Having spent weeks reading this forum , i have finally prepared my order list for summit.

The car is a stock '87 iroc with a stock L98 . its been stood up for 1.5 years but runs superb ( only 49,000 km's )

I have already got hedman headers / Y-pipe and hooker aerochamber cat back system along with electric cutouts in place of the Cat .the air box has been modified and also i have been the TB by pass. the vehicle has been flushed , oil / coolant / transmission / power steering ,and now I'm ordering a few parts to wake the car up a bit as well as a few servicing items,. I also have brought a MSD 6A ignition and blaster coil from another source

I've got about £800 , so about $1500 , to spend and this is the list i have come up with



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ACF-R45TS Spark Plug, AC Delco, Nickel Alloy, Resistor, Ford/GM/Lincoln/Mercury/Mopar, Each $2.95 Today

BBK-1598 Pulley Kit, Serpentine, Aluminum, Polished, Chevy/GMC/Pontiac, F-Body, Kit $119.88 Today

BMM-70415 Torque Converter, Holeshot 2400, Chevy, 700R-4/200-4R, Each $339.95 Today

CCA-1418-16 Rocker Arms, Stud Mount, Roller Tip, Steel, 1.6 Ratio, Fits 3/8 in. Stud, Chevy, Small Block, Set of 16 $191.95 Today

CRN-255-2407 Spark Plug Wires, FireWire, Reactive Core, 8.5mm., Black, 90 Degree Boots, Universal, L4/V4, Set $56.69 11-17

FRM-G3727 Fuel Filter, Asuna/GM/Isuzu/Jaguar/Land Rover, Passenger Car/Pickup/SUV/Van, Each $9.95 Today

JET-10170 Thermostat, Powertech, 180 Degree, High-Flow, Stainless Steel, Each $13.69 Today

KNN-33-2008-1 Air Filter Element, Filtercharger, Rectangular, Cotton Gauze, Red, Chevy, Camaro, Each $25.69 Today

MSD-8406 Cap and Rotor, Red, Male/HEI, Brass Terminals, Screw-Down, Buick/Cadillac/Chevy/GMC/Oldsmobile/Pontiac, Kit $26.88 Today

SLE-22100 TPI Air Foil, Aluminum, Natural, Chevy/GMC/Pontiac, Camaro/Corvette/Impala/Syclone/Typhoon/Firebird, Each $36.95 Today

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Can you think of anything else i should be replacing , given the fact the car has been stood up for so long ??? or , although i have researched my parts , would you recommend any other parts in place of my chosen list , like for instance i was unsure of wether to go for the B&M holeshot or the T.C.I breakaway stall ??

I'm on the hunt for a set of second hand runners and am going to port the base and plenum to match.

I am also budgeting for a chip and was planning on using this guy

PCMforless.com

any experiences ?

any input would be gratefully appreciated

Craig

 

i have a spare set of runners and an inlet if you still need 'em. im in se london. is that near you?

 

no air foil, no B&M, get a 160 degree thermostat if you want to keep the engine cooler, fuel filter should be changed anyway due to the age of the car. i would probably get the rest, but maybe get better plugs, like iridiums, that way it will finish your electrical. also get a blaster coil to finish your electrical off, they help. this is waht i have been hearing the guys talkin about on the site. im currently building up my l98, and these guys on the forum bascly told me this.

 

looks good to me. if you get the converter go with a 2800 or more. also you could look into an adjustable fuel presure reg.

 

Dont run cooler than a 180 t-stat.

160 is too cold and will affect your vehicles operating parameters without a decent bit of custom tuning.

Get into burning your own proms to take advantage of what u already have. Check out the DIY Prom board here for tons of info

Dont waste money on fancy plugs, simply run the correct delcos for your car.

Learn to maximize what you have.

Make the car hook and practice launching it.

Good tires are decent bang for the buck and your car will hook instead of spin.

An excellent converter would be the base Vigilante([precision industries) its rated at 2600 rpm behind a TPI 350 and is a very effiecient converter.

later
Jeremy

 

unless you did this on purpose you need 2 air filters not just one lol

 

Is it a good idea to throw a higher stall convertor on a stock tranny or one that isn't built for it? Won't it shorten the life of your tranny? I too, would like to do a convertor, but I don't want to kill my tranny? It seems like a solid .5 second in the quarter mile, from what I have been reading.

TIA, Nick.

 

because you have headers and the plugs are a pain get the accell shorty header plug

listen to 3.8 and do not get a 160 thermo car will not be able to go into closed loop

dont get the pulley kit, our serp set up hates that junk

dont get that thermo just go to the part store and pay less than half

no convertor unless you go with a bigger cam, its not worth it

with some of that money buy the parts that break and cause major problems

ign module
relays- all of them
all the vaccuum hoses
trans fluid
diff fluid

buy some upper plenuem gaskets and do the port work that is recommended by this site

buy some sub frame connectors!!!!!

 

If you're looking for runners get the MRG-146 gaskets or a similar large runner gasket, and some intake manifold gaskets that way you've got em when you port.
Another thing is I'd also get a BIG cooler for your trans, this is mandatory if you're adding stall IMHO. Changing the converter won't hurt anything however you're probably gonna make more heat when you do, and besides that sourcing a kit for a rebuild in the UK won't be near as cheap and easy as it is in the states, not to mention a competent person to build it.

 

how ever i had my tranny re-build and a new converter done at a place called alders automatics near the south cost hear in the uk. i cant recomend them enough!!

 

if you add a higher stall converter, just be sure to add a good tranny cooler.

 

we got coolers on TAs right.. never really bothered to look

 

We have tranny coolers inside the radiator. He is talking about putting a external tranny cooler on in addition to the stocker. Pretty easy to install and cheap too, $60 - $80(B&M). -Nick.

 

oh snap.. yea i kinda looked when i got the car.. but all i saw was my ac rad, and the rad.. il probably have to read up on this

 

Take a look at the passenger side of the radiator. You will see two metal lines running to it. That is the side that holds the stock radiator cooler. To install a aftermarket cooler in conjuction to the stock cooler it is very simple. You just have to unhook one of those metal lines. Then mount the aftermarket cooler(infront of the radiator), run the hose to and from it, connect everything accordingly, check fluid level and your done. 30 - 60 minutes tops. OK, back to topic. -Nick.

 

thx dude.. ok one more thing...i want to put the after amrket on down more... thats possible right?

 

I would do a search. I haven't put one on a third gen before. So, hard to say where the best spot is for maximum air flow. I am sure right above the air dam attached to the front of the radiator is your only option. -Nick.