Well the car has been runing great for the past few weeks around town and on short trips. But just last weekend. I went to inverness which is 160 mile round trip. To meet up with a friend then go to gainesville to run the cars. So anyways I get up on the inerstate and drive in traffic then get out to the open. Then I get up to 80mph and crusie there for about 10 miles and then the dreded orange glow of death ses light comes on. lol. The car is still running good. So I vary my speed to see if it changes. Nope. The car still seems to run fine. So I get to my exit and travel another 20 miles to my friends house. The light was still on. I run the codes and it's a 32 for egr. So we find out the track closed do to ran. So we decided to got to breakfest. I start the car and no light. So I toll around town and he even takes the car out for a spin and beats on it. Still no light for the rest of the day while I am there. But it dose the same thing on the way home. I drive for about 10 miles out in the open and it comes back on till I get home and start the car the next moring. Haven't had the light back one since then. But I haven't took another long trip yet ether. So what's causeing this. I read some other peoples post but the also had it come one while cold and what not. And dose this affect mileage. I did about 15-16mpg on the highway. I would expect that for the city. But not the highway. Ecspeacily for a stock motor. Thanks in advance for any help! Adam :-)

 

Our cars are OLD, pull the bulb from the check engine light, keep your car in great running condition and you will be OK

 

If the light was on, you should have a stored error code. Retrieve the code, diagnose the problem, and repair. it. Or you can remove the lamp and continue to only get 15MPG and be happy in your ignorance of a problem.

 

15 mpg is great running condition?!? Pull the bulb?!? Why not just drive it right to the crusher. It's OLD and all right?

 

Pulling the bulb is not an option. It's there for a reason. And it's telling me theres somthing wrong and to fix it.

The only code is a 32. Which is egr correct. Now dose that mean it's the actual egr or the little silonoid next to the coil or somthing else that has to do with the egr. Is there any way to start checking stuff without just replacing stuff. Thanks. Adam :-)

P.S. I was thinking about it last night and rembered I don't have a belt for the smog pump. Dose that have and anything to do with the egr. I also have a test pipe in place of a cat. But every thing else is hooked up.

 

The lack of an air injection pump will not affect the EGR system. The lack of a cat converter will not affect it either.

A '32' can be caused by several problems in TPI systems. The EGR valve itself could be malfuntioning. The ERG vacuum solenoid could be malfunctioning. The temperature switch on the EGR valve base could be malfunctioning.

Before you replace anything, perform some diagnosis and try to determine which of them it may be.

 

Vader, Thanks alot for that how-to thingy. But I'm confussed now. How do you push the diaphragm on the egr with it still on the car? I'm still new to tpi systems. So excuse me for being dum on this. Thanks again. Adam :-)

 

Without some very long, slender fingers (or a tool bent to act like one) it would be nearly impossible. With a tool properly bent to reach under the plenum and valve diaphragm, it is merely very difficult. Chances are that the valve itself is functioning, but it would be good to test it to be sure.