end you just build to stay together.

 

Want to make big power? Ditch the stock tpi manifold

As for heads. I like TF's KD sig series heads. Flow 257/186 at .500" and they're cheap.

 

I know they make a whole series of heads that is a good bang for the buck, but the Edelbrocks out of the box smokes for what they are, we have had huge gaines from just swaps on the dyno every time, the quality is there. I know other people have quality parts too but we have never had a problem with them like some of the other stuff like on Trick flows with the studs pulling out, I think they have gotten that problem fixed now, I was just suggesting for the combo he wants that the edelbrocks would work great for what he seames to be looking for. Thats a cool thing about speed equipment now is that there are so many quality parts out there now that just about any decission on a head cant be far off as long as you match the rest of the components. Personally I think the AFRs are the best of them all but are a bit pricey, but have time and time again proven when we dyno that in the same class of flow they put brodix, trickflow, fastburn, dart, all to bed, except the closet that has matched them are the Pro Topline units. But the best set we got for the money was the perfomer rpms. But the most important thing to do is build the set up you need as a whole and component match, regardless of the products.

 

 

I just wanted to thank all of you for your help. It is amazing how many different directions you can go and making the choice is the hardest part. So, from everyones comments I am guessing I should look into Edelbrock heads and intake manifold. I was also toying with going with an Edelbrock vortec intake and ported vortec heads. What are your thoughts?

Bottom line is this car is going to live most if its life below 5,500 RPM. So what is the common consensus for heads? Also, what type of cam should I mate up with a better intake

Thanks a million and I will post pics when I buy everything and get it in.

 

how about stock vortec heads with a holley stealth ram?

 

I'm interested to see what folks say about using the HSR intake with edelbrock heads too.

I'm have a 406 scb with Edelbrock Performer RPM heads and a 215/224 duration cam in front of a Tremec TKO (2.89 first gear) and 3.33 rear gears. I have an Accel/Lingenfelter TIP intake manifold (without upper runners and plenum) and I was thinking it would be better to go with the HSR instead. I'll probably never rev above 5200.

 

HI DZCODE, If your just going to twist it to 5200 IMO I would stick with what you have, especially if its mostly a street car. That should be about where your cam pulls to anyway. How are those EDELBROCKS working out for you? You could always port you a set of SLP runners and work on a plenum a little and have a great set up. If you do decide to get a HSR, let me know I would not mind having that base....Thanks.

 

ZEEYAA,
Thanks for the input. I've seen the 350/383 ci hp/tq graphs comparing ported tpi systems and the HSR, The HSR losses tq below 5000, but gives incredible increase in hp above 5000. Since this is a 406, I wasn't sure if I'd have "too much" tq down low and chock off the air way before 5200.

 

DZCODE, the set up you have will work well with your gear since that way you can use all that torque to pull the car fast through the gears, and since your only going to turn it a little over 5k the set up you have should work well with some good runners and port work. If you were going to put a lower gear in it and a larger cam to take advantage of the added rpm the engine would turn then a HSR woud be a better choice, but personally for the street I would rather have a good mid range/tq engine. If its not fast enough for you, you could alway put a small Nitrous kit on it, say a 100/125 shot and you would get a good kink in the pants from that... What does the car run now?

 

ZEEYAA,
It's not running right now. I just have the engine and trans assembled and sitting in the engine bay. I have the accel manifold on, but wanted to get some opinions before it got buttoned up. (should get all advice before starting right?!)

This combo is in a 1969 Z28. I wanted to install EFI since I was tired of the carb (too rich, too lean, hard starting, warming up, etc). This forum has been a great source of info for EFI, etc.

 

DZCODE, yeah I know what you mean, its nice to twist the key and get the purrrrrrr. and not have to worry about setting the choke and stuff. As far as rich/lean have you looked at the newer holley stuff like the HP carbs, not trying to talk you out of FI but they sure have come a long way with carbs, my brother runs a 1050HP on his big block nova and that thing works great. It very adjustable with the air bleeds so you can max your entire rpm range from idle to wot. There is alot of knowledge on this forum but you will always have to make the final decission. Have you already gotten you ECM and do you already have your sensors/ injectors/headers with oxy. bungs etc? You might want to take that into concideration, the base is just the first step, I guess you know that though. Good luck and let me know what you are going to do, and if I can be of any help just let me know, as im sure the other members will be glad to chime in also.

 

Vortec heads alone need work to handle higher lift for a decent cam.

If you go with the vortecs you will have to buy the TPI vortec intake. ( around 400.00) But you can keep the runners you have.

I wanted to check out the vortec setup so I decided to go with the edelbrock aluminum e-tecs (1000.00 at the time I purchased)as the cost to upgrade the vortecs ( springs, porting,valve work, screw in studs) brought the cost close enough that I could justify the additional 200 for a set of heads that had all of the above and were lighter. ( picture of my motor below)
For the runners I decided to go cheap and hog out a set of SLP runners along with the stock plenum. ( this picture is not mine and the runners are not SLP but this is what I referenced to modify mine regarding the inside material to hog out)

To reach a goal of 350 HP at the rear wheels is a tall order given your budget and not realistic for LTR unless you have some expensive inductive help. Added to this you have other variables such as the burning of a prom to realize the HP of your additions as speed density is not as forgiving as MAF ...also a trans that will handle this build along with headers- full exhaust.
I am not advising you to go one way or another but simply trying to help you think about the cost of going faster.

Regarding the 9 bolt rear end.. If you want to get an idea of the gear you have without opening the cover, mark the wheel and mark the drive shaft. Noting the starting point of both, rotate the wheel once, back to the starting point, while looking to see how many rotations the driveshft has made. For instance: If you had a 3.73 gear you would get about 3 3/4 rotations of the driveshaft for one rotation of the wheel. For a 3.27 about 3 1/4 turns of the driveshaft to one rotation of the wheel. Or if your lazy and its available you could just check the option code

Hope this helps