Just picked up an 89 T/A with a 305 TPI, the engine started when I went and looked at the car, but of course when I get it home it wont start. Spray some starter fluid and the car fires and runs as long as I want. Turn it off, try to start and no start, even with the engine warm. The vats is gone, steering column has been changed, so I assume the vats is jumpered somewhere. Fuel pressure with key on is around 40 and stays there while running. What would keep the injectors from firing just on the initial start? If starter fluid is used the engine starts immediately. Could this be the coolant sensor or something for a cold start? Where is it located and can I check its resistance with a DVM?

**just double checked, no cold start injector or sensor for one, so it is in fact an 89 TPI system. Car has an aftermarket chip in it, not sure if this would matter or not.

 

Any codes?

Try it with out fuild. Try to hold the pedal to the floor, then try it half way. then post your results back here.

 

no codes. Tried it with it floored and half way, no difference, no gas smell so I dont think it is flooded. Looks like the injectors arent firing during cranking, but I have to get some noid lights to be sure. I have been doing some searching, could it be the distributor module? I can let it run 10 minutes, shut it off, and then try to start and no start unless I shoot some fluid in the plenum. Car seemed to start ok just hours earlier, is there any way I can test the module?

 

Sounds like you need aprom with the cold start sequence in it from 1989 , should clear it all up.

 

Should be there, or would it not be in the aftermarket chip? I assume the acutal computer is the 89 one.

 

hmmm , It may be the rigth one . If yuo have a manual Use the AYPS .bin file. It's what was stock in my 1989 305 5 speed. Not sure of the one you need if it is a manual . What does the chips say on it?

 

The car is an automatic, I havent checked the chip yet, previous owner said it was a motorvation chip? I have never heard of them. Is there a way to test the module, maybe put a test light on one of the output wires?

 

sorry man, it's a bit above my knowledge at that point. Hopefully others can help ya . I myself would put back in the stock chip and start from that

 

I am having this same exact problem on my 89 GTA. Anybody have any ideas. I am running the stock PROM. Just replaced Fuel Pump and Filter. Getting good fuel pressure, but will not start. Hit it with a little starting fluid and it fires up and runs fine.

 

Hey drptop70ss just a silly question, does your pump prime when you turn the key on?? Sounds a lil like the issue I had been having . Pump would not prime and car would not start. But if I used starting fluid it would start and continue to run. After replacing pump relay (twice), ECM, fuel pressure/ oil pressure switch, and lastly the pump itself. It all came down to something wrong with the pump relay plug, I had cleaned it before with contact cleaner till it looked very clean, but still the same outcome.. After replacing the plug and a few inches of wire the pump primes every time and starts each time after.

 

40psi with the key on/engine off = good fuel pump, Fuel pump relay, and ECM (as far as the fuel pump circuit is concerned.)
The fuel pressure should drop a few psi as the engine applies vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator, and increase as it reaches WOT.
Two possible sources for the no start are one, ECM - already mentioned, second, fuel injector flow during cranking.

Your battery may also add to the problem if it isn't properly charged, or maintaining a charge.

 

There is no cold start in '89, to clear that up.

Verify if the injectors are firing or not at start-up. Check all your grounds, unplug the MAF and try. Get your ignition modules tested. And please tell me you guys are squirting that stuff after the MAF!!

 

Curious as to how priming the engine would wake up the ECM to fire the injectors.

 

ECM should be pulsing injectors as the distributer sends reference signals...

The ECM controls the fuel pump by running it for 2 seconds every time it detects the distributer sending a spark to any plug. You can test it by loosening the distributer, and twisting it with the ignition on so it sends a spark to one of the plug wires. You should hear the fuel pump come on as you do so.

You don't need some fancy noid light either. Just get a 168 bulb (marker light / dash bezel bulb) and a holder with a length of wires off the end. Plug both ends into the injector connector ends, and watch as you crank. You should be able to see it dimly lighting up as the ECM pulses the injectors.

 

When I said that I ment it as a cold start sequence. Not a 9th injector fireing.

 

I beleive that's the order of things, so the dizzy isn't sending a reference pulse at low rpm resulting in no fuel flow while cranking, possible. would be nice if DrpTop posted the verifications Red Devil asked for. This is getting interesting.

 

I had the same problem with my '89 IROC. Ended up being a bad distributor. Plagued me for months until I finally notices that the top of the distributor(where the module and pickup coil mount)was loose on the shaft. The timing would be very erratic and it would not idle. Would start when cold, but get tougher and tougher to start the more it warmed up(as soon as it was out of cold start mode) I dropped in a reman distributor and both problems were gone ever since. Just something to check, hope this helps

 

Thanks guys, all fixed, replaced the distributor module and the car is good to go. Module looked recent but had almost no heat sink compound on it, probably overheated and burnt out.

 

Was looking for this same problem, my '89 T/A 350 automatic is doing the same thing!! I just replaced the computer, the 02 sensor, had the key reprogrammed to the computer, new starter, new fuel pump and header gaskets.... the list goes on. Two different diagnostic machines detect NO ERROR CODES! I'm bald from pulling my hair out and have been driving my '70 Camaro. Thank you Lord for creating carburetors.

Gonna go home and play with wires, I'll let you know if it is, in fact, the distributor module!

 

That is the same problem I had with mine. No codes, nothing was out of place. All sensors were new, checked EVERYTHING! Except the distributor. When I found the problem with my distributor and replaced it everything was fine.

 

i am having the exact same problem with a 305 tpi. i know the fuel pump primes before and after, i know the number 5 cylinder isn't getting anything, even when i do get the engine running with fluid (running rough). runs decent at mid to high rpm's without the cylinder, but at lower rpm's the whole engine falters very very bad and dies real quick. changed coil, distributor is brand new.. any ideas? going to change the injector this afternoon

 

83 scrambler;.. Sounds to me you have one or more injector shorting out, how many miles are on the injectors,????.. I have been told if you have around 100,000 miles on them it's best to change them anyway... I am having trouble with my 350 TPI, it will only start when I shoot ether in the plenum..then when the ether runs out it won't run.. I have fuel up to the fuel rail, and a new fuel pump..noids light up... I talked to a Pontiac GM mechanic and he said the injectors are bad about shorting out with a lot of miles or if the car has sit around a lot, which is my problem, my car has been driven less than five miles in four years...

 

not sure on the injector mileage. when the ether runs out the vehicle keeps running, but i know the number 5 injector isn't working right (or at all). i haven't had the time to pull the plenum and runner to get the fuel rails and everything apart. i also need to test the fuel pressure at the rails. i know there is a bunch, but not sure how much exactly

 

It sounds to me you need to change your injectors anyway, but I'd check your fuel pressure first too.. if it's good replace the injectors, and see then what happens.. good luck,, hey,, if you know any tricks to taking the plenum and all that stuff off let me know,, I have never pulled one before, but I'm about to, so I can change my injectors..

 

the whole intake and runner's looks incredibly simple to remove. i have not done it yet..maybe tommorow, but all you should need is a t-40 and a few sockets and screwdrivers. the runners and everything look very easy to get at

 

Not here luv! STILL won't start without a spritz of starter fluid. Here is what we've done so far:

New fuel pump, fuel filter, mass air flow sensor, ECM, ignition switch, ignition anti-theft module, distributor, cap & rotor, ignition coil, plugs, header gaskets & bolts, fuel regulator, battery, alternator, fuel injectors professionally cleaned, dealer set code for new anti-theft module. It will start with the KEY occasionally, but rarely. HELP! Save Mizm from insanity! (Whooops, too late!) Does anyone have ANY ideas???

 

It sounds like a bad fuel pump. I just did a fuel pump in my friends 91 chevy truck. It would start run and it would die. We hooked up a fuel pressure gauge inline and you could see the pressure drop and it would die.I hooked the gauge in fron t of the fuel filter and it would hold pressure. My last test before we stopped working on it for the night was to see if it would stay running off starting fluid, I figured if it did then we would have a fuel delivery problem some where. The pump is a carter and less than a year old. My friend kept saying its the fuel pump, they had a bad batch of them. My friend doesnt work on cars, I didnt want to replace a pump without trouble shooting.
well againg I sprayed starting fluid to keep it running and it stayed running.
we replace the pump and it fixed the problem.
Thanks Randy

 

MizM, sounds like a fuel pump power problem. Check for voltage going to the pump during cranking. Check the relay for proper function. Check the (redundant - it's a backup to the fuel pump relay) oil pressure switch.

I'm guessing that cranking alone isn't getting quite enough oil pressure for your oil pressure switch, AND you have a failed fuel pump relay (or connection to it). Once the starter fluid gets the RPMs high enough to build better pressure to trip the oil pressure switch, it goes.