I have a 1991 z28 1le 350, it has k&n filters and thats it.
Im wanting to upgrade hp and would like to know what you think would be the smartest first mod. I got the car about a month ago and it is completely stock, i have plans to make it fast as it is already good looking.
thanx

 

Catback exhaust and headers.

 

yeah thats kinda what i was thinking, but was interested in the fastchip or others.

 

How much $ you got?

Once you start modding, it is addicting!

Stay away from the chips, go with the headers and exhaust.

 

i got around 600$ to spend right now

 

underdrive pulleys, good tune-up, drill holes in the air box below the filters, 180 degree thermostat, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, cut the dam out of your plenum. You will still have some left.

 

Don't waste money on underdrive pulleys, chips, or fuel pressure regulators. Buy the headers and cat-back (this will cost you about $600), then CUT the baffles out of the air box (the piece that your air filters sit in, you will have to remove it to do this) and port the plenum.

 

I looked at getting dual exhaust today and was told by several local shops that you can not run true dual exhaust on the third gen due to a lack of space under the car for it. Is there any truth to this? Im sure most of you are running it....how did it fit/run under the car?

 

First decide what you want out of the car in the long run...Don't buy anything useless to a big HP engine if you think you will go that route later on. A chip will be engine specific, I advise against that as they don't do much (off the shelf chips that is). Buy some decent used 1 3/4" primary headers and a good cat back, easily under 600 dollars there, do the free mods such as TB bypass and plenum porting... Get an airfoil and give it a good tune up...
Gears are also a great bang for the buck item...
Just my 2 cents...


Jason

 

Best first mod?

Find a used cheapie laptop and buy TunerCat or use TunerPro and leanr how to tune.

There is mileage and power to be had.

Plus you can optimixze everything as you go.

later
Jeremy

 

torque converter... 2400-2800 stall. and 3.23-3.42 gears if you dont already have them

and exhaust/ headers back.

those few mods are the best bang for your buck.

 

im probably going to get a catback 3' exhaust tomorrow. it will cost 430$ and includes two large crome tips and labor. I will do headers later when i get the money.
is this an alright price and a good idea?
please lmk what you think.
thanx

 

How many miles are on the car? Change things that could give you problems first. I just did the following to my 95k mi Formula 350, that probably had all the original stuff and ran like a dog, when I got it, but now screams
1.Mobil 1 oil & filter
2.AC rapid fire plugs, 02, 160 stat, fuel filter,& pcv valve
3.MSD 8.5 wires, blaster coil, cap&rotor.
4.8 degrees timing
5.t-body bypass
6.K&N cold air.
fuel pressure is 49psi, so I'm not rushing to get a regulator. Check your's, if it's below 47psi, get an adjustable one and raise it to 49-50psi,I spent about $350 total so far, and my next set of mods are
7.SLP flowbooster-$40
8.port plenum-$16(gaskets)
9.March power and amp underdrive pulley's-$60
then SLP catback, dual carsound cats, and custom chip to round it out. I'm puttin a GMPP crate motor and T56, after, so I'm not going to mess with headers, and trans right now, but If I were you, I'd put money toward a new trans(if it's original) before I put headers on(don't want to be stranded from a blown trans, with a nice shiny set of headers on do you?)BTW, $430 sounds alittle expensive for a catback, unless it's all stainless, what kind is it?

 

Hack up a 1LE? Aren't they worth more stock - provided that is a consideration anyway....

 

well im not really wanting to sell the car. And you are saying to get rid of the 4 wheel dics, extra thick strut, change the shocks, and put air conditioning in it to make it stock? what good would that do for me?

 

[quote=F&Ybodlover]How many miles are on the car? Change things that could give you problems first. I just did the following to my 95k mi Formula 350, that probably had all the original stuff and ran like a dog, when I got it, but now screams
1.Mobil 1 oil & filter
2.AC rapid fire plugs, 02, 160 stat, fuel filter,& pcv valve
3.MSD 8.5 wires, blaster coil, cap&rotor.
4.8 degrees timing
5.t-body bypass
6.K&N cold air.
fuel pressure is 49psi, so I'm not rushing to get a regulator. Check your's, if it's below 47psi, get an adjustable one and raise it to 49-50psi,I spent about $350 total so far, and my next set of mods are
7.SLP flowbooster-$40
8.port plenum-$16(gaskets)
9.March power and amp underdrive pulley's-$60
then SLP catback, dual carsound cats, and custom chip to round it out. I'm puttin a GMPP crate motor and T56, after, so I'm not going to mess with headers, and trans right now, but If I were you, I'd put money toward a new trans(if it's original) before I put headers on(don't want to be stranded from a blown trans, with a nice shiny set of headers on do you?)BTW, $430 sounds alittle expensive for a catback, unless it's all stainless, what kind is it?[/quote=F&Ybodlover]

well my car has 68k miles on it, and i will look in to the mods you gave me.
but the exhaust has stainless steel tips and im not sure about the rest. w/o
the tips it is 350$ but looks better with them do you think it sounds ok? But why were you saying invest in a tranny first? you think it will go bad soon?
thanx for your help.

 

[quote=blackz281le][quote=F&Ybodlover]How many miles are on the car? Change things that could give you problems first. I just did the following to my 95k mi Formula 350, that probably had all the original stuff and ran like a dog, when I got it, but now screams
1.Mobil 1 oil & filter
2.AC rapid fire plugs, 02, 160 stat, fuel filter,& pcv valve
3.MSD 8.5 wires, blaster coil, cap&rotor.
4.8 degrees timing
5.t-body bypass
6.K&N cold air.
fuel pressure is 49psi, so I'm not rushing to get a regulator. Check your's, if it's below 47psi, get an adjustable one and raise it to 49-50psi,I spent about $350 total so far, and my next set of mods are
7.SLP flowbooster-$40
8.port plenum-$16(gaskets)
9.March power and amp underdrive pulley's-$60
then SLP catback, dual carsound cats, and custom chip to round it out. I'm puttin a GMPP crate motor and T56, after, so I'm not going to mess with headers, and trans right now, but If I were you, I'd put money toward a new trans(if it's original) before I put headers on(don't want to be stranded from a blown trans, with a nice shiny set of headers on do you?)BTW, $430 sounds alittle expensive for a catback, unless it's all stainless, what kind is it?[/quote=F&Ybodlover]

well my car has 68k miles on it, and i will look in to the mods you gave me.
but the exhaust has stainless steel tips and im not sure about the rest. w/o
the tips it is 350$ but looks better with them do you think it sounds ok? But why were you saying invest in a tranny first? you think it will go bad soon?
thanx for your help.

 

dude you should stop back talking all these guys and listen to what they have to say. He wasn't saying to turn your 1le into a non-1le, he was saying that you might want to think first before you start modding it because stock 1le's can go for quite a bit of money. but its your car do what you want. Everyone will tell you the same thing; exhaust, headers, tune, and free mods. Also yes the T-5 transmission (manual) which is what you have has been known to be somewhat of a weak link, but with the few mods you're doing you won't have to worry about it for a while. Also advance the timing.

 

If you really want a catback, I'd go with the Hooker, PN 16823HKR, $270 from Sumitt or Jegs. I'ts 3 inch, not to loud, and has dual/dual chrome tips like a 4th gen T/A which I think look I'd still tune it up first before I invested in an exhaust. As far as the headers they are a real PITA to install on these cars, and are an expense

 

I was only wondering what he was talking about, how was i back talking?
but my car is actually auto so how are those?
the timing has already been advanced and it has b@m shifter.
so you think my car will be worth less if i start modding it.
thanx

 

I think it's an auto, unless someone stuck a 5spd behind that 350.

 

sorry my bad i just saw him say the tranny was weak an immediately thought of the t-5. never the less the 700r4 will suit your needs. have the hooker exhaust and i love it!!! has a deep rumble thats not to loud at anything but WOT but when you do got WOT it screams, plus i saw an article in chevy high performance that it is a zero horse loss exhaust up to 350 hp.

 

im sorry but i completely read the message wrong. my fault.
now i see what you were saying.
i think the 350 1le came with auto because last owner said it wasnt
changed.

 

[quote=blackz281le][quote=blackz281le]Unless you have unlimited funds, I'd put $ toward rebuilding/replaceing it with a stronger unit, before you start doing serious/expensive mods, that way if some thing does happen, your covered. Being a 16 year old 70k mi trans, it could give you problems tomorrow, or next year, but once you start adding power it will give you problems sooner than later.

 

I've seen the hold up to around 300 horse with just a corvette servo and a shift kit, but it is true they do go out. You might want to be mindfull of that but i don't think it is worth dumping money into right this second. And plus it sounds like you would have someone else do the takeout and installation, that combined with a performance rebuild is going to cost you a pretty penny. Just have the filter and fluid changed if they haven't been for a while, but do not i repeat do not have it flushed it can break things up an give you way more problems than you bargained for.

 

yeah i think that would be a good idea.
my tranny has like a 1 sec. hesitation when you give it gas.
could that be due to wear?
the last owner said it was set like that for racing.
lmk what you think.
thanx

 

do you have a torque converter?
----------
I know you have a troque converter. I mean do you have a higher stall torque converter?

 

im not really sure, is there a way you can tell?

 

The only way I'm aware of finding your true stall speed without a trans brake is to stop your car, open the throttle fully, and watch your tach to see what RPM you launch at. If you just hold your brake to check your stall speed, the car will move before you actually reach it.

 

Hope your transmount is intact if you try this.

 

so you are saying to stop, and while in drive stomp on the gas and see how high the rpms get until my car starts to go? ive done it a few times on the streets and the tire just burn rubber. so do you think its a worn tranny or actually meant for somthing?

 

Check to see what the actual RPM is when the tires start to spin. If it happens at 2000 or more RPM, you probally have a high stall converter, which is a common item for a race setup. If they are spinning begining at a lower RPM than you probally have a stock converter. If you have a stock converter ant your tranny is hesitating like that, there may in fact be worn componants. Thats something I'll let another member address as I am not confident in my knowledge of the inner workings of a tranny.