just a warning, this is pretty much just a rant, sorry in advance

i started installing my cam today and the plan is to yank the whole motor out so i can take care of a few things while im at it. so im going along just fine no real problems and i go to pull off the power steering pump and i stripped out the freakin torx screw. so that pissed me off, and i had to go borrow a bolt extractor set. i get that, drill a whole, start to tap the extractor in with a hammer and the damn thing breaks. at which point i proceed to throw a 5/8" wrech across my yard and came within 6 inches of breaking a neighbors window why in the world did they decide to use those stupid torx screws? i dont know how many of those things ive stripped working on the car. slowly im getting them all replaced with normal bolts....but its just a pain in the butt...

 

Take your time, use PB blaster and let it soak. They are old cars and being from GM really has nothing to do with it...a normal socket on a rusted 10mm bolt would have prolly been the same as using a torx socket on a rusted torx bolt...make sure you have the exact size torx, some are close but not exact make sure that wasnt your problem.

Good luck.

On a side note, you live and learn...i learned the hard way working on a rusted '89 RS suspension...its NOT fun. Fuel lines, brake lines, tranny cooler lines all kinked on me. My '92 on the other hand that was garaged and no rust underneath hasnt gave me a problem...

Old cars suck.

 

I will never use a bolt extractor again. Ever. Once you break it off it's damn near impossible to drill out the hardened steel.

 

torx bolts are the worst ever

 

i know its doesnt have anything to do with being GM, but i had to blame it on someone looks like im just gonna pull the motor with the power steering pump still attached

 

It helps immensely to use a proper Torx bit, instead of the Asian imitations. Penetrating oil, heat, and patience are also good tools. GM selected Torx drives not because they are worse than hex cap screws or HWH or SEMS, and certainly did not choose them because they were cheaper. The engineers designing the assembly also didn't expect people working on them with tools which almost fit the lobe pattern correctly and nearly match the metallurgy of the original drivers' bits.

If you ever look at a semitrailer uncoupled, study the pin which engages the fifth wheel receiver. It is so small you'll be amazed that it can take a constant pounding of an 80,000 pound trailer (in states which allow 100K plus GVW) in all directions, and even hold the tractor and trailer together in a nasty rollover crash, and not let go. These aren't made in asian exporter factories either. Use the same kind of metallurgy for your Torx and other driver bits (like Robertson, clutch tip, tri-wing, etcetera) and you will minimize this kind of problem. Cheap out on your tools, and you'll get to buy lots more fancy other tools like left-hand twist drills, extractors, E-Z Outs, chisels, and that kind of thing.

 

When I took the TPI base off of my motor, I ended up having to drill a torx bit out, pulling the intake and getting the rest of it out with a set of vise grips (it was previously in a spot I couldn't get to with vise grips) I twisted off two torx bits trying to get it out, and the "points" in the head were twisted as well. It was the right torx bit (I've done the whole "wrong bit" thing before, another problem with torx IMO) It may have been a cheap asian bit, but the BOLT didn't hold up either. I've rounded the corners of some bolts off with open end wrenches before, but have never ever thrashed a bolt with a box end/socket like that. When the TPI setup goes in, unless there's a bolt that I'm concerned with clearancing in the future I'm going to put in hex headed bolts.
My theory (for what it is) that GM used torx because the head shape would feed easier through an assembly machine. Nice uniformly round heads, you can put them in a track with no additional equipment since they don't use the side walls. If you look at the shape of the head, the top is smoothed over and the botom corner is beveled even.

 

vaders right, as usual, i was probably using a bit that was just a slightly too small. but its a craftsman bit and i trusted it which was probably my first mistake.

on a good note, the motor is now out of the car, heads are off, and im waiting on a harmonic balancer puller to finish up the rest.

 

Use Craftsman torz bits at the least.

Spend the $$$$ for Snap Ons if you can, they are worth it.

I wore them out working in the auto field before I ever tore one up.

Everythign else will break or twist.

That aside whoever designed torx, safety torx and torx plus needs to be taken and beaten and as he heals taken and beaten again for all eternity. Little horse dragging thrown in would be nice too.

later
Jeremy

 

pulled the oil pan off and im not too happy about this

 

Well, that's not pretty. You should see a doctor about that...

Was that crap in the pan? Is that first photo the front edge of the oil pan? YUCK!

Looks like you may want to dig a little deeper before sliding the engine back in place.

If I see him, I'll warn him. The guy's name is (was?) Hnedershot. I used to live about half a block from him when we both worked in the same TFS plant. He was a product and applications engineer. He was involved in (but not directly responsible for) PoziDrive and Orlo bolts, too.

 

yep it was in the pan, and yes thats a picture of the pan, there was a lot of glare though its not as bad as that looks. but, there are more chunks of metal that i hear falling as i turn the motor over on the stand. that chunk is magnetic, so im guessing its either piston or bearing